Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 On 06/03/2021 at 11:57, Dwain Dibley. said: It's not too late to redo Mate, in hindsight I should have had the join more over the upright too, but that was as per the plan. There is a ply doubler that covers this area anyway, so no worries really. D.D. Just spotted this one you posted a while back, you have really done well to figure this out, much of this is not on the plan! Maybe I have just been spoilt with Brian Taylor plans..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 I built the Brian Taylor Cessna, and yes, no offence DB, it's was streets ahead for info etc. D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 Do these help, s'all I got. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 10, 2021 Author Share Posted March 10, 2021 They do indeed sir, thank you. What I cannot quite see is did you taper the three side stringers into the tail. If I do that would make them very thin over the last few open bays?? The other areas where it simply says "tapered" I think I understand having seen your pics DD Remember click on the pics if you need full size/res 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted March 10, 2021 Share Posted March 10, 2021 (edited) I only took the stringers back to here if that's what you mean, then I tapered them in to the sheeting. You could take them all the way back to the rudder if you want, in hindsight. Edited March 10, 2021 by Dwain Dibley. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan p Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 Hi Danny It may not be the laser cutting, I have found on occasion that the printing of the plans is not always of the standard you would expect. Paper stretch and the quality of the printer is a factor and we do tend to assume the printed plan is gospel.!!! Keep taking the pills? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 6 minutes ago, alan p said: Hi Danny It may not be the laser cutting, I have found on occasion that the printing of the plans is not always of the standard you would expect. Paper stretch and the quality of the printer is a factor and we do tend to assume the printed plan is gospel.!!! Keep taking the pills? Thanks Alan, I know this only too well, I have been building a Brian Taylor P-51 off and on for 11 years, and the plan was really badly printed. The laser cut parts were no where near, which was the first clue. and what made me realise it was the plan was when you measured the rib outline chord it was 4mm different to the plan view of the wing. What was worse it wasn't consistent! as if the paper had slipped in the printer. I know Brian's plans are spot on, and others had built this model with the usual Taylor accuracy. It has spoiled the model for me, and is probably why I have put it away three times now over the 11 years. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Cripps Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 I think Boddo used that fuselage structure on a lot of his designs, Danny. This is the tail of my Sea Stormer which has stringers running the full length of the fuselage and then tapering onto a 1/16" sheet support under the tailplane. I broke one of the stringers while planing in the taper so added a strip of balsa behind to restore the strength. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Sephton 1 Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 (edited) On 27/02/2021 at 13:34, Danny Fenton said: Hi David, I think that you seeing a flat screen on Jacqui's Auster is an optical illusion. I think its still curved but in three sections? I hadn't noticed it until you pointed it out. Even Grangers three view shows the screen as in three pieces. Cheers Danny I can confirm that the front screen on Jaqui's Auster is flat .. it surprised me when I first saw it, too. Edited March 11, 2021 by Andy Sephton 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 27 minutes ago, Nick Cripps said: I think Boddo used that fuselage structure on a lot of his designs, Danny. This is the tail of my Sea Stormer which has stringers running the full length of the fuselage and then tapering onto a 1/16" sheet support under the tailplane. I broke one of the stringers while planing in the taper so added a strip of balsa behind to restore the strength. Thanks Nick, I sanded it too, and as suspected it is a bit weak, especially as that may be an area that will be held to retain the model. I will do as you have and add something behind. Thanks for your support much appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 (edited) When offering up the side pieces it became apparaent that more "packing" pieces were needed, one specifically is marked X here and supports the ply at the back of the window. Scoured the plan but no mention. Anyway simple matter to add some stock and sand to shape. I have included pictures here to just act as a guide should anybody take this model on and need a bit of a hint as to what goes where. Not sure if it is visible, but packing pieces are behind the upper and middle stringers where they are unsupported as Nick pointed out. The lower stringer is unsupported over a very short distance so doesn't need any help X is the additional part omitted, but it is obvious there is no support for the ply otherwise. Adding the ply sides/window surrounds, took almost all my clamps! Cheers Danny Edited March 11, 2021 by Danny Fenton 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Cripps Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 Looks good. I see the site caught me out - the bottom picture on my post was the wrong orientation and I thought I'd deleted it and replaced it with the upper picture which I'd edited. Something to be aware of... