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Tiger Moth Aileron Servos


Neil67
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I have a 50" Tiger Moth which I was given a while back but with no instructions. Assumed wrongly, it appears, that standard servos would fit wings for ailerons, but they don't. Help please on what servos I should fit to match covers which appear to suggest servos fitted on side. Thanks

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Hi Neil,

I'm far from an expert, but it appears indeed that your servos should be mounted on their side against the ply cover plate.

Standard servos are way OTT these days for ailerons for that size of model..

A 'mini' or even a 'micro' should be sufficient.

Preferably a metal geared 13gram with bearing should be nice.

But, you'll get 'expert' advice soon, I guess...

Cheers & keep safe

Chris

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Hi Neil,

I agree with Chris, and I have done this method on many of my models including my own 66" Tiger Moth.

Here is a photo of one such installation using a ply plate and hardwood strip

dsc09602 (1024x681).jpg

dsc09606 (1024x681).jpg

A slight variation clamping the servo in place. these are for the flaps on a Beaufighter

The servos shown are still a little OTT and I now use metal geared Turnigy or Corona 13g servos from hobbyking, good servos for little money and so far I have not had one let me down other than one which was faulty on opening the box.

Hope this helps

Regards

Robert

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A way to fix the aileron servos on their sides was explained by Sid King in one of his articles -

-he wraps the servo body tightly in 3 layers of 19mm masking tape and then epoxies the tape to the servo hatch. If necessary to change the servo then the masking tape is cut away and peeled back. He noted that the hatch needs to be firmly screwed in place.

I have not tried the method myself but it sounds good and comes from a most experienced aeromodeller.

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I use a lot of Corona 239MG ones which are side mounted, 10mm thick, cheap, 4kg and reliable. So easy to fit in almost any wing. A plate over the top on the average model is a complete waste of time in my humble opinion. I do use standard servos sometimes when the wing thickness will allow a vertical mount but never again on their side, it is just too much trouble.

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Hi Guys

I can vouch for Sid King's method, worked for me many times. I use heatshrink rather than masking tape, purely because it looks neater.

I give the plate a coat of sanding sealer, then glue the servo on with EvoStik, or Shoo Goo, which dries a little rubbery for vibration protection.

Leads me on to this.

I used to buy the plates from a company long defunct. Did post on here a while back, but no-one knew of a source.

Talking to Neil of iGull a while back, suggested these might make a good addition to his product line. He asked for dimensions of a plate, which I supplied.

Just got an e-mail back from him, linking to this. Looks a nice job.

Before anybody says 'it's only a square piece of ply, agreed, but I have neither the tools or the ability to cut the slot so it looks professional. Happy to pay for someone to do that.

Here's what one looks like in use

dscn0001#1.jpg

dscn0003#1.jpg

Cheers

Jeff

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Posted by Robert Parker on 25/07/2020 18:22:53:

Hi Neil,

I agree with Chris, and I have done this method on many of my models including my own 66" Tiger Moth.

Here is a photo of one such installation using a ply plate and hardwood strip

dsc09602 (1024x681).jpg

dsc09606 (1024x681).jpg

A slight variation clamping the servo in place. these are for the flaps on a Beaufighter

The servos shown are still a little OTT and I now use metal geared Turnigy or Corona 13g servos from hobbyking, good servos for little money and so far I have not had one let me down other than one which was faulty on opening the box.

Hope this helps

Regards

Robert

I do this on almost everything. Usually using Hitec HS85mg servos.

Then he can just screw the hatch lids to the rails, which is probably what the builder intended.

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Hi all

Geoff

Quite right, they are not the ones I wanted. They are (were) made by Radio-Active, but now distributed by Ripmax or Perkins, so available at multiple sources.

Denis

It is a simple matter to glue two blocks to a piece of ply, but as I mentioned in my post, I do not have either the skill or the equipment to machine the slots to a professional standard.

Bearing in mind these are a very visible part of the install, quite happy to pay someone to make them for me.

Nice to find a manufacturer prepared to listen to customers suggestions, and act on them. Try that with a Chinese company.

Anyway, there we are. If anyone wants to try these, now you know where to get them.

Jeff

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All you need to cut neat slots in thin ply is a drill and a Stanley knife with new blade. Drill a hole at either end ( using a guide hole in a piece of ply and a backing scrap block if you want to avoid the surface splitting ) and cut between them with a Stanley knife and straight edge. Cut thro as far as possible and then cut from the other side if necessary.

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