Making a field box fuel station.

[toto]

I'm looking at setting up a fuel system for my field box.

 

I'm not sure what I need. I will be using an onboard power panel with built in fuel pump.

 

I'm thinking of

 

Fuel bottle

Cap with required fittings and a seal

What type size of fuel line

Filters and fittings.

 

I have seen some bits and Bob's online but I'm not sure exactly what I need and if I can get it all under one roof.

 

The size and type of the fuel line is confusing me as well. 

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Toto

[steve too]

You are over thinking this.

 

 

The tubing is 3mm.

[toto]

Many thanks,

 

3mm fuel line and a clunk. I note you are using a manual pump. I already have the built in electric version but the same principle goes, one line in and one line out from the pump. I take it there is no need for any in line filter ?

 

Cheers

 

Tom

[Paul De Tourtoulon]

You can get tank fittings / exhaust fittings in most model shops, 2 liters is all I have in my box, more than enough for days flying at any club, my choice is an electric pump, I use this Kavan pump it will pump Methanol, paraffin and petrol, fuel fittings and a clunk that does not touch the bottom of the tank. and of course a filter

 

[steve too]

5 minutes ago, toto said:

I take it there is no need for any in line filter ?

 

The silver thing at the end of the pink tube is a filter.

 

I can't remember where I last bought tube from, probably Just Engines or RCWorld.

[Jason Channing]

Just not good practise to leave your fuel tubing on the floor or on grass. get yourself a screw on metal cap with fittings so the bottle remains sealed from dirt.

Edited March 31, 2023 by Jason Channing

[steve too]

28 minutes ago, steve too said:

The tubing is 3mm.

 

Or it might be 2.4mm.

[toto]

Hi Jason,

 

My club instructor has a metal bung inserted into the fuel hose when not in use. I'll probably go down the same line.

 

As far as the 3mm tube goes, I am assuming that is the internal diameter of the fuel line. Any fittings would have an outside diameter of 3mm.

 

I still have to see the pump that comes with the power panel ( not arrived yet ) and get an idea of how it will be installed in my field box in order to work out how to route both the fuel hose and the electrical supply from pump to panel etc. 

 

That will become clearer when it comes. I'm also thinking about a retractable " curly " hose for dispensing to the aircraft fuel inlet hose. 

 

Thanks again to all for contributing. So many things to try and work out.

 

Cheers

 

Toto

[Caveman]

Hi Toto, I don't know if this will be of interest to you, but this is my flight box, made from left over laminate flooring.

 

 

The left hand compartment houses starter, cleaning fluid and bottle to collect overflow of fuel. Then a half gallon container of fuel, to the right of which is my power panel which has a 2200mAh lipo underneath to power it. At the right is a stash of batteries. Behind the handle is a shelf for odds and ends.

 

 

At the back is a drawer which takes all the tools needed for field repairs and adjustments.

 

The fuel bottle has a hole drilled in the lid with a fuel tube inserted in a tight fitting plastic tube. The fuel tube is closed off with a golf tee peg when not in use (see first photo).

 

 

 

 

A filter is fitted to the end of the supply tube.

 

I'be been using this for the last 10 years or so and it's proved to be useful and quite adequate for my purposes.

 

GDB

[toto]

Excellent, I can see how this works. 

 

I did not realise the fuel hose went into the front of the panel. I had some preconceived idea that the hose would disappear under the panel and attach to the pump underneath or something like That. 

 

Pictures can speak a thousand words as they say.

 

I like the set up. It is very functional. Thanks for posting this up.

 

Toto

[J D 8]

 My ancient box. I think it was a free plan in RCME a long time ago. A bit on the big side but holds all. A lot lighter with out the old 12v lead acid.

In fuel can is large felt klunk filter  available at places that sell lawn mowers, brush cutters ect. Better than any of the model shop filters I have found.

 

[toto]

Looks like a bit of a beast. 

 

Not for carrying around by the looks of it.

 

Toto

[J D 8]

Yep, not for carting very far but does hold everything including tranys.

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Put the filter/s on your fuel delivery system, it causes no grief there but can when fitted on the model, also cheaper you don't need to buy one for every model.

[toto]

Sounds like a plan. Maybe keep any crap out of the models system altogether. 

 

Toto

[Graham Bowers]

7 hours ago, toto said:

Sounds like a plan. Maybe keep any crap out of the models system altogether. 

 

Toto

Strongly recommended.

 

I do both, to be honest. In-line fuel filter on the model and "Clunk" type in the can that has a metal gauze strainer. I check the fuel can strainer from time to time** and it has picked up fine fibres that I'm glad didn't enter the model. ** Fuel wasn't pumping properly on one occasion and thought the manual pump was on its way out. Turned out the can filter was blocked.

 

There are lots of good recommendations for flight boxes on this thread that all work, however you could equally use a shopping bag and that'd work too. But whatever you do, be fastidious with fuel filtering and that's one less reason for engine trouble, that may manifest as a dead stick.

