john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 7, 2016 Author Share Posted February 7, 2016 Good bit of ply used for u/c plate, this'll be sheeted over and some triangular reinforcing fitted to inside, not a lot to do now and I've still not made my mind up how to do the cowl John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 8, 2016 Author Share Posted February 8, 2016 Not be long before I glue it together now Servos in tail, 2.6kg torque metal gear minis going in on these ply plates and bottom of fuzz sheeted up with lite ply where u/c go's. Can't fashion a balsa cowl I'm happy with so gonna have a go at glassing one John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted February 8, 2016 Share Posted February 8, 2016 Wow, it's almost finished. You'll maiden even before I decide where Ill place the servos 👌 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 9, 2016 Author Share Posted February 9, 2016 Not unless I put floats on it I won't Made a plug for my cowl, what you reckon Iris ? What effect would lowering the motor 1/2 inch have, it's a little awkward with the lecky motor, you've got the fat bit right up front ?? John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Nice cowl shape. areyou making afemale mould to make an cowl inside it. Dropping the thrust line 1/2" should notmake much notiable difference. After all it was desinged on the TLAR principle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Cowl looks great John. What did you make the plug from? M Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 Thanks Peter, I'm laying the cloth onto the plug same as Chris did, I expect i'll have a bit of sanding to do but I fancy having a go. Its the Yellow insulation board from Wickes Martyn, very easy to work. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Cheers i'll go and take a look Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 I have the first layer of cloth laid onto the plug, I think I tried to use pieces that where too big to avoid overlaps, and this made it harder than it should've been, so lesson learnt and see if I can do second layer better, no pictures you'll only laugh John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Plan out how you want to apply the pieces, in what order and where the overlaps are going to be before you mix any resin. Also cut the pieces quite accurately and avoid pointy corners, they're harder to sand away! You'll notice the cloth is stretchy in one direction and you can use this to help get around simple or complex curves. Finally keep the work area cool, it gives you more time to work the resin! Can't wait to see the photos. C'mon John, be brave. I won't laugh. P.S my first cowl was lumpier than my wifes custard, and that's really bad! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 I cut plenty small pieces, did it outside in the shed because of the smell (nice n cool). I had all the tools at hand, mixed it up carefully, wore a good mask, pit boots, donkey jacket n ear defenders and once I started I had tools n bit of allsorts stuck to myself and the plug I did the work of two men..and you can guess which two Will take a picture tomorrow, warts n all, no lighting in shed. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 Hi John, Regarding your glass clothing, I really don't want to play some 'teaching' part in here. But I was thinking that I should anyway to help you on the way as I have about 30 years of experience with composites in 'real life'. So, please allow me. 'Overlapping' & 'crossing' are the rules of strength in composite build ups. Think about how ply is obtained or even my Deply laminating procedure. You should start with cutting some pieces of glass cloth - if you have a tapered form like in the case of a cowl, just cut them as if you were building an air-balloon, next to each other - 'dry' of course without any resin/epoxy. Then, just 'paint' your mold with some resin & apply the cloth next to each other, as you have been cutting them. Apply some resin to them & try to avoid any bubbles. Let slightly cure until tacky. In the meantime prepare a second layer of 'air-balloon-cuts' and apply them starting in the middle of each first segment, thus obtaining some 'over-plying'. Alternate a potential 3rd layer the same way. Also, please don't use 'tissue' on small parts as it absorbs too much resin & weights a lot more. A 'LOT' more. Good luck, John Hakuna matata Chris BRU - BE / CTR FG Control Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 I've no problem with people who have experience offering advice Chris, i'll build some cross strips into the other layers tomorrow and I'll take it slower, I tried to cover too much at once today. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 10, 2016 Author Share Posted February 10, 2016 Covering and servos have come so I can get stuck in tomorrow, hatch retainer ended up being a dowel at the front and a plate with captive nut in and M4 bolt, can't see it, its behind Sveta John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyD Posted February 10, 2016 Share Posted February 10, 2016 i was going to use a dowel on my hatch but the motor bolts came out just the right amount so the hatch fits over them just nicely,i would like to say that i planed it that way,so i will,lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 Little bit done on mine, glued the ply on for w/bolts and started the servo box's in wing, I put some more wood on to iron to. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 Back to my cowl today, I made a right pigs ear of first attempt at glassing, but never mind it'll sand off, I laid a second layer of smaller pieces on, it looks a mess because it's dragged in places, but the shapes there so i'll carry on with it. Here it is warts n all, plenty warts John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Devcon1 Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Keep at it, you've got more patience and perseverance than me and I'm sure the final result will be worth it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 I shall John, I've plenty sandpaper John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 I like the idea of the dowel through the center/thrust line! I'm stealing that! Keep the resin and work area cool, it'll give you a little bit more time to work. For sanding I start with 60g to get the shape and get rid of the bigger lumps, then 80g to remove most of the 60g scratches. When I finished the outer glassing this time I sanded it down with 80g, 120g then 400g before melting the plug. Doing it this was meant the cowl was rigid for sanding. Looks OK so far John. At least it isn't stuck to the bench! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Right then it's question time As you can see it looks rough nothing that some sanding and filler won't put right though. So what's next step ? Fill and sand then add a coat of resin, or is resin no good without the cloth ? Will be adding some strength inside when the plugs out so don't really want to add any more cloth. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 Bit of chat about weight mine don't feel heavy, I've covering to go on but that's it apart from radio n motor etc 614g..22oz..11/2 lbish. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Cowl is looking good there. I'm still a little tempted to have a go at making a glass one. The only thing that is putting me off the the expense of all the bits needed. What weight cloth and resin are you using? Would like to try and price it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 I've no idea Craig, was just some I had from an auction, I spent £13 on resin and filler from motorist DIY, I could have managed with the small tin of fastglass as it turns out, so would have been under £10. Best bit for me is having a go, then in future you've the option when you do a scratch build John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Posted by john stones 1 on 17/02/2016 17:44:54: Right then it's question time As you can see it looks rough nothing that some sanding and filler won't put right though. So what's next step ? Fill and sand then add a coat of resin, or is resin no good without the cloth ? Will be adding some strength inside when the plugs out so don't really want to add any more cloth. John I always give it a coat of resin after sanding the lumps off. The last coat of resin will soak into any cloth exposed by sanding and seals the edges and strands. You will need to do more finish sanding after the final clothless resin coat though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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