AVC Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 Salut ChrisI'm still considering to make a build fuselage, and I may use a design similar to the front side of yours for the ply doubler...I'll try to draf something and post it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Thank you for your visit, Peter. You are totally right of course, but this is just a 'sawing' pattern and the triangles will be ended with holes when it comes to sawing (just like the 'slimming' holes & Velcro holes I created for my battery bottom plate). In a former life, with race cars, when Lexan or Perspex windshield or windows started to show a 'fatigue' crack, we used to stop it by drilling a small hole at the end of it. Thanks again for your constructive remark Cheers Chris BRU - BE / CTR Crack control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 I think you will have a weak point here - at the intersection of the 3 triangles Not sure what to suggest, but I would ovalise the rear triange and leave a bigger gap. Is that flat plate the battery tray? Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Thank you for visiting Martyn & for your sound advice. You are totally right when looking at the drawing but this is just a 'sawing sketch' I drew. Each 'triangle' of the sides will be rounded at their corners. In fact my intention is to drill a 6mm hole at each corner and then sawing in between. So, when projecting that to my sketch, I'm measuring 20mm of ply behind F4. That rear triangle must also leave enough 'meat' for the servo bearers & the wing bolts plate assembly. Yes, the horizontal flat plate is the battery bottom butting against F4 at the rear of it. Are you reassured with my explanation or am I still sitting in the dark part of the tunnel here? Please advice, Martyn. Cheers & thanks Chris BRU BE / CTR Triangle Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Should be fine with the radii etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Thank you for answering, Peter. Here is a visualization of the location of the 'holes' (radii) for each triangle to be cut out. Cheers Chris BRU - BE / CTR Yellow Holes Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Er....looks the same to me Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 I understand your point about the yellow dots, but I still think that there is significant point of failure at the apex (above the wing) of the right hand triangle. If you want to use lite ply, then I would suggest leave the area from about 30mm to the rear of F6 to the nose solid sheet and cut lightening holes in the sides behind F6 to just in front of the tailplane. However, I would stick to theplan. The model is quite short coupled and you will not save much weight but you are adding a lot of risk Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 I'm not really sure that I'm understanding quite well, Martyn. I'm a bit lost now. Sorry for this. In English, 'apex' does mean the 'top', the 'highest point', isn't it??? Is that right? If that's correct and if you are talking about the the 'highest' (and most to the right) yellow spot (hole) of the drawing, that one is situated at 20mm in front of the curved end of the side panel & about 22mm under that Carbon Fibre strip (6mm) running from F1 down to the tail. Also for my Hybrid Depron version, the ply is not as per plan as it is 3mm thick. If this is not what you meant, then indeed I'm still totally in the dark zone of my tunnel... I guess that I'd make a prototype cut out & show it here for some more assistance. As I need a lot of practice w/ the scrollsaw, I really don't mind starting over again. Cheers & welcome for your next comment Chris BRU - BE / CTR Stiffness Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 Sorry Chris. In this context I mean the sharpest point to the left hand side of the triangle. Just above the wing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 ooh, sorry Martyn. Language barrier on my side, I'm afraid. The cut out of the triangle stops at the left yellow spot (forget about the blue triangle tip) situated 18mm higher than the wing sadle. That's also 20mm behind F4 wich is butted at the end of the battery bottom. I think when adding the proximity of the servo bearers & the wing bolts assembly, it seems (to me) that that area is robust enough. Anyway, as I said, if it doesn't seem to be like that, back to the 'pondering board' & the scrollsaw... Always welcome, Martyn Chris BRU - BE / CTR Pondering Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 ... sorry, double post... Chris BRU - BE / CTR Posts Control Edited By McG 6969 on 18/01/2016 10:45:11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Hi everybody, Finally back to the workshop today after a longer break than expected. The Cave - I really call it "De Grot" which is Flemish for "cavern" - isn’t unfortunately situated where I’m living, but it’s a good 10 minutes drive from home. In my absence, my assistant Gaston did a good job watching the premises but - due to some kind of uncontrolled mimic - he also started to experiment with Polyurethane & other chemical stuff… When I arrived, he was hiding behind some bottles & jars waiting anxiously for the forthcoming punishment. When I told him that those products were quite expensive and this would cost him his monthly bonus, he answered with a certain degree of arrogance that - I quote - : “You should be ashamed of your ignorance of contemporary progressive art. I will be selling this masterpiece for a lot more money than that stupid ‘will never fly’-hobby of yours is costing you”. End quote ... & bonus, of course… Still contemplating… Chris BRU – BE / CTR Progressive Art Control Edited By McG 6969 on 18/01/2016 19:46:41 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Hello out there, Of course Gaston is right - "More or less, dear LotH" - about the financial involvement to the modelling hobby. That’s why I’m going on experimenting, trying to dig out some cheap ways to avoid unnecessary spending as I didn’t tell the LotH so far that she would very probably have to carry the cash involvement of our forthcoming summer holidays. Following my earlier testing, I was wondering if I could color the yellowish PU easily, so I decided to give it a go by adding a few drops of universal black pigment. Just only 3 small drops really, to give it some kind of neutral grey color. A few seconds after I casted the mix in the latex mould, it suddenly started to foam up. As it apparently wasn’t intending to stop, I even had to pour some of it back very quickly in a glass jar where it went on expanding… When I tried - a lot later - to get the figurine out of the mould, it looked like it was ‘decomposing’… Well in fact, I just created my first - and surprisingly, totally black - Robo-Pierre. He really looks like a decomposing alien after been hit by one of Gaston’s never ending insane inventions… … I now keep him in a closed metal container. Trying to avoid any further implications ! Lesson learned ! … Don’t mix any universal pigment with your PU. Maybe I’m a "fudging bodger" - credits here to BEB & kc - but believe it or not, this is NOT a 'spoofy' tale… On the positive side of the experiment, with all his split components brought together, Robo-Pierre was only weighting... 