AVC Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 I've used the diedran gauge to cut the upper spar and glue R1 and R1a Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 10, 2016 Author Share Posted January 10, 2016 And the second panel ir ready for spar webbing. I'll try to do it tonight befor bedtime... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 Well, finally I didn't do it before bed time, so more work for next weekend... I have a question about glue. I always use PVA for most of the building, but to be honest I don't bother about such or such brand, in fact I normally buy the "budget" one (the one I'm using now is asda...) Yesterday, I went to Wikes and I bought a bottle of Gorilla wood glue. I've noticed it's not white (not as white as PVA...), but it smells quite like PVA. Is it PVA? What's your experience with it?. Thanks! Edited By AVC on 11/01/2016 13:12:14 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 No idea about Gorilla glue AVC, some of mates use it, and like it, I use Wickes and buy green Evostick pva John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 Thanks John, I'll give it a try and see how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Craig Thomas Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 I've been using gorilla glue. It's supposed to be a pva. It does a good job what ever it is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator Posted January 11, 2016 Share Posted January 11, 2016 Gorilla glue is a polyurethane compound - as opposed to PVA which is a polyvinyl acetate suspension in water. Gorilla glue certain sticks well but there are two factors to bear in mind: 1. It ages badly - ie goes off in the bottle! Its seems to crystalise. So make sure its OK when you buy it and hasn't been on the shelf for ages. 2. It expands on curing. This can be useful of course - gap filling etc. - but it can also be a pain if it forces things which are a close fit apart or breaks something - and it can! I have used it for general work - but very little for aeromodelling - mainly where I do need a bit of gap filling. I much prefer aliphatics. BEB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 12, 2016 Author Share Posted January 12, 2016 Thanks Craig and BEB BEB, this is the glue I bough. I've just found it in Wickes website and apparently is PVA. Maybe the one you mention is this one? Thanks both! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Barlow Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 "Gorilla" is a brand name like "Evostik" and "Bostic" They do make a PU glue which is golden brown in colour and a PVA which I think is an off white/cream colour. As BEB said try to avoid the PU glues as they can push joints apart and be quite messy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Hi all Well, after some technical issues, the classic Ballerina is back in the stage. Not too much progresses to report. I've been working on both wing panels before joining them, the plan being to join them tonight. Here one photo of both panels, nothing really to describe, all quite standard building Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 And now the tips... I made the tips and the triangular supports. I market in the tips where the supports and the tip rib would fit, and then I glued the triangular supports Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Then I cut the tip rib, and or I'm doing something wrong, or there a mistake in the plan. When the tip rib is added, it should sit flush with the main spar's triangular support, but that's not the case... I've seen that Peter Miller didn't build the tip rib in the prototype, so there's no reference... Some photos here Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AndyD Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 ive not bothered with the tip rib on mine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Hi Andy That's an option. The original one didn't have them. Anyway I like the idea so I've modified the ti o rib to fit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 And the tip fitted to the wing. I'll keep working on it once the glue's dry. The problem is that is Sunday evening which means that until next Friday no more work...ÂÂ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted January 17, 2016 Share Posted January 17, 2016 There's a drawing error on the tip rib. It's too big by 5mm. I think the bottom one may be too small. I'm guessing another 'improvement' of Peter's original Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 Thanks Geoff, I've modified the original, incorrect, rib to suit the tip. And you're right: the bottom one is too small. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 17, 2016 Author Share Posted January 17, 2016 I couldn't help joining the wing halves before going to bed...ÂÂ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 I've drafting a build up fuselage fo r the Ballerina. The external frame could be1/4 sq spruce or maybe beechwood, whereas the cross members would be balsa of the same section. The front part would be 1/16 sheet balsa on the outer side, and 1/32 ply on the inner side, with the frame between both. The photo below shows what I've drafted so far. It's not very clear but I think it gives an idea. I know I probably won't save too much weight, but again I will enjoy building it Your comments / advices are more than welcome Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 18, 2016 Share Posted January 18, 2016 It's your build/model AVC, build it how you see it, all the different touch's people make during a M/B is a plus point for me, it all shows different ideas and techniques for future builds. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 Thanks John. I think this structure will be solid enough, so I'll probably build it that way.Hopefully next weekend I'll finish with the wing and will start with the fuse Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 Spruce!!! Beech!!!!. How big it is this going to be? More important, how heavy are you trying to make it?? Build it in hard balsa and it will handle 60 two strokes without any problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 19, 2016 Author Share Posted January 19, 2016 Thanks Peter for your comment. I have some spruce in the scrap box, and I though that balsa would not be enough , but I'll go and order some hard balsa Thanks for the advice! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted January 19, 2016 Share Posted January 19, 2016 When you have seen a KK Super 60 vintage model grossly over powered with a 2 stroke 60 being thrown around like a fun fly (There were some very strange people in that club!!) until the wings tore off you realise just how strong a built up fuselage can be, Edited By Peter Miller on 19/01/2016 09:59:15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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