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My next assembly ( The sequel ) ..... The Phoenix Domino EP


toto
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OK ..... back in the shed and the first thing I want to do is revisit the aileron push rod set ups as I ain't happy with them.

 

P1110169.thumb.JPG.f7c1502eb91f037ca1c6a08d3096f0e3.JPG

 

don't think these are secure .....

 

P1110171.thumb.JPG.d604ae9bc6cf357972c1c9aadf37d066.JPG

 

not liking this .....

 

P1110170.thumb.JPG.67b2963e2d31eb154d258b4267781d60.JPG

 

also ...the above is the rod fixed in the top hole of the servo horn .... look at the angle ..... is that normal as its the longest servo horn I have ?????

 

So I think I am going to take one of these .......

 

P1110172.thumb.JPG.267755c64b2dac9ee3ffa43c90721470.JPG

 

keep the clevis to the aileron side and put a Z bend at the servo end.

 

I'll be back.

 

toto

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OK ..... took it all apart and tried a Z bend but it was actually worse as I could not form it tight enough. I don't have the proper tool.

 

So .... I thought lets try the L bend again but instead of using the pliers to for it ............. its time to get mean ............ a vice and a hammer ....... lovely job. Nice and tight and the restrainer sits a whole lot better in it.

 

P1110174.thumb.JPG.2e4edaad69f127b65eaeebbef2e32197.JPG

 

and just for a bit extra insurance ......

 

P1110175.thumb.JPG.f9e8f9b7a8cfde676603c5dd16bc1649.JPG

 

it still works to full throw in each direction and doesn't foul anything. It'll do until I decide to invest in a Z bend thingy. probably sometime soon I think.

 

cheers for now.

 

toto

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Ok ...... Net was the changing of the aileron servo leads as they were too long. 

 

P1110178.thumb.JPG.93854e0337942d1adbe84d2245b1c23c.JPG

 

you could have wired the wing twice with this ...

 

P1110179.thumb.JPG.9e1fa80a1825d1e60686c3092f9aab55.JPG

 

here is what's going in instead ....... job done.

 

moving on to removing the wheels from the landing gear .... 1st the front .....

 

P1110176.thumb.JPG.e6ee1f0fbec4c600cc2eb1e95a547d8a.JPG

 

filed a flat in the axle area ....

 

P1110180.thumb.JPG.26e12f1252c093fb2c84ed4901671f90.JPG

 

apologies for the blurry image .... then back on with the wheel and apply some thread lock to the collet.

 

Next the rear wheels ..... same again .....

 

P1110177.thumb.JPG.83b56b09fc13642188fa035a113a44c7.JPG

 

file flats ....

 

P1110181.thumb.JPG.d6a956dabbde80e95a24b29e087b9aab.JPG

 

back on with wheels and apply some thread lock ...

 

P1110182.thumb.JPG.137875123ffa49c3874c02606427edb6.JPG

 

time to move on ........ cheers for now 

 

toto

 

 

 

 

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Ok,

 

I moved on to installing the receiver ....

 

P1110183.thumb.JPG.21918d125aaca64cbce9a8b55b049db1.JPG

 

I have used the terminals as follows 

 

Batt. empty for now but will take the receiver battery

1. the ESC

2. Aileron Y Lead

3. Elevator

4. Rudder

5. spare

6. spare

 

P1110188.thumb.JPG.f49acbe27db88770d20d8371b358d3ca.JPG

 

does that sound about right ???

 

next .....

 

P1110184.thumb.JPG.c59ec676fc9ce5e2751b2ce8bc038418.JPG

 

The ESC ....

 

P1110185.thumb.JPG.e7d8567dca7157b0668bfe6244b92fe7.JPG

 

and enough room for the main battery .....

 

P1110190.thumb.JPG.858a47d632eea595e2caa921844b2c33.JPG

 

and from another angle ....