12,7 g. . Maybe worth experimenting further, couldn't we think... ??? Happy testing Chris BRU - BE / CTR Pigment Experment Control Note to myself > Q: Spending less time at writing tales could fasten up the build of the lady, don't you agree? … A: SU, Chris… Edited By McG 6969 on 18/01/2016 23:05:10 Edited By McG 6969 on 18/01/2016 23:33:25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onetenor Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Hi Chris Just a quick note .Expanding polyurethane glue works well on all your materials. Gorrilla Glue is a prime example.Very strong and gap filling I would think you can buy it in Belgium I would have thought that Dutch would come fairly easily as it is so like Flemish which would think you had a smattering of. LOL I spent some time in Blankeneberghe in 1960 Had a great time working the amusements on the dyke. It has changed a lot now . Anyway good luck with the build John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 @ Onetenor I’m afraid that after 50+ years, you wouldn’t recognize much of Blankenberge nowadays. Flemish is indeed quite close to Dutch but that wasn’t of great help since I’m French native and had to learn both… Unfortunately you can’t find some Gorilla Glue in Belgium, but I’ve found some equivalent slightly expanding PU-glue locally made by Soudal. Thank you for visiting, John Cheers Chris BRU - BE / CTR PU Glue Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 Hi everybody, The copies and prints were cut out roughly and presented to the birch ply. Checking the weight with poplar ply, it was very close but the birch seems somehow more rigid. But then, I’ll very probably be wrong again. ‘Helpful’ as always, Gaston briefly proposed to make each fuselage side in a different wood quality, but suddenly disappeared behind the shelf without even waiting for an answer… I used 3M Re Mount, spraying a very thin single layer and rubber rolled it for adhesion. I hadn’t any to hand, but next time I’ll try the good old Pritt glue stick method. I’ve been also reading the Einhell manual both intensively & ‘diagonally’. I guess it’s about time now to get the scroll saw out of the box and install it in the Woodworking Department. Cheers Chris BRU – BE / CTR Woodworking Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 Hi again to all, Last night I had strange dreams involving Robo-Pierre. Needless to say that he occupied my mind with that 'foamy' experience. On the other hand, I was impressed by his ‘feather’-weight of under 13g. If I could give the figurine a more solid skin filled afterwards with expanding foam, I could probably reach a weight of about 15g, which could never be achieved with 'regular' PU casting! And I have the ‘tools’: a few layers of Boss Marine Varnish (better known in the UK as Ronseal Diamond, IIRC) with the rota-method, then some expanding PU to fill it up together with a central plug to even gain more weight… No doubt, this must become next on the testing-list. Any volunteers? Cheers Chris BRU – BE / CTR Foam Testing Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Ah you've got some wood on the bench Yep Birch ply is much stronger/rigid, as the thickness increases the weight difference do's also, lite ply has it uses though. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 Hi John, Yes, I have lots of different types of wood now (except balsa). And looking at the difference in weight, I decided to go for the stronger birch for my 'main box'. I had projected to start the scroll saw today but when I reached 'the Cave', there were electricity issues in the neighborhood. The saw proudly stands on top of the bench, ready to go... tomorrow. So, back home to play with Photoshop for the decoration of the Bella. That is, if the Lady ever gets completed, of course. Thanks for visiting Cheers Chris CTR - BE / CTR Out of Electricity Control Edited By McG 6969 on 19/01/2016 17:31:39 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Looking forward to seeing your scroll saw skills Chris. I'm new to scroll saws and find it very difficult to cut a straight line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Scroll saws take a bit of practice but once you've used it a bit and got used to it you'll use it for everything! Excessive use of the words used and use there! And there again! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Fine to read that you are new to it as well, Craig. So I'll feel less lonely this afternoon when I'll start to shiver in front of the saw. I read somewhere here to leave a millimeter or so (at the outside!) when sawing and to sand it straight afterwards to about half of the line. I'll try to achieve that then... Permagrit, here I come... @ Chris When I used to abuse with the overuse of the word "use", my teacher used to use some older used methods to prevent me misusing it... But then - of course - it was my French teacher... Cheers Chris BRU - BE / CTR Overuse Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Posted by McG 6969 on 20/01/2016 07:37:11: Fine to read that you are new to it as well, Craig. So I'll feel less lonely this afternoon when I'll start to shiver in front of the saw. I read somewhere here to leave a millimeter or so (at the outside!) when sawing and to sand it straight afterwards to about half of the line. I'll try to achieve that then... Permagrit, here I come... I shall wish you all the luck in the word then Chris. Good luck and happy scrolling. Craig -UK / CTR SCROLL COMMAND Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Hello everybody, For my first experience with the scrollsaw, I was wondering why the machine was shivering & jumping all over the place. Also why every little bit of anything was falling of the bench… ? Whatever, let’s have some wood bashed. After some time, just testing the monster, it started to behave quite ‘normally’ and I managed to have the bulkhead and a few bits sawed. Just trying to control the blade… and cutting the ‘externals’. No sanding yet at this stage. If you wonder if my Ballerina is ‘twin’ powered, the answer is NO ! I only wrongly measured the cross-mount and had to start over. Good practice anyway, they say. Lessons learned > - Beside the above mentioned wandering behavior - it really needs some rubber silent blocks - it’s a great tool. - Instead of a ‘flat’ blade, I presume a ‘round’ carbide one would be easier for sawing internal curves. - I could easily become addicted to the new monster. @ Craig > concerning the straight lines, I only take my ‘apéritif’ before dinner, not before lunch… Cheers Chris BRU – BE / CTR Monster Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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