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The Big Question ?


RICHARD WILLS

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Graham . I will start weathering the FW190 this week and document how to do it without having any special tools or skills . The point of this pair is to try and break down barriers for those that fancy stepping over from ARTF world . Our existing gang really needs this to protect our future . 

To that end I want to keep the thread simple and the build fast and cheap . 

Ive designed and built the 190 in about two months from a standing start and already have most of the Tempest on paper . Equally I have an obligation to make both models as good as I can to be respectful to our lads . So if the Tempest doesnt get under the Christmas tree but arrives in January , it will be for a good reason . 

Both models will take retracts for sure . But I want them to be retrofitted as far as the thread is concerned . It will not be difficult and for those that want to , I will provide all the tricky bits but make it simple . 

However , and this is important . When we all started getting into warbirds , we all had fixed undercarriage or no undercarriage . That meant that the effort of build , balancing and making fly , were all we had to deal with as a first proper scale model . 

Our prospective newbies may already have a warbird with flaps , retracts , panel lines and a cuddly toy and feel that they have to cover the same hurdles in the first attempt . 

No wonder they find it daunting .

Equally the fitting of IC engines will muddy the water . It can be done , of course , but both subjects previously had horrible long , non scale noses to make them balance .

These two , by mounting the battery pack vertical , can comfortably be built with scale noses .

I'm glad you asked the questions , because it is significant . In some ways these models are large , entry level fun fighters . The advantage being, light wing loading so easier launch and landing plus more realistic flying speeds . 

The other thing is , you can buy a TN Fw190 for £250 if you want a "full fat " version or an RBC Tempest for £199 . 

Or you can buy a very slick build kit of one of the above and join the gang above . 

Something for everyone I guess 😄

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Cheers for the response, i didn't mean for yourself to document/ produce an i/c version of either kit, as you say it's simple quick build  entry level warbird with no complications.

I would make the necessary alterations to fit engine/ retracts.

I really wanted to know if the airframe, firewall would take a i/c fit.

Wrt TN stuff- over priced, not exactly scalish looking enough for me, yes i'm picky, and as you know I like you kits, back up service,, etc 😉

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No , I'm glad we could clarify Graham . Later on there will be a special plug in unit to convert to retracts for those that want to . 

The IC conversion means making the nose longer which is not difficult , but will spoil the looks . 

From my point of view , an IC option just makes designing a whole lot harder for the few who want to go down that route . 

I like the long nose 190 , which is more suited to IC but most don't . 

For those that really want to go IC , have a look back in the thread at my original 190 and Tempest . They were both stretched for IC . 

Thats the compromise you have to make . Ballast is the other option . 

Edited by RICHARD WILLS
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Ive been tidying up the plan and musing on a new company strap line . I was simply going to put designed by Muppets . 

But Chris came up with a better one a few pages back . 

"Designed by Puppets , flown by Muppets "

I am a little concerned by the offence this might cause . I ran this by green Graham and he pointed out that both he and sweep are described on their Equity cards as performing puppets . Although he didnt agree with the category in general (and nor did his friends, Basil Brush and Lamb Chop ) , he had come to accept it over the years.

As far as the humans are concerned . I am honest enough to consider myself a grade one , top drawer muppet . How about you guys ?

A step too far ?

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Edited by RICHARD WILLS
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With Yuletide approaching, Mrs Lipo Man has once again asked if I am hoping for some sort of gift this year. Having reviewed the year in detail, I have concluded that I have been an extremely good boy indeed. Put me down for an FW190. Mrs Lipo Man will deal with the necessaries vis a vis payment in due course. I’ll need to choose a colourful scheme for visibility - think I’ll do the one attached. 
👍

 

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Right , now here comes the exciting bit . This is where we elevate the 190 way beyond its ARTF competition . 

We have a "proper " skin , not crocodile skin , so we might as well make the most of it . 

First thing to point out is that my surface finish is pretty rough . Reason is - you wont see it . (I dont do stuff unless its needed , ask my wife 😕

In my opinion the next section gives the biggest uplift for the least effort . 

Apart from the silver and the black lines , all the rest could be removed if we cock it up . So you're not risking anything . If you're still not sure , start on the underside . 

If you print off a three view of an Fw190 , you will notice some prominent lines on the tailplane . We don't have to get them dead right , so I just put the lines on with a thin black permanent felt pen . Also , without two much thought I added some little "C" shapes in pairs either side of the joint . You dont have to do them all . In fact skip a few now and then , it looks better . I got a white gel pen from WH Smiths , and lightly skimmed in some more panel lines . The white represents , light catching the edge of a panel or light shining on bare metal on a rivet . In general , it gives a three dimensional impression . 

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Edited by RICHARD WILLS
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The next step requires some black and white chalk and some low tack masking tape and a finger .

The way shadows and different shades appear on any vehicle is due to the angle of the panel and the airflow dragging muck over it . 

So lets create some variation . Lets assume that the leading edge will get a strong clean blast of air , but the panel behind it , after the joint will suck muck down onto it . 

To keep the edge clean , mask it . Then work some of the black chalk (or charcoal )  onto the green tape . 

Next step , get a circular motion going with your finger to create a round black smudge . 

Finally whip off the tape . 

The same technique can be applied in white chalk on the dark painted areas . 

The main thing is create variation , which importantly would not cross panel lines . 

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The elevators are fabric covered on a 190 . So to keep it simple I use the width of the green tape as my spacer . I then just work my way along with dark shade on one side of the dips between "ribs" (not really there ) , and light shade on the other side . That is how we see a ribbed wing . The sun will light up one side of the valley and the other will be in shadow . 

After doing the white and black shading , I get a silver shaker pen and create a little blob on a piece of paper . You could also dry brush silver paint . 

I dip my finger in and wipe from front to back (like the airflow ) on the leading edges . I also do wing tips and other wear areas . 

 

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Now lets make a comparison between the previously considered "finished" tail plane and the weathered one.

Keep in mind that it took way longer to write this up than do it . 

If I was left alone to do it , that would be 30mins work . 

Feel free to ask questions if I didnt explain it . Maybe I should run a course like Rick Stein ?

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