Fuel Proofer ?

[FlyinBrian]

I need to repaint a cowl because the paint has gone all sticky because of fuel, I am pretty sure I used Aerokote last time but it was a few years ago and I may be wrong.

What (glow) fuelproofer are people using these days?

Thanks

[Phil 9]

I used to use a top coat of clear flair spectrum paint but I am not sure if that is still available either

[Phil 9]

I think you can still buy it **LINK**

[Phil 9]

aerokote

[cymaz]

Solarfilm clearcoat might do it. It will attack some paints and plastics though

Edited By cymaz on 26/08/2017 08:48:29

[Cuban8]

The Flair fuel proofers are only listed as 'fuel resistant' and in my experience they need to be allowed to cure after application for as long as possible and somewhere dry, warm and well ventilated, it's hopeless trying to spray them in a cold and damp garage in winter. Subject them to even 5% nitro fuel or exhaust residue without allowing an absolute minimum of a fortnight for a full cure as noted above, and I find that they do go slightly tacky. Not everyone will be prepared to be so patient, but the longer you leave them, the better they perform.

I like to apply them as early as possible and allow to cure whilst fitting engine, radio and setup - very often there might be a month or two before I'm ready to run the engine - model still requires thorough cleaning between flights though. I guess that the two pack systems are superior, but you'll need spraying equipment to get a decent finish on a nice scale model, although a brush might be OK for a sport 'hack'.

[David Ovenden]

Personally I haven't found that any "one-part" fuel proofer has stood up to 10% nitro fuel. The only products that work for me have been TufKote (which is no longer available) and Aerokote both of which are 2-part resin products.

[Keith Sharples]

I have used epoxy resin recently (so far so good), I have also heard on here that Ronseal Polyurethene varnish is very good (not used it yet!).

[cymaz]

Friend of mine used to use boat varnish. Not sure of the brand though

[Brian Neasham]

I have recently used some Rustins plastic floor coating, smells just like the old tufcote, brushed on well and so far its holding up well to 5% nitro!

[Eddy Barker]

Whilst on the subject of fuel proofing, is clear dope ok for diesels. I use to use aerokote for glows. Dont want my freshly built sticks and tissue becoming useless.

Edited By Eddy Barker on 28/08/2017 10:21:08

[Martin McIntosh]

I posted similar on here a while ago. With the demise of Tufkote I tried Aerokote, rubbish, so I asked a clubmate who is a painter/decorator if he had any ideas as to what would stand up to 20% nitro. He suggested Sadolin PV67. It mixes, smells, sets the same as Tufkote and to all intents and purposes is the same product which is used on pub bar tops so that they can be used the same day. You can get it from a good decorator supplier such as Brewers. Snag is that you have to buy 1l but if you are spraying then you will need it. Can be thinned with cellulose. The best alternative is epoxy, probably much better still and can be brushed or sprayed since the setting time is very long allowing it to flow.

For WW2 I use Dulux Diamond Glaze satin which will at least resist 5% nitro.

[Denis Watkins]

Clear cote can be brushed on from the tin, having been stirred and airdried

It is fuel proof, made from synthetic resin

[Handyman]

I was given a formula some years ago wwhich sems to work well, but as has already been said, they need to be given ample time to cure and go off hard.

The formula is as follows:-

1 small tin of Ronseal Diamond Satin coat clear varnish.

White spirit, not synthetic stuff.

The ratio of mix is as follows:- 2 parts of Ronseal to one part of white spirit. So youb can lake up as little or as much as you want with these ratios.

I have used the mix to fuel proof tank bays and seems to work well, but give it time to go off properly.

Hope this helps

[brokenenglish]

Posted by Eddy Barker on 28/08/2017 10:20:31:
Whilst on the subject of fuel proofing, is clear dope ok for diesels. I use to use aerokote for glows. Dont want my freshly built sticks and tissue becoming useless.

Edited By Eddy Barker on 28/08/2017 10:21:08

Eddy, ordinary nitro-cellulose dope is 100% fuel proof against diesel fuel.

The only minor problem is that you must apply several coats.

As you know, the dope shrinks. If it's on a shrinkable base surface, i.e. tissue/silk/nylon covering on a open structure, then it shrinks the covering. However, if it's on a non-shrinkable base surface (sheet wood), the dope still shrinks, which creates "holes". Applying several coats cures the problem (at least two coats, I usually continue until I get fed up!).

[Martin McIntosh]

Just use non shrinking dope after the first coat.

[FlyinBrian]

Posted by Keith Sharples on 26/08/2017 22:06:15:

I have used epoxy resin recently (so far so good), I have also heard on here that Ronseal Polyurethene varnish is very good (not used it yet!).

Keith

Which epoxy did you use? and did you have to thin it, if so what did you use as a thinner.

Thanks

Brian

[onetenor]

I used to use Humbrol Marine Varnish for glow fuel proofer. Worked very well against Mercury and K.K. fuels.

[Denis Watkins]

Clearcote is already thinned resin, in brush or spray cans

[Stevo]

Rustin's plastic coating!

Made an old engine test stand years ago. Plastic coated it. It's had fuel spilt all over it over the years. No problem.

[Eddy Barker]

Broken English. Thanks for confirming my thoughts. Shrinking and quite a lot of thinned down coats of non shrinking. lovely gloss finish.

[2W]

I want to spray Rustins plastic coating on my Wot 4 to fuel proof it. Can anyone advise what and how much I should use to dilute it (cellulose thinners, Rustins thinners), type of spray gun to use (air brush, touch up spray gun) and air pressures to use?

William

[Denis Watkins]

Normally William, a paint brush to cover the bulkhead is all we need

Spraying the whole model just adds weight

Will it be the whole model?

Spray is usually the consistency of milk,

So 50/50 with thinners is a start

On bigger patches I just use a 0.5 in my airbrush, and 15 - 20lb pressure

But test this as the spray can dry before it hits the plane

Just turn down the pressure

Edited By Denis Watkins on 08/12/2017 11:27:45

[Chris Walby]

Denis, Sorry just for clarity "thinners" is that cellulose or Rustins thinners? Thanks

[Denis Watkins]

OK, am going along with the original post as you must have some of this stuff left over to use

Do not buy this product just for fuel proofing as it has no advantage over fuelproofer bought as such

The Rustin's is 2 part and should be used with Rustin's thinners which is not normal thinners

Otherwise

Use Cellulose varnish and cellulose thinners

But to add, I don't know anyone that would think it necessary to fuel proof a whole model