Where can I find HEAVYWEIGHT tissue.?

[Maurice Dyer]

Being an old time modeller and still building, can anyone direct to me where I can find HEAVYWEIGHT tissue.?

Our good friends at Balsa Cabin, SLEC etc etc keep lightweight stuff, but not good old, balsa covered, doped on HEAVYWEIGHT tissue.

 

ANYONE ??

 

Maury

[J D 8]

Try Sussex models.

[PatMc]

Good old Modelspan in white only at Freeflightsupplies .

[Christopher Long 1]

Ben Buckle Vintage Kits 

[Andy Stephenson]

I used some heavy weight tissue I'd had for a few decades which I bought as Modelspan but only used it recently to find it gave a lumpy finish which is not how I remember HW Modelspan. My advice is to check out a sample before you commit it to a model.

[John Laird]

try doped lightweight over doculam or mylar - it will be both stronger and lighter as the combined cover needs less thinned dope

[Outrunner]

1 hour ago, John Laird said:

try doped lightweight over doculam or mylar - it will be both stronger and lighter as the combined cover needs less thinned dope

Even easier over doculam use cheap water based varnish from your local DIY store, hardly any smell and brushes wash in water.

[Don Fry]

Outrunner, how does the tissue handle the curves at tips, does it shrink enough to with water?

[Outrunner]

4 hours ago, Don Fry said:

Outrunner, how does the tissue handle the curves at tips, does it shrink enough to with water?

Works OK as long as the Doculam does not have any wrinkles, if you have a really tight curve then you would need to put slits in the tissue the same if you are using dope. I put the tissue on wet after lathering thinned WBV over the Doculam then when it's dry another thinned coat is brushed over. Very light. And cheap.

[PatMc]

I used tissue over doculam on this Amigo fuselage  using Wilco WBV (The cheapest WBV I could find). I thinned the varnish with a little with water. I cut the tissue into useable strips, wet each in turn, drape it & let it drip for a few seconds, smoothed it into place on the fuselage then brushed it with the thinned WBV. Repeated with each strip then once all dry gave it an all-over coat (or maybe two coats) of thinned varnish.   

You can see from the pics that it didn't involve much in the way of compound curves but what there was went on fine. 

Previously I used Rustins water thinned clear acrylic floor coating to stick lightweight tissue to doculam on a redundant tailplane - thread here. 

[Tim Hooper]

I'm using this over doculam;

 

https://www.carnivalpapers.com/collections/wet-strength-tissue-paper

 

Tim

[PatMc]

@Tim Hooper I'm interested in trying this tissue, do you know how it compares in texture etc with HW Modelspan ?

[perttime]

I hear some have used the "paper sheet" that is used at medical facilities. You might have to buy a big roll, though.

[John Laird]

Is the WBV fuelproof against diesel or glo fuel ??

[Outrunner]

1 hour ago, John Laird said:

Is the WBV fuelproof against diesel or glo fuel ??

Probably not but I only use electric power so it doesn't matter....

[Tim Hooper]

On 06/10/2022 at 11:49, PatMc said:

@Tim Hooper I'm interested in trying this tissue, do you know how it compares in texture etc with HW Modelspan ?

 

I think it's a bit coarser compared to the stock of pukka aeromodelling tissue I have in stock.

 

It's cheap enough to try though.

 

Tim

[PatMc]

Thanks Tim, I remember someone posted good a report about this paper on RCG some time ago but I couldn't find the thread or remember the name of the company.

I'll try some & also get one of their multi coloured packs, which isn't rated as "wet strength" to experiment with as decor in much the same way as Solartrim. Since it won't need any shrinking I'll apply it dry using either WBV (or dope thinners if the base tissue is doped) brushed on to soak through it   

[Don Fry]

Bit of a fishing question.
I’m going to build a KK Falcon. Light build, foam sheet and balsa, 30 micron semi Matt doculam, and tissue over, as needed for coloured highlights. Water based varnish.  Electric propulsion.

Today I was with SWMBO, in a serious stationary shop. She wanted some bits, but asked if they stocked tissue paper. She wanted some, for whatever purposes ladies need tissue paper, but I was interested, as I have not got any, and my needs are serious, rather than frivolous.