 

P1110191.thumb.JPG.e8265c970c3f1f81412bf9b3cc9d7e5b.JPG

 

That leaves the EC5 terminals to be soldered onto the ESC leads ... and the prop .... and here is the prop a 14 x 6

 

P1110192.thumb.JPG.8d82b769b1e53e0d1851f0931210f1dd.JPG

 

and again

 

P1110193.thumb.JPG.cc997a82e01793cfdb0895f1a53ebe1b.JPG

 

now ... the centre hole is not big enough to fit onto the motor drive shaft ..... so I'll need to bore that out.

 

The EC5 fittings for the ESC lead .....

 

P1110196.thumb.JPG.c822be6558fa8565052314d5e6dcdef0.JPG

 

will go a bit like this .....

 

P1110195.thumb.JPG.a623be7a5e63c91bd9ec3def82d502c3.JPG

 

the inside hole that the cable has to be soldered into is a bit shallow .....

 

P1110197.thumb.JPG.49a8fd60c23f8ea99bb8e04c346b8c1c.JPG

 

the cable will have to be twisted, bent over double and tinned prior to soldering in order for it to be reasonably solid i the terminal of the brass pin.

 

Not sure if I like this at all ..... the jury is still out on this one.

 

However ..... thats for tomorrow as I've had enough of the shed for today.

 

see you inside

 

toto

 

 

 

P1110187.JPG

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You'll be taking the ESC out of the model to solder the connector on though? The lead needs tinning, but it doesn't need to be a solid block to solder into the connector. That is much better done on the bench, rather than in the model. You can either make a jig out of clothes pegs, or my preferred jig is a series of holes for the various connector sizes drilled into a piece of wood, but you can also use one of those helping hands gadgets, with a couple of crocodile clips.

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Hi Leccyflyer, 

 

Yes I will remove the ESC prior to soldering. I wouldn't go within a country mile of the model with a soldering iron. Also, you do need to have the EasC out in order to situate it in some sort of jig to free your hands up for soldering anyway as you rightly point out.

 

I'll get myself in the zone for that tomorrow. Might even get power to the whole thing.

 

I've kept the positioning of the battery flexible for the moment until I work out the C of G. Likewise thr receiver has not been planted yet until all the wiring and equipment has been finalised.

 

Might not be quite ready for a maiden this weekend as I hope I'll be flying ... and ... the Arising Star is at the front of the queue for Maidens.

 

However ... The Tiger 60 may well commence at some point next week ..... it's all go.

 

Cheers

 

Toto

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Good stuff. Remember - take the prop off when working with the model. You don't need it on the model at all, until it comes to balance it, check the current draw and put it to work. Always remove the prop, whatever else you are doing with the model. When it comes to checking the rotation of the motor a small piece of masking tape leaving a wee tab on the motor shaft is enough to see that rotation direction easily. 

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9 hours ago, toto said:

"I have used the terminals as follows 

 

Batt. empty for now but will take the receiver battery

1. the ESC

2. Aileron Y Lead

3. Elevator

4. Rudder

5. spare"

".....the inside hole that the cable has to be soldered into is a bit shallow ....."

 

Hi @toto

 

Is your ESC a type without a BEC?  If not, you'll need to remove/cut the small red wire where the ESC plugs into the receiver. If the ESC has a BEC, then personally, I'd save the weight (and minor hassle) of using a separate receiver battery.  Personal choice of course.  Someone is bound to have a different view.

 

Similarly, if you have a spare channel, I'd have the ailerons on separate channels for additional flexibility.  Again, just a personal choice.

 

A proper 'Z' bend pliers is a VERY useful tool...... definitely money well spent.

 

I've never used EC5 connectors, but I have used dozens of bullet connectors with those small areas for soldering the cables to. It's plenty big enough, and as already mentioned, you don't need to double up the wiring.

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The ESC looks like it has an SBEC, which would be perfectly adequate for that model, but if Toto wants to use a receiver battery then, rather than cut the red wire from the ESC, a short extension lead with the red wire removed, or simply teasing the red wire out of the housing and taping it back out of the way saves permanenly modifying the ESC. To tease the wire out, just get a pin, or scaplel point, under the plastic tang on the back of the plug and gently ease the wire out of the housing, fold bck and secure with a wrap of tape.

