Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Ta DD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 It's like a double act, The next Ant and Dec ???? D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Yup ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lightning 759 Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Posted by RICHARD WILLS on 10/05/2017 20:31:34: I've every intention of making one Andy , and in fact have already made all of the moulds for a 102 " prototype . Whenever I mention it to people it falls on deaf ears , so it looks like it will be a one off so far . Richard P.M sent andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 2:14 in, for me, but some lovely big twins, nicked from Peter Coxons thread....again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted May 11, 2017 Share Posted May 11, 2017 Thanks Dwain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Posted by Paul Johnson 4 on 06/05/2017 09:40:59: Well..... they are on... glue drying.... very pleased. Paul, where are the flap servos? Are the servo wells precut into the foam and covered by the veneer, or do they need cutting out? Edited By Graham Russell on 12/05/2017 19:54:10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Hi Graham I haven't decided yet where to put them but will probably try to fit them somewhere in the wheel bay/lower nacelle you could make a couple more servo trays by copying the aileron ones and fit them further inboard of the nacelle. I wojld like to keep extra holes to a minimum. I going to 'ponder' on it this weekend. Don't know what DD has thought of doing? .......DD? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 We will need to sink them in or screw them on to the retract tray, in a conversation with Richard he mentioned hot Gluing them in. I am going to try and get them into the retract tray personally. Paul may have another take on it, either way there will be enough room in the nacelles to hide them. D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 another overlap of info. LOL I asked Richard if he sold the servo trays for that very reason and his answer, in his inimitable style, was to just chuck them in the nacelle bay. D.D. Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 12/05/2017 21:28:08 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 Having said that......Depending on where the nacelle covers go to, the shorter the control rod the better, so maybe sinking them into the wing nearer the flaps would be favorite Chaps. To run the wires just cut a channel, drop the wire in and cover with balsa, then sand flush to the wing. D.D. Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 12/05/2017 21:34:53 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 I'm going to follow Richards recipie......1oz glue, 1 1/2 oz of lite ply, 1 servo screw and 1 rubber band. Place in nacelle stir gently and place in a moderate oven for 20 minutes...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 Well still contemplating flap servo but in the mean time found a use for the 2 square pieces of ply we (D.D. and me)have been dwelling over.... I also made two more from left over scrap for the flaps. I used a scalpel to cut the veneer and a Dremel to remove the foam......carefully!!! it will chew through it fast! Glued with Aliphatic wood glue. I also cut a hole for the wires into the nacelle. Again using a scalpel to cut the veneer and a Dremel with a sanding drum to cut down to the access tunnel. Why 16mm Dia?.... size of Dremel drum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 13, 2017 Share Posted May 13, 2017 A splendid solution Paul, probably the job they were meant for.......the big Man will be cursing if we have solved another one of his cryptic puzzles..... And if I may say so, your hole is very neat............ D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Not got a lot more completed as come down with a rotten cold...Sniff Sniff.... But have cut one of the wheel wells into the wing. I shortened the leg spring by 5mm to make sure the wheel didn't need me to cut into the trailing edge. I wondered how the hell I was going to get a neat job of this next challenge. Then I had an idea.... The wheels are 4" so.... I looked for something that was that diameter to use as a guide then had this idea... I put some double sided tape on the outside of a 35mm wide reel of masking tape which just happened to be 4" diameter. I removed the veneer and used to masking tape reel to slowly cut away the foam. Once deep enough I then.... yes D.D.... made my hole neat! Lined with 1/32" ply. After I had checked that the wheel fitted and worked ok with the retract. Also fitted the extra plate ready for the flap control horn. I have a plan for the servo for the flap and will share once I have fitted it. It will have to go up front on the retract plate and will run a snake back to the control horn as there is not a lot of room with the gear leg and wheel in the retracted position. You can see I have fitted the nacelle plastic cover and made some mounting blocks for the screws. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Making good progress Paul. Are the servo wells pre-cut and hidden under the obechi or do they need cutting out from scratch.. Ps hope its not man flu! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Hi Graham The access 'tunnel' is all that is cut. I used a rod to find the ends and line of direction then marked the aileron servo boxes accordingly. Try to make the veneer cutout as acurate as possible to each box to get a nice tidy fit. You might have to sand down the trailing edge side of the box lid as the underside of the wing is curved the box is not but it is not a lot. Take your time and it will be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted May 14, 2017 Share Posted May 14, 2017 Hi Paul Thank you. I think that may be a job tomorrow. That will start the wing build. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Hi Guys Am writing this from my sick bed....feeling sorry for myself and sniffing. Had a look at the nacelle as regards to the flap and found an issue due to the hinging we decided to use. This being with the hinge line at the bottom surface with the nacelle fitted stops the flap deploying further than about 5 degrees. This is because the cut line is on a plane that the flap wants to push the back part of the nacelle into. I tried cutting the lower part of the rear of the nacelle to make it allow the flaps to deploy but that looked terrible and left a gaping area with the flap up. so with sticky tape holding the rear part of the nacelle together chose a different cut line. One which would allow the nacelle rear to travel inside the front part. I got the idea after reading the JU88 forum and noticed the cut angle on the nacelle's. I took the new cut line from the trailing edge straight up and over, the corners of the rear nacelle where it meets the flap leading edge need to have a small radius on them to ensure they don't catch the wing trailing edge But now the flap can deploy ... ignore the fact that the nacelle has lifted in the photo I ran out of hands and unlike D.D.I don't have a skeleton staff to help... Edited By Paul Johnson 4 on 15/05/2017 11:34:42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Guys don't forget that when you cut out the veneer and foam needed to fit the gear and retract unit it is not necessary to line it with ply as I have. It won't be seen so the choice is yours..... I just can't help myself.... somebody pass me a tissue, me nose is running again..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Adams Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Paul: looking at the pictures I am worried that as the flap is deployed the rear nacelle will foul the retracted wheel. I am a long way behind you guys still working on the tail feathers. Very grateful for the benefit of your trail blazing & solutions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Posted by Roger Adams on 15/05/2017 11:51:37: Paul: looking at the pictures I am worried that as the flap is deployed the rear nacelle will foul the retracted wheel. Hi Roger Welcome to the 'club' Yes that will happen... but ... that also happened on the real aircraft and they were not allowed to deploy the flaps until the gear was down and locked for the same reason. They had 2 flap settings first stage was 20 degrees and second 50 degrees. I am achieving 45 degrees. what with the size of these flaps I reckon that will be loads, more like a hand brake...! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Thinking ahead a little here. If your radio doesn't let you time the flap deployment ( mine does up to 13 seconds to deploy) look at getting some flap servo's , Hobbyking do some cheap and they deploy in about 2 seconds. If you drop these huge flaps at normal servo speed mmmmm that'll be interesting eh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 15, 2017 Share Posted May 15, 2017 Well done Paul, I was gonna say slide one bit inside the other, but as I read your post it was obvious you had spotted the solution. All I would say is, maybe angle the cut back, towards the main part of the nacelle ? I should be back on the 110 soon as the moth is nearly complete. Hello there Roger. Have you been leaving your vest off again Paul ?? You know it makes sense to wear one till at least July...... D.D. Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 15/05/2017 12:29:00 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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