RICHARD WILLS Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Two extra degrees?? Forget sticker , That is a morter board and a cape . On second thoughts , you're over qualified for this job , you know very well its minimum wage Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Poor old Graham . What''s he got ? just a slight inclination to the left followed by a similar deviation to the right ? Sounds like a political manifesto . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Yeah , and then there's Paul , being all cocky and waving his twin rudders around. Should know better at his age . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Hi Guys As you are aware I am wing cutting, sanding and fixing flaps and ailerons before joining as I have only limited space. So after cutting one wing using a scalpel and retractable knife with a lot of nerves this time tried it differently. I scored the cut lines as before with a scalpel both sides but then scored a further line about 2 mm inside the piece to be removed. I removed this small sliver and made up a homemade hot wire cutter using spare wire from hobbycraft 48" of it for £3, a 9V PP3 battery and connecting wires. I used both of the laminated edges of the wing as a guide and aaaaahhh that's better knife and butter comes to mind. Scoring Wing cutting lines... Removing a small amount of veneer.... All veneer removed ready for 'THE TOOL' The TOOL... The results... So much easier and a better finish. The battery will not last long but enough to make a dozen or so cuts. The wire will not glow but is more than hot enough to do the job. Do not linger on one spot as the wire will melt a little more than you want but try it out first on a straight edge ruler on normal foam packing to get some confidence. Just keep moving is the key. Don't use anything else except a PP3 battery as you are making a direct short and anything with a bit more power could cause the wire to vaporise and burn you. Edited By Paul Johnson 4 on 28/04/2017 20:43:05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Posted by RICHARD WILLS on 28/04/2017 20:32:15: Two extra degrees?? Forget sticker , That is a morter board and a cape . On second thoughts , you're over qualified for this job , you know very well its minimum wage the story of my life.... D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Very Good idea Paul......... When I did the wheel wells for the LA7, I bought a cheapish soldering gun, the type where you can change tips and is operated with a trigger. I made a wire, like you, but in the shape of a square....It worked a treat, and you can make any shape you want in wire and just bolt it in. D.D. Edited By Dwain Dibley. on 28/04/2017 21:17:44 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Posted by RICHARD WILLS on 28/04/2017 20:37:09: Yeah , and then there's Paul , being all cocky and waving his twin rudders around. Should know better at his age . WHAT! 0oh wait sorry I thought you said udders... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Posted by RICHARD WILLS on 28/04/2017 20:34:51: Poor old Graham . What''s he got ? just a slight inclination to the left followed by a similar deviation to the right ? Sounds like a political manifesto . Sounds like me after a beer....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Good stuff on the foam cutting chaps. like Dwain , Ive been using the solder guns for foam removal . You can simply bend a new piece of wire between the electrodes to any shape you wantt for scooping out foam . Ideal for retract bays etc , You can pick those guns up on ebay for about £14 . Dont get too hung up on attacking foam veneer stuff . Remember , it requires no spars as its strength is spread across the whole item . To that end , if you mess a bit up , dont panic . Just glue in some balsa , sand it and start again. I have repaired some horribly mashed up foam wings after a crash on this basis. Much more forgiving to fix than a built up structure . Horses for courses . If you havent got time to get a solder gun , Just hold an old undercarriage wire over the gas ring in the kitchen and use that to scoop , BUT!!! Wear gloves , no , not the wife's silk ones , or washing up gloves. proper gloves . Coz it gets Blxxdy hot ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted April 28, 2017 Share Posted April 28, 2017 Posted by RICHARD WILLS on 28/04/2017 22:53:25: BUT!!! Wear gloves , no , not the wife's silk ones... Ohhhhhhhhhhhh............. but they feel sooooooooooooo Nice........ I remember when all Mother had to iron me Dads shirts, was a hot brick, ee it were reet hard back in't' day !! D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted April 29, 2017 Share Posted April 29, 2017 Well.... Soldering irons, hot wires, razor saws, hack saws, chainsaws.... I just refuse to use a Lazer.......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Well busy weekend but managed to progress a little. Have brought the second wing up to the first with the ailerons, flaps and aileron servo boxes in place. Also fitted the retract unit and mounting plates ready for fitting to the wings. This will take a little thinking of as the retract unit needs to be recessed into the lower wing surface also thinking about battery trays/fixing. How is everybody else getting on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Back on the thread. Have been a bit busy getting a few gliders ready for our liver day last Saturday.. I have now got a reasonable movement on the rudders. One problem I have is finding a way on the set it up so that I can centre up the rudders. (Give us a clue Richard). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Strangely the rudders are not very fussy . As long as they will swing from side t side ,,they will do the job . If you are struggling to align them , dont glue the little banana shaped ply horns in till last , That will give you an opportunity to do a last minute adjustment . Also , dont get too precious about the tail plane skins . If you have to cut a little window in the skin to get the the push rods , to bend them a bit or put a kink in to shorten one , then just do it . Its only wood . If I can build this thing from scratch ,, how far from the beaten path can you go ? Its easy to overthink , If you are really uncomfortable with the rudders , then why not put a micro servo under the ttail plane at each end , and drive them directly . Who would ever see them ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 2, 2017 Share Posted May 2, 2017 Nice one Paulo.....Looking Good now Mate. Paint soon ?? Graham, I used swivel links on the bell crank and Z bends on the rudder horns. I got my rudders lined up by adjusting the swivel links, and then secured with a 2mm nut and thread lock. I did this after the skins went on but I left an access hole to work through. I then patched it all up. I also cut a hole to get to the bell crank joiner piece screw. As Richard says, it's only wood, and when the covering and paint go on you will never know how much butchery went on. D.D. Like a patch work quilt......!! Holy Moley !