[GrumpyGnome]

@totothe power panel will have 2 output nipples, and probably a switch.  Fuel tubing goes on each nipple.  One goes into your fuel container, and one to the filler/empty tube of the fuel container on your aircraft.  There will probably be a switch on the power panel to fill, or empty, your plane.

 

I used to have a powered pump, and a nice top for my fuel container with fuel line and a vent, but now just use a manual pump, and dangle the fuel tube into my container when needed.  The end that goes into my fuel container has a filter; the other end has a fitting that allows it to be inserted into the fill line on my aircraft fuel tank.  My pumps (one for glow, one for petrol) live in plastic shopping bags when not in use as I'm a bit more careful with my pennies these days, and my engines don't know the difference!

 

All my ic planes have 2 clunks - one for the carb and one for fuelling/defuelling.  I like the kind that have filters.  All my planes also have a filter in the fuel line between the tank and carb.

 

JustEngines have lots of good stuff and are very helpful.

Edited April 1, 2023 by GrumpyGnome

[Paul De Tourtoulon]

Fine fibers mean that your fuel has cheap Castor oil in it.

[Graham Bowers]

Just now, Paul De Tourtoulon said:

Fine fibers mean that your fuel has cheap Castor oil in it.

Thanks for that, I did wonder. I had 10 litres of old "Tornado" fuel to use up, and it burned nicely. It was in sealed metal cans, which probably kept moisture out.

 

I use synthetic oil based fuel now, currently burning "Southern Modelcraft 10%.

[Cuban8]

In my view, Sullivan CT Filters are the best solution to fuel filtration. Clear, so you can see at a glance whether your fuel is contaminated with 'bits', and they never, ever leak. Easy to reverse flush, although I've never had to do so, as I'm careful with the way I handle my fuel. Available from many suppliers.

Worth a few extra quid https://modelhelicopters.co.uk/products/sullivan-crap-trap-fuel-filter?variant=31930780745826

 

I never use a filter in my models now - I'm just very careful when decanting fuel into my flightbox bottle and use a CT filter only in the output from the pump and one of the small aluminium screw together types as a clunk in the fuel bottle.

 

However..............Many years ago when I ran two strokes, an otherwise totally reliable engine, quite out of the blue,  began to give me dead sticks. Went through all the usual checks but the engine's reliability continued to be of concern. For the umpteenth time over several weeks, I had the tank and fuel tubing out on the bench and still couldn't pinpoint a fault. No leaks, clunk perfect, pressure check fine. Engine carb clear.

I was running a Sullivan CT filter in the feed to the carb and for some reason I eventually took an extra hard look at its filter elements that on first glance looked OK. Not so.......

At the time before enlightenment, I was running fuel that contained a few % of Castor oil. The fuel tank was pressurised from the engine silencer in time honoured fashion. Very fine carbon deposits from the burnt Castor in the exhaust residue were finding their way into the tank and were eventually partially blocking the very fine CT filter mesh in the output line. It was  difficult to see the problem without a very close inspection, in fact the filter looked brand new.

Oddly, the motor would start and tune Ok and then run well in the air for a few minutes but then quit. I believe the blockage caused by the almost invisible thin film of carbon coating the fine filter somehow became worse as fuel flowed through it at a higher rate, leaned the engine off and that was that.

To be on the safe side, I replaced the filter with a new one of the same type, but before doing so, noticed that by blowing through the old and new ones, there was a noticeable difference in the ease of flows. Without the comparison, the old filter actually didn't seem too bad.

I changed to all synthetic fuel after that and never had another issue with the engine. Eventually didn't bother with filters in my models any more.

[J D 8]

             You can get felt klunk filters from lawnmower, chainsaw, strimmer fixers or the fleabay to go in your supply glow tank. All you will need as they are designed for small petrol motors that need very fine filtering. Cheaper than chips these day's. I just fit a new one each season. No filter on model.

[steve too]

18 hours ago, toto said:

I had some preconceived idea that the hose would disappear under the panel and attach to the pump underneath or something like That. 

 

I used to have one of those panels. The pump is very basic (OK, the whole thing is basic). The seals on mine started leaking after a while so, when you install it,  I would advise making sure that whatever is is below it is fuel proof.

 

(Also, it probably should be ATEX certified...)

[toto]

I am imagining that under the panel ....... will fit a 12V lead acid battery. Mmmmm.

 

I may need to rethink that then.I'll wait and see what comes first.

 

 I could always tie in a better pump ?

 

Toto

[Paul De Tourtoulon]

I wouldn't use Tornado fuel in a plane engine, certainly not a 2 stroke or Helicopter engine, not enough oil, it was sold for 3.5cc car engines in the pink metal can.

Edited April 1, 2023 by Paul De Tourtoulon
''''

[Nick Somerville]

I have a preference for hand crank pumps as it’s one less battery to charge. However I am on my third in four and a half years back modelling. Perkins, Prolux and  a Hangar 9 one. Tbh they all look the same and certainly they all leak the same! Do others experience the same leaking issues or do the pumps have a grudge against my winding technique?