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 The sides have come out well, no gaps and nice and flat. Next was to put some shape into the area behind the firewall. The panels are basically flat I believe, so careful sanding has been done to replicate this. A quick trial of the cowl looks pretty good. The cowl is cracked, and in two parts, so will need joining and repairing. It flexes like polyester, but the scratch and sniff has been inconclusive. Cheers Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 Fitted the two bulkheads (instrument panel) and combing shaper. I accurately measured from the plan to position the mid bulkhead and made a small jig to get the panel angle as per the plan. However when the mid bulkhead was trued using a straight edge along the top of the cowl, it was clear it would need to go further to the rear. I positioned it so there was a straight line from the top of the cowl through the intermediary bulkhead to the panel. Moved on to the engine mounts, these were again cut very accurately, but a trail fit showed a slight amount of fettling was needed to get everything to fit snugly. Clamps were used profusely ? Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alan Hilton Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 Hi Danny The cowl is polyester ,glass chop is held together with silicon which desolves in polyester resin .Epoxy resin won’t desolve the silicon so it won’t work .Both resins work with woven glass mat Alan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 Okay as I have already confessed to being an electric flyer and not really do the IC thing. How would you seasoned IC peeps deal with the engine mounting rails being too narrow for the chosen engine? In the distant past I recall paxolin or aluminium adaptor plates, but the centre line of the engine is the rail face, so that wont work. I could epoxy additional wood to the insides of the rails to fill the void, as the holes are close? Suggestions?? Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 I would glue 1/8 ply under the rails to the correct width, then hardwood strips on top, decent sized washers underneath when mounting the engine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 Sorry John not with you, surely that would alter the motors height compared to the rail? The thrust line is the underside of the rails. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 5 minutes ago, Danny Fenton said: Sorry John not with you, surely that would alter the motors height compared to the rail? The thrust line is the underside of the rails. Cheers Danny Ah, it's upside down ? Ply on top of rails then. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 11, 2021 Author Share Posted March 11, 2021 Yes its an Auster, inverted engine. So add the shaded areas? Cheers Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Leighfield Posted March 11, 2021 Share Posted March 11, 2021 I had a 1/5 share for a while in a 1946 Auster AOP6, kept in its original squadron markings, silver with yellow bands. I managed to ground-loop it at Tatenhill once, no damage fortunately! Very smooth and stable plane to fly. Always fancied making a model of it. I was told once that the famous Auster test-pilot, Ranald Porteous, said that nobody ever managed to do three consecutive good landings in an Auster. I tended to agree. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 When you’ve finalised the engine mount and drilled the holes, coat the whole bay in a thin layer of epoxy. Heat it with a hair drier so it runs into everywhere. Excellent fuel proof 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Davis Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 Sorry Danny, I'm such a dyed-in-the-wool engine man that I nearly burned my house down while charging a LiPo on St Valetine's Day, but I don't understand the your phrase, "...the centre line of the engine is the rail face." I don't think that adding plywood to the inside of the engine bearers will work. Once you've drilled the mounting holes I think that the plywood will start to seperate from the original bearers but I'm willing to be proved wrong. I would probably mount the engine on a paxolin or metal plate even if it means that the thrustline is slightly altered. I doubt that you'd notice much difference with a model like the Auster, it's not a pattern ship after all. You could always shave a bit off the surface of the engine bearer if you're worried about it. Just my three pennorth, not that I'm an expert in aerodynamics of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 12, 2021 Share Posted March 12, 2021 (edited) Make an engine plate out of aluminium then recess existing bearers to take the plate. Ah, that’s basically what DD said! Edited March 12, 2021 by Ron Gray Grammar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 12, 2021 Author Share Posted March 12, 2021 Thanks for all the advice chaps, but i cannot see a way of accurately routing out the bearers to allow for a plate to be let in. The engine bolt holes will be in the main bearers just a bit close to the edge. I will go with Johns suggestion as its fairly straightforward, and should be adequate. You can all say told you so if the engine falls out! As a scale modeller i would be very unhappy to have the prop centre in the wrong place! Cheers Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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