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glow plug tool


J.N.
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tubeI need to make up a glow plug removal tool due to choosing a model of glow engine that places the glow plug very close to the fire wall. I dare not remove anymore of the woodwork in the engine bay and by making up a section of hexagonal tube I will be able to remove the plug without having to first remove the engine. I am trying to source a length of hexagonal tube with an outside across flats width of 10mm and an internal across flats width of 8mm. The attached photo of the end of a glow plug tool is an example of what is needed. If all else fails I could buy a section of 8mm across flat width hexagon solid bar ( which is readily available) and use is as a former to hammer the glow plug tool around it. However, I much prefer to use hexagonal tube and cut to size but I have not had any luck in sourcing a suitable piece of steel hexagonal tubing .

 

Does anyone know where I can buy a small length of steel hexagonal tube as above, or a full length fully formed box spanner, 10mm outside, 8mm inside.

 

Edited By J.N. on 31/10/2015 15:25:17

Edited By J.N. on 31/10/2015 15:26:34

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Why not use an ordinary short tubular plug spanner and insert a rod to lengthen it? Obviously you remove the existing tommy bar and replace it with a short piece of steel to rivet plug spanner to extension rod.

If the problem is picking the plug out after unscrewing then a ' pearl catcher' or 'pickup tool' ( Maplins, Proops etc ) with 3 wire prongs will pick up and even start a screw thread very easily.

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p1000601.jpgPosted by J.N. on 31/10/2015 15:23:57:

tubeI need to make up a glow plug removal tool due to choosing a model of glow engine that places the glow plug very close to the fire wall. I dare not remove anymore of the woodwork in the engine bay and by making up a section of hexagonal tube I will be able to remove the plug without having to first remove the engine. I am trying to source a length of hexagonal tube with an outside across flats width of 10mm and an internal across flats width of 8mm. The attached photo of the end of a glow plug tool is an example of what is needed. If all else fails I could buy a section of 8mm across flat width hexagon solid bar ( which is readily available) and use is as a former to hammer the glow plug tool around it. However, I much prefer to use hexagonal tube and cut to size but I have not had any luck in sourcing a suitable piece of steel hexagonal tubing .

Does anyone know where I can buy a small length of steel hexagonal tube as above, or a full length fully formed box spanner, 10mm outside, 8mm inside.

Thanks, I have resubmitted with a photo, a photo is worth a thousand words. As you can see there is not much room to play around with, around 18mm. If I can make up a section of tubing to slip over the plug I can then use an open ended spanner to unscrew the plug. I agree that it may be possible to use a tommy bar but it would not be able to pass through the tube due to fouling the plug.

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OK I see the problem now.

There might be enough clearnce for a normal 1/4 drive socket. And sets are so cheap that the 8mm one could be hacked about to shorten and flats for the spanner could be filed on the outside if there is enough metal.   Some sets of sockets come with a serrated disk about 1 inch dia with a square  hole which could have a bit of 1/4 steel inserted in order to drive sockets in tight places -  could work here.

A tube could be forced into a hexagon fit by using a 3 jaw chuck to crush it onto an allen key. Brutal but might work.

My worry would be that if the spanner used is not concentric with the thread then there is a high probability of crossthreading and possibly wrecking the engine. Therefore hacking the model about might be the safer option. But do you change plugs that often -I found they lasted for years.

Edited By kc on 31/10/2015 16:45:39

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Cut the existing box spanner down to the longest stub that will fit in place with some clearance, cut a vertical slot into it about 5 - 10mm long by 2mm clearance wide. Now use whatever metal rod/tube you have to hand, drill one end near the tip to take a 2mm hard rod (piano wire or similar), at the other end drill for a tommy bar handle. Use like a universal joint, which in effect is what it is.

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Personally I would buy some aluminium tube. Make a suitable hole and epoxy the tube in place to all the long plug spanner to go down to the plug.

From your photo there does not seem to be any reason not to do this. All the loads etc are being taken a long way from the edge of that former. There is almost no strees in the area.

What little weekenss you create will be taken up with the epoxied in tube.

Edited By Peter Miller on 31/10/2015 19:10:07

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How often do you change glow plug ? ? If a NiMh cell is use to heat it it should last for ages ; as it should if a decent power panel is used . The fuel tube pushed over the centerpost works well and allows you to spin it in and yo will only need a modified plug spaner to nip it up . Glow plugs dont have to be torqued up , thats how threads get stripped . just nip it up gently run the engine until warm and nip it up agian .The box spanner you show in the PIC could be easily adapted in a couple of minutes with a hack saw and a file to make an appropriate spanner. Most glow plugs are blown or damaged by over powering them or running the engine too lean . They only need to be heated to a dull red to start an engine which a NiMh is more than capable of. Some power panels on the market are built down to a price these days and its wise to test fit a plug and adjust the panel to give a dull red then mark the meter with market pen . That way you won't turn the power up too far and damage the element. Finally fit decent glow plugs. OS or YS fs plugs are good quality but a little dearer. Remember by cheap , buy twice.

Edited By Engine Doctor on 01/11/2015 10:47:55

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