They did indeed stock it, and they had the following in all the colours of the rainbow, except white. 
It’s  smooth, 750mm by 500mm, cellophane outer package and eight sheets is 55 grams. So that’s iro, 20 g/meter. Cost, €2 a pack.

Obviously, a trial run on a test piece is needed, before committing to an airframe, but anyone got any adverse through to why this if not a no brainer.  Ignore debris and jams. Busy day.

[Outrunner]

Hi Don, no reason that stuff should not work, no brainer as you say. It looks really cheap too, I must have a look next time I'm in a craft or stationery shop. When you are putting it over Doculam I don't think the grade of tissue makes much difference.

[Andy Stephenson]

If it's art tissue chances are it has no wet strength, you will need to wet it to conform to the contours of the wing.

[Christopher Wolfe]

13 hours ago, Don Fry said:

Today I was with SWMBO, in a serious stationary shop. She wanted some bits, but asked if they stocked tissue paper. She wanted some, for whatever purposes ladies need tissue paper, but I was interested, as I have not got any, and my needs are serious, rather than frivolous.

They did indeed stock it, and they had the following in all the colours of the rainbow, except white. 
It’s  smooth, 750mm by 500mm, cellophane outer package and eight sheets is 55 grams. So that’s iro, 20 g/meter. Cost, €2 a pack.

Obviously, a trial run on a test piece is needed, before committing to an airframe, but anyone got any adverse through to why this if not a no brainer. 

Don.

 

Try an offcut to determine if the colour runs when wet. (If it does, forget it)

 

If all is good, cut strips and panels and lay in place dry over Doculam covered test frames.

 

Then spritz with a light spray of water from a deodorant pump (SWMBO's scent sprayer ideal) and seal the outer periphery with a thin brushed coat of WBPU.

 

When dry, if the tissue has shrunk, apply WBPU to the rest of the tissue on the test frame and if it works then you are home and hosed.

 

BTW -It would be interesting to discover if the tissue colouring is compatible with thinned nitrate dope.

 

Chris

[Don Fry]

Thanks lads, that’s a great help. Haven’t used tissue for decades, no memories of what it is like, I will make some test frames.

[PatMc]

7 hours ago, Christopher Wolfe said:

Don.

 

Try an offcut to determine if the colour runs when wet. (If it does, forget it)

 

If all is good, cut strips and panels and lay in place dry over Doculam covered test frames.

 

Then spritz with a light spray of water from a deodorant pump (SWMBO's scent sprayer ideal) and seal the outer periphery with a thin brushed coat of WBPU.

 

When dry, if the tissue has shrunk, apply WBPU to the rest of the tissue on the test frame and if it works then you are home and hosed.

 

BTW -It would be interesting to discover if the tissue colouring is compatible with thinned nitrate dope.

 

Chris

I wouldn't seal the periphery first as the tissue would expand when wetted this would probably cause trapped air bubbles &/or creases to develop. Try damping the tissue then draping it over something to allow excess water to drip off before laying it in place. Then brush the thinned WBV gently from the centre out, teasing any air towards the edges as you go. This is what I did when covering my Amigo fus & test example tailplane (Links in previous post).

If the tissue is too fragile to handle when wet - lay it in place dry then brush the WBV from the centre as described,

Remember the tissue is only a decorative layer taking the place of paint, it doesn't have to shrink so long as it adheres to the already shrunk doculam.

 

FWIW I don't think I'd use tissue at all on a model as big as the Falcon. I'd be looking for a lightweight nylon or faux silk to apply over the doculam.  

[Don Fry]

Cheers PatMc. Just another test piece, and see how it goes. I am grateful for all suggestions, as this is new to me. 
With the Falcon build, it’s part nostalgia. I dribbled over the Aeromodeler adverts as a child. But now I want to see how light I can build one, foam board, carbon, electric.  I reckon that with modern (light) radio, and it’s limited flight envelope, free flight design, it’s not going to get too stressed. It’s mostly going to be left as semi Matt doculam. The colour is just a bit of flash.