Hole cutting in Liteply

[Flyer]

Hi guys,

Just about to commence winter project and am looking for best way to cut holes in 4mm liteply. I seem to recollect that there are cutters out there that should do the job, but am looking for recommendations, as I will be making a lot of holes!!!

Cheers

Ade

[bert baker]

I have used the Modelers compas cutters to good effect,, mounted in a small pillar drill.

If you take it slow it works well.

[Richard Wood]

For 4mm liteply a hole saw mounted in a pillar drill.
Protect the exit cut with scrap wood to prevent ripping.

[Piers Bowlan]

I bought a set of hole saws which I use on ply and would probably be OK on liteply too. Here is a cheap Titan set but there are many brands and sizes available. Go and have a look in a professional tool shop. This might do the job too.

Edited By Piers Bowlan on 12/10/2016 10:36:52

Edited By Piers Bowlan on 12/10/2016 10:37:28

[Bob Cotsford]

It's worth keeping an eye on Aldi/Lidl deals, they often have sets of hole saws which cover a wide range of hole sizes and which are well made.

[Martyn K]

I use a flat wood drill (from B&Q)

The trick is mark the wood on one side, get the point through and then start the main cutter until its about half way through the wood.

Then flip the sheet over and finish from the other side using the hole that the point left as a guide. Nice clean cut and crisp edges

Martyn

[Peter Miller]

I use hole saws. The trick is to cut half way through and then turn the wood over. That way you get a perfect exit with no spllnters.

[Flyer]

Thanks all,

I think I;ll use the hole saws for the larger holes, whilst the flat bits will be used for the smaller holes.

Cheers

Ade

[Matt Jones]

Gaskin Softbore is the answer.

[John Timmis]

Woodworkers Forstner bits are very good. They will cut a flat bottomed hole if necessary. Because the are guided by the outside of the bit you can cut overlapping holes easily. Best used in a pillar drill.

[Barrie Dav 2]

Flat bits will need to be very sharp to avoid tearing plywood. I have always been disappointed with the spring steel sets too.

Have a look at a set of Forstner bits they are very useful and will cut a perfectly clean hole even in plywood and they will last for years and they are not expensive. Do a Google search to see what they look like.

[Geoff S]

As both Martin and Peter said, the secret is to drill from both sides and avoid tearing as the drill/ hole cutter breaks through. I do that with all plywood and is the reason I like to drill all the holes in (say) a firewall before it's glued into the fuselage.

Geoff

[kc]

Use a scrap piece as a backing.

On large holes and especially with pillar drills beware the drill grabbing and rotating the work slashing at anything in it's way. Needs firm clamping or a bar to stop rotation.

( with pillar drills you don't have a hand on the switch like hand held drills! I suppose I had better tell you why I mention this - someone gave me a set of forstner bits as a present, so I popped one into the pillar drill to just try it on an 10inch bit of 2 x1 scrap timber, next thing I knew the wood was rotating around rapidly very near to my arm which was on the down handle. Very difficult to switch off at the drill so to switch off at the mains I had to release the down handle which was even worse as it was then rotating a bit nearer face level. I think statistics show pillar drills cause more accidents than anything even circular saws etc. I don't think I have ever used those forstner bits since...............)

[John Timmis]

There is nothing wrong with Forster bits. I taught CDT in schools for years. I have a garage full of powerful woodworking machinery.All power tools need to be treated with care & respect.It is essential that the workpiece be held securely either in a vice, with a clamp or by hand. The workpiece must always be held down firmly against the machine table. NEVER let go of the workpiece until the bit is safely out of the hole. Once you let go you are out of control.

[John Tee]

Never a good idea to use a pillar drill without the material to be drilled being held in some sort of vice. I speak from experience as does KC. there are plenty of drill press vices available. I forget the technical name.

John

[Barrie Dav 2]

I completely agree with John Timmis and others who emphasise the need to securely hold material being machined. Common sense I would have thought anyway.

[John Timmis]

Engage brain before you turn on the machine. Sometimes the work will need to be held in a machine vice, sometimes in a hand vice & sometimes the vice will need to be bolted to the table. Some times the work if of a size, shape & weight that it can be quite safely held by hand. Experience will guide you. The work must always be held firmly down on the machine table. NEVER EVER let go because you will then be out of control. One difficult opperation is drilling large holes in thin metal with a twist drill. As the drill breaks through, the workpiece often tries to screw itself up the drill bit. A vise is essential here.

To get back to the Forster bits. There is no particular problem. They are not inclined to snatch or grab the work. The downward pressure from the drill tends to press the work down until it breaks through. Don't release your hold until the bit is out of the wood. You could always fit a foot operated stop switch to your machine.

[Barrie Dav 2]

[Chris Freeman 3]

I still use an old original dremel jigsaw, I hand cut most of the parts for my Scratch built projects. Busy with a 1/4 Tripacer that I cut parts for, I did not want to build the kit that I have as I thought it could be lighter

[Flyer]

All valid points, many of which I've forgotten since my A level woodwork days.

Maybe a thread on basic safety in the workshop could be useful?

Familiarity breeds contempt as they say.

And now that there are many affordable power tools out there, we probably all should take a moment to consider the safety aspect before switching on.

Could save a few fingers that are needed for flying !!!

[David Mackay 1]

I did not read "tank cutters" although I think that is what people are talking about, obtainable from a plummers merchant. There is about seven cutters from about 18- 50mm. The tool has a pilot drill in the centre.

Mark off the wood to obtain a centre, and push the pilot hole through, and take the wood down past the first ply. Turn the wood over, and drill through to remove the centre. This way you do not damage the grain of the ply. Place wood under the material to be cut. A pistol drill can be used although there is danger to your left hand (if right handed) so G clamp the wood or you are on your way to hospital for stiches! Prevention is better than cure so take your time, and master this dicipline. Just like a lathe and the chuck key.

Well there you have it : Be safety conscious. Clamp the material to be cut. Respect the tool, and don't allow it to be hot. Slow speed will prevent the tool becoming blunt. Switch off at the plug before removing cut material from cutter. I use this on Balsa, ply up to 25mm, plastic after all it is used to cut holes in water tanks. When doing thick ply the glue blunts the tool, and as like a hacksaw blade it is replaced rather than sharpened.

I am sure you have had a lot of advice from readers so have a safe journey.

[gangster]

Although not for lite ply as asked but I will pass this on for balsa. Having cut out the ribs from 3/32 rib stock and built the wing for my hanger monkey I stood back and admired the finished wing. Suddenly the cartoon style ass ears grew. I had forgotten to cut holes for the servo wires. Having weighed up the option I made a cutter from a piece of 15mm tube grinding the sharpest edge I could on it Supporting each Rib from behind with a bit of quarter ply to prevent damage and splintering the tool went through the ribs very cleanly. This may work for light ply as well

[Mastercrashman]

Use the holesaw anticlockwise on the ply outerskins before running clockwise to prevent breakout and splintering.

Use the holesaw just anticlockwise to cut through foam.