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 Okay well here is my take on battery holder. I have put a second small bulkhead after the engine mounting plate to protect the battery from the mounting screws. I have also put a platform above this to fix the ESC to. I will make a hole to pass the battery cable to the ESC through this hole. To put the battery in horizontally will mean cutting into the wing leading edge and foam. so I opted to angle a small tray downwards to clear the wing but have a secure tray to fit the battery to. Okay the parts and sizes. If you should choose to do this check your fitting sizes to make sure nothing is too small or big but it gives you a starting point. You will need two of everything except the 4 off as there is only two per side my mistake for putting them in the picture. This is where I put the 55x65 false bulkhead to protect the battery . The battery side stays as extra support. In goes the tray and is glued to both bulkheads and the bottom of the battery cut out. Next the ESC tray.. This gives me a nice flat surface to fix the ESC to. I will put a piece of Velcro to help hold the battery secure but it's just for show here. As you can see here the battery does not interfere with the wing profile at all. You will have to remove a little of the lower wing to get the retract in but only as little as possible, more on that later. I intend to put two small angular braces from the tray sides to the rear bulkhead Perfect fit.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 3, 2017 Share Posted May 3, 2017 Good idea about the battery/screw combo Paul, I have seen a fire due to a pierced battery. Good idea re the tray too, you are on a roll tonight Buddy, I did a similar thing on my DB Baby Ace, the only difference was the tray actually slid in and out. It was located underneath the motor, so it was easier to mount the Batt, and connect it away from the prop, and then get it into the plane. I can post a pic if any one is interested, but I think for this application Paul has hit the nail squarely on the head. A nice simple solution...........Cosmic !! Gonna nick it........ Also, there seems to be plenty of airflow over the Speedo and Battery, as long as we put an exit vent in somewhere, as it's going to be under a plastic shell, what do you reckon Paulo ? Is that a 3 or 4 cell Lipo? My guess is 4 cell, as I have a couple that size knocking about.... well 4s1p 3000MAh anyway. 60Amp Speedos ?? D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 Hey DD... yup 4S 3200. Most of Richards models are designed around these. The Spitfire pulls 40 ish amps full throttle and uses the same motor prop combo so 60-70 Amp will be fine. The Airflow exit will be the wheel well as the wheels do not completely retract into the cowl/wing so there is two large exits there. Richard suggested we look at the JU88 build thread as it's along the same lines so I am going to have a re-read of that thread before deciding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 This is the ESC I was looking at link I spoilt myself with the receiver link and want a decent BEC output as when using any stabilization you need 1 1/2 times more current requirement to allow for the extra work the servos have to do. Edited By Paul Johnson 4 on 04/05/2017 07:27:26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 Hi Chaps , I like what Paul is doing with his little embellishments From the full size aircraft industry . it is natural to work very tidy , and have extraordinary attention to detail . But it is also ok to just bung things in if there is no risk . If you look at the 88 thread you will see that Adrian and I didnt bother with any battery trays , We simply chucked the batteries in the tank bay and shut the lid . As long as they dont impale themselves on a screw or similar , its fine . As Paul says , amp draw and heat generation are not a problem on the twins . They dont work that hard at scale speeds . I fly the 88 on 50amp esc s and they dont even get warm. So 60amp is ideal . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 Hey who else remembers that carry on film. Carry on up the Khyber with that rascal 'Bungditin' ? These are the little braces fitted that I was talking about... I don't know about the rest of our build clan but I am enjoying this build, for a preproduction only production run It's a damn good kit. I kept the C of G in the Fuz clear for my little 'treat myself' as it is more sensitive fitted there.. If anyone else hasn't used a 3 axis gyro before make sure they are FIRMLY mounted. AND you can turn off the stabilisation from the TX...Why I hear you ask? Well I had one come off in flight and OH BOY did it do the Fandango... I think I would have won any 3D comp with that one before I switch the stab off!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 Posted by RICHARD WILLS on 04/05/2017 09:43:04: But it is also OK to just bung things in if there is no risk . If you look at the 88 thread you will see that Adrian and I didn't bother with any battery trays , We simply chucked the batteries in the tank bay and shut the lid . I had to chuckle at that Richard.... Thanks for the info tho guys, I just checked the battery stash and I do indeed have 4 X 4 cell 3000's, which should be OK, funnily enough they also power a spitfire, the De'agostini one i bought and built off Ebay at a fraction of the magazine price ( that folks said would not fly). It is crying out for retracts, so I think another set of yours Richard later on will be the way to go possibly, cant remember the scale of it now. I was thinking of having a separate 5 cell RX battery, as I feel more comfortable with this, just remove the red wire from ESC plug and fold it back and insulate it. I am assuming speedos simply run off a Y lead to throttle channel, not mixed in TX. D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gillyg1 Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 I thought speedos was what you ware we you went "wimming" !!🏊 As in budgie smugglers.Edited By gillyg1 on 04/05/2017 11:32:34 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 Posted by Dwain Dibley. on 04/05/2017 11:13:09: I am assuming speedos simply run off a Y lead to throttle channel, not mixed in TX. D.D. SPEEDOS come on DD thought that was something you wore whilst bathing not connected a battery to! I find that just too 'electrifrying' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 SNAP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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