Jump to content

Superglue Removal From Canopy


Recommended Posts

Canopy fitting is one of my least favour tasks. Current job is only a small model and Canopy Formula glue just slid around too much so resorted to superglue. I always seem to get more of it somewhere else than where I want it. When it dried, horrible white marks appeared inside the canopy and a small fingerprint appeared (grrrr). I tried a cotton bud with acetone nail polish remover and at first it looked like it was working, but after 10 mins it all dried out and the marks are still there. Any suggestions please? Material behind the canopy is Solarfilm Solite. Thanks

Edited By David Cooke 1 on 24/12/2017 20:45:51

Edited By David Cooke 1 on 24/12/2017 20:46:57

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you wish to use c.a. then you need the foamie friendly stuff (odourless) which does not cause a white bloom which you can never remove. I have tried everything including so called canopy glue which turned out to be useless. I now use Deluxe Materials R/C modellers glue which sets clear and sticks to most things. It does not, however, set really hard but it does the job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If the canopy material is thick enough, superglue fingerprints can be removed using abrasives. I start by carefully scraping with a good hobby knife blade, and then finish using finer grades of emery paper and some micro-sanders -- can't find a link for them, but they're foamy sticks with surfaces of various coarseness, used to polish out blemishes in sprayed paint surfaces.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Totally agree with Allan. It's the route I would use and have used before. I recommend the Flex-I-File Flex pad intro set consisting of 5 different flex pads. They last forever and will polish your canopy back to like new condition quickly if you use them in order of coarsest to finest grit.

Flex-I-File Flex Pad Intro Set Photo

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure it will help in this case. Many years ago I repaired a pair of spectacles with superglue. The repair was sound but I got it on the lenses. Knowing you could buy a solvent I rang the Loctite help line The advisor told me not to risk it on the glasses as he was concerned for the plastic frames He advised me that water was a solvent for cyano but it would be a slow process involving one or more 24 hr soaks with a few soakings over night and scraping with the fingernail I eventually cleaned the lenses

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I had some undercarriage legs that needed some wood to make then look nicer. Tried all sorts of glues but finally used some Bathroom silicone sealer. Stuck fantastically and a bonus is that there is a bit of give as well. So think that this would also be a good use for canopies as well. However to date I have used Canopy glue that dries clear to good effect. It can tend to run a bit but that can be cleared by a damp cloth.

Cheers

Peter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi David,

Like myself, you've learned the hard way. Never use superglue for canopies. Once you've trimmed and happy with the fit of the canopy, mark around it with a pen. Mask up to the line. With a brush, apply a thin layer, 6 -10 mm wide of canopy glue (I use Deluxe Materials) to both surfaces and allow to dry until clear. Cut some short lengths of masking tape & tack them to the edge of a bench or shelf, ready for the next part. Apply a slightly thicker, even layer to just the fuselage and position the canopy. All being well, you should have hardly any excess glue to wipe away. Now secure in place with the short lengths masking tape until dry. As Peter Miller suggested, it may be necessary to use very small screws (Model Fixings) to hold it in place whilst gluing. On my Seagull RV8, it took me about 4 hours to fix the canopy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks everyone for the replies - some good info! I have a silver cutout to mask over if I decide to go that way. Yes, I tried acetone (daughter's nail polish remover) but no joy. Kicking myself as I have some double sided tape and that stuff sticks like sxxx to a blanket (as my father used to say).

Edited By David Cooke 1 on 27/12/2017 11:21:27

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Tried some so called canopy glue once, don`t remember the make, but when dry I went over the excess with a very slightly damp cloth. The thing just fell off.

I find that the big problem with many is that there is very little of a flat mating surface, the rest being point contact only. Sounds like a recipe for a mag. teach in to me by someone who has really mastered it. What do the F4C guys do?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Posted by ken anderson. on 26/12/2017 10:23:11:

hello david,too late for you now-but next time around have a go with clear silicone for fixing your canopy...fix it apply some tape to keep it in place overnight...jobs a goodin.... get a small tube from a tropical fish supplier

ken Anderson...ne...1.... silicone dept.

forget the rest---use the best yes yesyes

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is a photo of the completed model. Its a 24" Super Sixty. Its a play thing compared to the usual things. Something I read that makes a good bonding surface is (ironically) super glue. I rub a little onto balsa and it provides a good bonding surface, vecro adheres really well. I've used Canopy glue on larger models with no problems, but struggled on this little model.

p1120183.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...