The Big Question ?

[Silver Wolf]

Richard, could you please add a set of red 13 decals to my Fw-190 kit. I have a 4Max PPP0-3548-1100 motor and is rated 1100kv, 800w. Batteries 3S 2600 0r 4S 2200. Would these be suitable? Kind Regards

[Arthur Harris]

2 hours ago, Ron Gray said:

Just let Richard know by saying, on here, that you would like a kit (FW190 and/or Tempest) then Richard will add your name to the ever expanding list. You will not regret the purchase!

I'd never heard of Richard Wills or warbirds before, but Google came up with this as someone else didn't know either:

The company is Warbirds Replicas, Richard Wills is the chap that produces them, there is a lot more information on the Warbirds forum look under the Big Question thread. Richard produces small run batches of kits to order, i have bought his Lavochkin and JU88 kits when batches were done of those, these latest ones are designed to be cheap to put in the air, easy to build and to use cheaply available finishing materials. The last 10 pages or so of the long Big question thread should give you a taster of what these two kits are about. Any other questions if you pop Richard a PM he will respond with all the answers. The last few pages show the 190 being put together so will give you and idea of how quick and easy they are to build, John has kindly put up the link i forgot to add to the Big question thread!

Edited October 26 by martin collins 1

I guess this is the link to his site:WarbirdReplicas – Where Replica Warbirds Are Born

Edited November 24, 2023 by Arthur Harris

[GrumpyGnome]

No, this is the link... http://www.warbirdreplicas.co.uk

 

You'll find much more info by reading this thread, or searching this forum tbh...... 

Edited November 24, 2023 by GrumpyGnome

[David Davis 2]

Richard, when you get round to making the Tempests could I order decal set PRD which I believe was the Tempest flown by a pilot called Frank Wheeler. This is not the same man who lived at the bottom of my street, his name was Leslie Wheeler but I have no way of finding out which squadron he flew with or how his aircraft were marked so PRD will do. Put me down for a dolly kit too.

Edited November 24, 2023 by David Davis 2

[Graham Davies 3]

Arthur, all the info you need is in this thread. It's a long read, but worthwhile...

 

[RICHARD WILLS]

2 hours ago, Silver Wolf said:

Richard, could you please add a set of red 13 decals to my Fw-190 kit. I have a 4Max PPP0-3548-1100 motor and is rated 1100kv, 800w. Batteries 3S 2600 0r 4S 2200. Would these be suitable? Kind Regards

Red 13 added SW . Yes your motor will do . Stick to one 3s 2600  or two 3s 2200 in parallel . 11v x 1100Kv gives a no load speed of 12000revs , which is similar to a fourstroke.

However it wont hold that speed even in a dive with the prop load . So I would suggest a 12 or 13" diameter , start with 6 " Pitch and then if not enough top speed go to 7" pitch . 

[Silver Wolf]

👍 Thanks, the electric bit does tend to confuse me a little, I tend to blame my ASD 🙂

[RICHARD WILLS]

I think Voltaire was the main culprit . 

Ive written him a stinker . 

[Eric Robson]

He won't reply, he's never at ohm

[RICHARD WILLS]

BOOM BOOM !

[RICHARD WILLS]

Up yours Mr Derek !

[Graham Bowers]

How are build threads / queries to be organised, please? I have specific questions about my proposed "captured" color scheme of my build.

 

[RICHARD WILLS]

Ask away Graham . 

[Alan Hilton]

Wat was the question 

[Alan Hilton]

Watt even!!!
 

 

[RICHARD WILLS]

4 minutes ago, Graham Bowers said:

How are build threads / queries to be organised, please? I have specific questions about my proposed "captured" color scheme of my build.

 

Graham said the above Alan. So I'm ready to have ago 

[Graham Bowers]

55 minutes ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

Ask away Graham . 

Thanks Richard.

 

As indicated earlier I'm planning to go for the colour scheme of a captured example, see below.  So I need to place paint of appropriate colours in the right places. I'm not too bothered about rivet-counting-precision, however the result has to be plausible.

 

This question is about the colors.

 

I wondered about getting colour matches at B&Q /Wickes etc  from internet sourced image files, or maybe even being lucky enough to find a picture in a book. But then thought that the guys who re-painted this craft probably used what was handy. And what was handy was probably in the stores. So it was a military spec colour of the time. And those colours may have RAL equivalents.

 

Am I anywhere close?  I'm probably over thinking this, however was invited 😉

 

 

 

 

Edited November 24, 2023 by Graham Bowers

[RICHARD WILLS]

captured.avifNo , not overthinking at Graham . To my mind , the main thing as you say is to make it believable . 

So it cant look like a brightly coloured toy for several reasons . This was a "second hand " plane and had probably been tested locally before arriving at the US base for painting . I agree with you about them using paints that were available . So you can pretty much guarantee that the yellow is the same colour as the US used for its trainers like the Harvard and Stearman . The red is probably what they used for squadron markings like the red noses on some P51s .

