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Balsa Fuel Tank


Levent Suberk
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I cut parts from 2 mm sheet balsa. Fuel tank capacity is 25 cc / .85 oz. Size is 50 mm x 50 mm x 10 mm inside and 54 mm x 54 mm x 14 mm outside. I couldn't find copper or aluminum tubing, so I used a 3 mm telescopic antenna tubing. Total weight before applying epoxy is 5.0 grams / .177 oz. I applied thinned 24 hr epoxy on parts and vacuumed. Assembled box, opened fuel tubing holes and sanded the out of box. Then applied second thinned epoxy coat to inside of box and cover. After drying I glued tubings with metal epoxy and glued cover on box. Then applied two coats epoxy on out of box, last coat is metal epoxy. I think that last coat metal epoxy is a little heavy. 24 hr or 30 min thinned epoxy must be used instead of metal epoxy. Total weight is .547 oz. I have been trying it with fuel.

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Tin plate is fairly easy to work with, I think. It's thin enough to cut with scissors. It solders easily and, at this small size, wouldn't even need a big soldering iron. However, it's worth a try and I'll be interested to see if proves to be fuel leak proof. I wonder if it will survive a heavy landing?

Geoff

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Posted by Geoff S on 03/01/2021 14:12:24:

Tin plate is fairly easy to work with, I think. It's thin enough to cut with scissors. It solders easily and, at this small size, wouldn't even need a big soldering iron. However, it's worth a try and I'll be interested to see if proves to be fuel leak proof. I wonder if it will survive a heavy landing?

Geoff

Hi Geoff, it seems that there is no leak any. I will send a message after testing it with raw fuel and also with a running engine.

I think that it can survive a heavy landing, and even a crash if it is small model that uses 1/2A engines or similar size.

It look like a fibreglass tank and light.

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This idea isn't new. Balsa fuel tanks weren't rare on small CL models in the fifties. Just using plenty of dope and balsa cement works OK for a half-cc diesel. The real problem is handling, attaching and removing fuel tubing, etc.

The Aeromodeller article published with the "T-Tray" control liner plan (article available on Outerzone) gives detailed instructions, which are similar to the above, but limited to diesel fuel because of the lack of modern adhesives/finishes.

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I have suspicion that it may be prone to cracking and seepage without glass cloth internally. Also, I hope your tubing isn't externally plated brass as it is probably rather thin walled and corrosion will make it brittle fairly quickly. Interesting concept...

Edited By Martin Harris - Moderator on 03/01/2021 16:06:31

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Tin plate is very easy to use , the downside is that if used with glow fuel it rusts quite quickly and if high nitro is used it will eat/ dissolve the copper content of the brass tubing that then get brittle and pin holes appear.

I've seen balsa silencer boxes built into fusalges years ago but not fuel tanks. Interesting concept.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Posted by Rich Griff on 25/01/2021 15:03:13:

Hi levent, how did your bespoke fuel tank perform, any leaks ?

Iwhat was its final weight, and was it lighter than a tin tank ?

No leaks any in raw fuel. I didn't test it with a running engine yet.

Total weight is .547 ounces. It is a little lower than a tin plate fuel tank. Final metal epoxy add much weight. I think that two clear coats on inside and outside are enough.

I also want to try an epoxy model paint coat after applying a coat of epoxy glue to save weight, however I could't find epoxy paint in my country.

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Posted by John Stainforth on 28/01/2021 17:25:52:

Sounds a bit like a chocolate teapot to me!

The guy has been good enough to share this with us, the usefulness of his project goes beyond the actual fuel tank itself, if you don't like it scroll on, its been said on here before, "If you've got nothing good to say then say nothing"!!

angry

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