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Glass cloth or Film

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I’m thinking of building an Acrowot and covering with glass cloth then airbrushing.  Read somewhere the weight difference is not a major issue.  Has anyone done this?  

Or is film the only way to go?  

I’ve glass clothed funfighters a few times, quite an easy process really.  

Welcome thoughts on this

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Glass is good but takes longer is messy and on a model like the AcroWot is it really worth it and tgen you have to paint it ? The new cheaper coverings are brilliant and cost effective . I use Rapid RC's covering as its a fraction of the cost of Oracover and miles ahead of the coverings offered by ripmax etc. 

Its your choice so do what you enjoy most.

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I’ve built a Wot 4 and then glassed and painted it with 2 pack aerosol, the aim to create a Winter hack.  It worked perfectly, the covering and paint are completely fuel proof and it only requires are spray of water with detergent and a wipe down.  I don’t need to worry about film lifting and it looks the same after a flying throughout the winter as it did in September.  
I agree that it is more work but it does create a fuel proof, durable finish.  I used automotive aerosols where the aerosol had a hardener inside the tin, by activating it the tin was useable for at least two weeks.  The paint is entirely fuel proof after being allowed a week to cure.  


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Thanks for your thoughts on this.

I do like glass clothing and airbrushing but as said it is time consuming but the airbrushing is fun.  Using film I find frustrating.  I was wondering though is it heavier using glass cloth?

How did you find the models performance having glassed it?  What engine are you using?  On the Acrowot is was thinking OS46SF. 




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I’ve used the OS 55, mainly because it was what I had.  A bit too big but it flies really well.  I just wanted a model that was simple to operate and fliers in all weathers, it fits that bill perfectly. 

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Techniques for glassing do differ and with some versions, weight build up is significant. I'm certainly no expert, but my results have been satisfactory and to me, a major error is to use cloth that is too heavy for the job and makes filling the weave difficult. I don't agree that the process needs to be messy.

I obtained some 1/2 oz cloth and found that ideal although great care had to be taken with it. 25g cloth that is sold as light weight is OK but something like half as heavy again as my 1/2 oz. I believe 18g cloth is available. Experiment and see what works for you.

Horses for courses, naturally - But IMHO you can't beat a glassed and two-pack finish for durability.


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  • 2 weeks later...

It’s  epoxy based.  I’ve used West Systems in the past but this time I bought from Easy Composites, labelled EL2.  They do a fast or slow cured hardener, I’ve used both.  I apply the resin by using a cheap foam roller from Toolstation/Screwfix which goes in the bin afterwards.  I find that the roller leaves the perfect amount on, neither too little or too much.  After the first coat has hardened it gets a quick rub down followed by a second coat.  That too is quickly rubbed down before paint.  Any minor imperfections are filled with Dolphinglaze putty.  

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I still prefer Bucksboy's system, I roll on the resin, the roller makes it even, then the F/g, and roller again, if it's a bit dry a quick going over with a hair dryer, or for the baldy's out there a heat gun, that thins it out so that you use less of it, but if you need a bit more resin, go for it, then a sanding block with 120 lightly over it to get any little spikes off of it, than car 2 pot polyurethane primer filler, to get it perfect without too much weight.

aile resiner-2048.jpg

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Posted (edited)



just on with glassing my Sabre.  I use West System, 3/4oz glass cloth and peel ply.  First off is a coat of 30-50% Non shrinking dope mixed with microballoons as a filler (careful on foam core wings not to slosh it on).  Lightly sand to knock off the fuzz.  

For me, the first advantage of the PeelPly is the consistent finish.  Its an extra step, and uses more epoxy, as I’ve found best results are achieved by fully wetting out the glass then fully wetting out the PeelPly on top (hair dryer helps the resin flow out.  You don’t want to see any puddles or shiny areas in the PeelPly. 


The second, and biggest advantage, is the slightly dimpled surface it leaves.  It makes a noise like a zip being pulled up and down when sanding.  You know when to stop sanding an area when the ‘zippy’ noise stops.  Start with 120 grit dry to get rid of most of the dimples and then go up some grades wet for a nice surface ready for priming.

West System dry sands to a powder nice and doesn’t ball up if you keep your paper clear on the lower grades (rub it on some foam to clear it).  If I go through the glass I flood on a bit of thick zap and rub in with glass powder from the sanding.   Then sand again.  Repeat as needed.  If you don’t go through you are sanding enough off 😂

On curved/compound surfaces you can use patches of peel ply.  You end up with little lines in the overlaps but easily sanded down along with all the rest.


Not saying this is the only, best or cheapest way but works for me.








Edited by MikeQ
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I appreciate and understand that there are many ways to glass a model, I don’t use peel ply as the roller ensures that there is never too much in the first place.  To me, it’s an extra step that’s not necessary.  But, as I said, horses for courses and all that.  

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