 

Like you I have made hundreds of those connections soldering to bullet connectors and for most wires there is no need to double up the wire at all - in fact to do so would compromise the fitting. I strip a few mm of insulation and aim to get the tinned wire nicely seated to the base of the receptacle. I tin the wire, then put the connector into the hole on the jig, hold the iron to the top of the connector, feed in sufficient solder to partially fill the hole, then lower the wire vertically into the receptacle, touching it against the iron tip to bring both pieces up to temperature. Remove the iron, hold in place, then after cooling for a few seconds the joint can be examined and give a wee tug test, before applying the heat shrink. It'll be a bit different for an EC5, but there are videos showing how best to tacke that job. IN either case, you don;t need to double up the wire - the aim should be to have a connection that is nice and straight with no excess solder adhering to the connecter outer.

 

The only time you might need to double up the wires is making connections of thin motor wires to 3.5mm bullet connectors on small motors - I used to use 2mm connectors for those jobs, but have standardised on 3.5mm bullets for all but the smallest motors, but some of them do have verfy thin wires which, when you put them into the connector is a bit like throwing a sausage up O'Connell Street. On those I strip a bit more of the wire and make the wire into a small loop, before tinning and making the connection. All of this is quicker to do that to write about.

Edited by leccyflyer
typo
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Hopefully get the EC5 connectors soldered onto the ESC tonight.

 

I'll be working on cleaning up the Arising Star for its maiden first of all but hope to get onto this as well.

 

Fighting on two fronts tonight. :classic_biggrin:

 

Toto

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Got the EC5 soldered up.

 

Bound the receiver .... no problem. Connected in the servos etc.

 

 Battery Port ..... receiver battery

Port 1 ....the ESC

Port 2 ..... ailerons via Y harness

Port 3.... rudder

Port 4 ..... Elevator

Port5 ..... spare

Port 6 ..... spare

 

At this point I had not connected the main battery.

 

 

Tried the throws

 

1. Throttle ..... seemed to work I assume via the receiver battery

2. Ailerons ..... fine

3. Rudder ..... fine

4. Elevator ..... fine

 

 

Connected the main battery and when I tested the throttle there was an almighty grinding noise. Switched it all back off.

 

Any ideas ?

 

Toto

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6 minutes ago, toto said:

Got the EC5 soldered up.

 

Bound the receiver .... no problem. Connected in the servos etc.

 

 Battery Port ..... receiver battery

Port 1 ....the ESC

Port 2 ..... ailerons via Y harness

Port 3.... rudder

Port 4 ..... Elevator

Port5 ..... spare

Port 6 ..... spare

 

At this point I had not connected the main battery.

 

 

Tried the throws

 

1. Throttle ..... seemed to work I assume via the receiver battery

2. Ailerons ..... fine

3. Rudder ..... fine

4. Elevator ..... fine

 

 

Connected the main battery and when I tested the throttle there was an almighty grinding noise. Switched it all back off.

 

Any ideas ?

 

Toto

Check to make sure the magnets havent picked up anything, does it turn over ok not under power?

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Hi Learner,

 

Yes it spins freely when in no power situation.

 

I've also just read that it does not require the receiver battery as the ESC has Becs. 

 

I'm sure I tried this last night though ( disconnecting the receiver battery and just using the main battery via the ESC and the grinding noise continued.

 

I dont have it set up in the shed at this very moment as it's still in the car from my abandoned club visit. I will bring it back in later once I've chilled a bit ... :classic_biggrin: 

 

I'll try again.

 

One other thing, as I have 2 spare ports in the receiver, I understand that I can give the second aileron it's own port to do away with the Y lead. Where does that get plugged into ? One of the soare ports ( numbers 5 or 6 ) ?

 

Cheers

 

Toto

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Does your motor make a grinding noise, or a sort of juddering? Does it do it immediately power is available, or when you try and apply throttle?

 

Re the radio, I would imagine you can use either, as long as you tell the radio which one to treat as another aileron (it's probably covered in the manual tbh). I'm not a Spektrum expert but there are lots on here.

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