Danny Fenton Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 2 hours ago, cymaz said: When you’ve finalised the engine mount and drilled the holes, coat the whole bay in a thin layer of epoxy. Heat it with a hair drier so it runs into everywhere. Excellent fuel proof Certainly will, couple of coats of deluxe materials Aerokote is my plan ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 If you use Johns method why not drill 4 holes in from the sides to clamp the ply plates. Clamp the plates in place and drill through near the engine bolt holes, remove the plates and counter sink them then glue them and refit them with CSK M3 bolts and nuts, this will hold the ply together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 41 minutes ago, Eric Robson said: If you use Johns method why not drill 4 holes in from the sides to clamp the ply plates. Clamp the plates in place and drill through near the engine bolt holes, remove the plates and counter sink them then glue them and refit them with CSK M3 bolts and nuts, this will hold the ply together. I don't see the need for that much effort, the glue should do the trick. And I would rather glue than bolt, the shims are not very thick and will distort under point load, glue will spread that load better in my opinion. I am really grateful for your thoughts, and I hope I will always listen, but I reserve the right to do my own thing ? rightly or wrongly....... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Williams Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 Bit late I know, but I don't like wooden beam engine mounts. I would have modified it to have a normal ply firewall and used a standard glass filled nylon engine mount. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 4 minutes ago, David P Williams said: Bit late I know, but I don't like wooden beam engine mounts. I would have modified it to have a normal ply firewall and used a standard glass filled nylon engine mount. What is the reasoning David? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David P Williams Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 I've had them compress over time making the bolts loosen and I've never managed to completely fuel proof them (like down the bolt holes) so the fuel mist/spatter from the carb always seems to penetrate them eventually. Maybe just my bad workmanship though. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Cripps Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 You've got a bit of a dilemma, Danny. I agree with David's suggestion but it looks like the fuel tank can only be fitted from the front? Perhaps the solution is to mount the engine on a removable firewall, as per the H9 Carbon Cub. See below, taken from the instruction manual. The CC also has the tank mounted on a shelf attached to the rear of the firewall but I don't think that would be necessary if you go this route with the Auster. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 I appreciate what you are saying, and thanks for the comment, but it will stay as designed, there is days of work sawing the nose off like that, and I cannot see the benefit. Plenty of these have been built and flown. The mount is re-enforced as suggested, and opened up to suit the crankcase width. I cannot drill the holes until I have fixed the cowl length. I may not use the polyester cowl supplied. I looked towards the cockpit combing, this stretches over the panel to the rear of the cowl. The shape of the sides of the footwell are not accurate on the plan, and this has a knock-on to the ply combing which was not happy conforming to the compound curves. So the footwell sides were made flat right back to the door "A" posts, this is how the full size is, and means the combing,(and footwell sides) can be made from flat material. All went well after that. Once the glue was dry I removed the bands and sealed down the edges with thick CA Cheers Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 Bolt holes look to be into the meat of it Danny, It'll be fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 Thanks John, yes I think so. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 A bit academic now, but the SC70 fitted a treat. ? D.D. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 Thanks DD Is that an idle glow? Are they a good idea? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 Just a remote glow Danny, Makes life easier. D.D. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 Hit a snag this evening. If you recall the two main formers didn't align with the fus sides? Well the end result was that at the top of the cabin sides, where the wing root sits, the fus sides MUST me parallel. Any deviation and the wing roots will try to point the wings forwards or back, the piano wire joiners will stop that, but you will end up with an unsightly gap where the wing meets the fus. Hopefully I have rectified this by adding some additional 3/16 and truing the root ribs at the top of the fus so that they are parallel. Not easy to see in the picture but they are. all in harmony again..... 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 (edited) Sorry DD but another question for you. The pieces for the wing fairings were quite large but I only needed a small piece and cut most away, have I misunderstood and made a mistake? P.S. Those are pictures 201 and 202 since the build started almost a month ago, and just under 6000 views ? Cheers Danny Edited March 12, 2021 by Danny Fenton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 (edited) Looks like I did the same old Bean. D.D. Edited March 13, 2021 by Dwain Dibley. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 13, 2021 Author Share Posted March 13, 2021 Managed a few bits and bobs. I really dislike soldering piano wire, but a good iron and some silver content solder makes the task bearable. Cheers Danny 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 Tidy.. ? That's the next job on the Messerschmitt. ☹️ D.D. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Sephton 1 Posted March 13, 2021 Share Posted March 13, 2021 On 11/03/2021 at 22:54, Colin Leighfield said: I had a 1/5 share for a while in a 1946 Auster AOP6, kept in its original squadron markings, silver with yellow bands. I managed to ground-loop it at Tatenhill once, no damage fortunately! Very smooth and stable plane to fly. Always fancied making a model of it. I was told once that the famous Auster test-pilot, Ranald Porteous, said that nobody ever managed to do three consecutive good landings in an Auster. I tended to agree. I met Ranold while he was still alive and I have the greatest respect for him, but I have to disagree with his comment on Auster landings. It is a tricky aircraft, but if you use the right technique, fly within your own limitations and the limitations of the aircraft, then a good landing should result every time. ?? How do I know that... well, my wife owns an Auster, and I've yet to witness her doing a bad landing! ? ? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 Couldn't resist setting it all up to get a feel for the size, quite a big model for an 82 four stroke, but it is a Saito ? Cheers Danny 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 It's gotta be done.!! D.D. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 (edited) Those wings were a real struggle to fit, and I am not looking forward to trying to remove them again. Now I know why the wingtips are so solid!!! Edited March 14, 2021 by Danny Fenton Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 (edited) Those wing holders are good in Theory, but get loose quickly, and leave unsightly gaps at the root. I ended up with a plate and a screw, just in case. I think I said that before........Old Age showing. I'll be forgetting my thermos next. ?? Also the struts are load bearing hence why you should change out the fixings in the fuselage. D.D. Edited March 14, 2021 by Dwain Dibley. I'm an idiot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 14, 2021 Author Share Posted March 14, 2021 Thanks DD yes you did say. I thought I would give them a go and already regret it. I think I am going to cut the wings open and remove the spring steel clips and see if they fit okay with perhaps additional carbon tube as guides. And a retainer plate. I may change the whole wing mount to the method I used on my little indoor Cub, it's also how Gwynn Avenell did his big Fury. glass boards on the spars with bushed holes. A piano wire rod through from the leading edge. means the dihedral is set by struts, but it is anyway. Means I can correct the wing sweep that has crept in, only a degree or so, but very annoying and I will never be able to live with it. As you say the struts are load bearing, and I will be using brass plates, already sourced my friend ? Thanks for keeping an eye on me ? 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted March 14, 2021 Share Posted March 14, 2021 I loved Andy’s reference to my comment about Ranald Porteous and landing the Auster! He was probably tongue in cheek when he said it and after I ground-looped the AOP6 on the Tatenhill concrete runway it gave me a face-saving excuse! 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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