I would not get too hung up on the actual colours . But , I would stain the whole lot very heavily as you can see in your picture . That will calm the yellow and red right down . 

If you have a very cheap airbrush , (Humbrol do one you can plug into a spare tyre for about £20 )  , you can spray on streaks of Tamiya Smoke . (X19?)  

Tamiya smoke is very interesting . It is basically a brown/grey suspended in clear lacquer . So when you do the first stripe it barely shows . But every time you go over the same space it firms up . So its easy to use as you cant really overdo it . 

I would go over all the panel lines to make it look tired and spray random stripes in line with the airflow . 

I like doing weathering on yellow because it has so much impact . You would see every oil drip and carbon stain . 

Have a look at some 1:48 plastic models by googling say "yellow nose 109 "  . Gives you lots of ideas . 

BTW in case anyone else fancies a caged bird , there are a few other cool schemes . I like the white /red one !

Edited November 24, 2023 by RICHARD WILLS

[Graham Bowers]

4 minutes ago, RICHARD WILLS said:

No , not overthinking at Graham . To my mind , the main thing as you say is to make it believable . 

So it cant look like a brightly coloured toy for several reasons . This was a "second hand " plane and had probably been tested locally before arriving at the US base for painting . I agree with you about them using paints that were available . So you can pretty much guarantee that the yellow is the same colour as the US used for its trainers like the Harvard and Stearman . The red is probably what they used for squadron markings like the red noses on some P51s .

I would not get too hung up on the actual colours . But , I would stain the whole lot very heavily as you can see in your picture . That will calm the yellow and red right down . 

If you have a very cheap airbrush , (Humbrol do one you can plug into a spare tyre for about £20 )  , you can spray on streaks of Tamiya Smoke . (X19?)  

Tamiya smoke is very interesting . It is basically a brown/grey suspended in clear lacquer . So when you do the first stripe it barely shows . But every time you go over the same space it firms up . So its easy to use as you cant really overdo it . 

I would go over all the panel lines to make it look tired and spray random stripes in line with the airflow . 

I like doing weathering on yellow because it has so much impact . You would see every oil drip and carbon stain . 

Have a look at some 1:48 plastic models by googling say "yellow nose 109 "  . Gives you lots of ideas . 

BTW in case anyone else fancies a caged bird , there are a few other cool schemes . I like the white /red one !

Thanks Richard. Plan A is to do some practice experiments. I'm feeling quite sucked in ;-)

[RICHARD WILLS]

Yes , go back to where I did the black and white chalk and try that on perhaps some yellow card 

In fact I use to demo this effect at my club . Just go into WH smiths , buy some A4 sheets of yellow , pale blue or grey card . 

Try drawing on some panel lines and try all the effects I've shown . Also have a look at 1;32 scale modelling for ideas . keep it simple but you will become addicted !

You dont need an airbrush to get results . 

[Ron Gray]

10 hours ago, Graham Bowers said:

Am I anywhere close

B&Q do a red and yellow that, once ‘dirtied’ as per Richard’s advice, will look close enough. 

[David Davis]

Richard, I have an unemployed Pro-Tronik DM 2830 660kv electric motor, specs here:https://www.weymuller.fr/article/moteur_brushless_protronik_dm2830_660.html, sorry they're in French but I have lived in France for the last eight years! Would this suit a Tempest? If so with what battery and propeller?

[RICHARD WILLS]

2 minutes ago, David Davis said:

Richard, I have an unemployed Pro-Tronik DM 2830 660kv electric motor, specs here:https://www.weymuller.fr/article/moteur_brushless_protronik_dm2830_660.html, sorry they're in French but I have lived in France for the last eight years! Would this suit a Tempest? If so with what battery and propeller?

Hi David , 

               660kv is pretty much perfect for a 4S pack . Anywhere between 2600mah up to a small 4000mah pack . 

As we are all using two blade props so that we dont keep breaking them during belly landing , I would start with a 13x7 or 13x8 . 

It makes sense to try and use some motors we already have . Although some may struggle so I have organised a small back up stash . 

[Roger Bird]

Full decal set of either 13 or 23 for me please Richard, if there's any left!

[RICHARD WILLS]

The kits will include fibreglass wing tape in 3" form. you can see here that Ive added it with epoxy . Other people do use PVA and say its strong enough , though Ive never tried it . I will paint over the underside , but it will get plenty of scrapes anyway . It doesnt have to go all the way round as it really just has to bond to the skins to be structurally sound . When you think about how small a dihedral brace is on a built up wing with all the stress on one point , you can see that spreading the load like this is far better . If I hadnt been in such a rush I would have added the tape after joining the wings . Either way is fine .