Discussions around the Nijhuis model designs

[Brian Lambert]

No not my model. I stole the photo from here. It may be worth a letter to BAE Systems?

Brian

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

what about BAE systems? my dad works there (or what used to be called bae systems)

[Brian Lambert]

Keith was/is looking for detail of the Avro Manchester I presume any drawings would be with BAE Systems and I would think that they would have an archivist who may be able to help. But I could be wrong!

Brian

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

i think my question may have been missed so i will reprint it here:

i am gonna design a spitfire for my MDS 38 i have lying around, i hope you don't mind me using your model spits as a reference for weight and wing span, just wondering, did you put in any wash in or wash out on them? i will need to make sure the wings are really strong because i want to put some retracts in, cause i suck at hand launches

p.s, i got a supermarine spitfire haynes manual for xmas

[Terence Lynock]

Hi Tony,

                re your 'dogfright double' Mosquito/Moskito pair.....would it be safe to bungie launch these as hand launching and trying to keep control of the little box wiv the stick things on may be hard work.

Also looking for a plan for a 109 G or K but cant find one anywhere, plenty of E's and the odd F but the G and later is somewhat neglected, I have four 109 E plans from a box with wings painted to look like one to a half decent plan but prefer the sleeker G by far,

regards and happy new year,              Terry

[Anthony Widdowson]

Been looking at the free Hawker Hurricane plan and been wondering what would happen if I built it with the motor centered and without the side thrust. ???

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

it would probably veer off to the left

[Tony Nijhuis]

Terry, I always hand launched myself but a bungie will always be better and get you to flying speed with out you wrestling the sticks....

Anthony, don't remove the side thrust otherwise you will have problems turning right (if you only use aileron and elevator).  You'll also find the model will track right at low throttle and pull left on full throttle.....   The side thrust effectively balances the model 'laterally'

Tony

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

do your spitfires have wash out? im gonna make one inbetween your sizes, for a .40 and i hope you dont mind me using yours as a reference

[Terence Lynock]

Hi Tony,

                many thanks, I usually go off on my own (except for SWMBO) so hand launching is a problem as I chicken out of chucking it then trying to get on the sticks before it turns into a JCB.

The Ta 154 wing is a bit of a pig to build up as the upper surface has no dihedral but the lower surface does, this makes building a one piece wing a real pain but I have done one and learned a lot from it, may do a Mk2 and make a better job of it next time around,

regards,    Terry

[Tony Nijhuis]

Peter, I prefer to desing and build for lightness whch reduces the need for washout. The smaller models say 40" or less do benifit from a bit of washout and gives you the confidence to slow the model up without worry of tip stall. However if you use a flat sheet wing as used on my 30" spit  these wing types just don't seam to tip stall.....just 'mush' then put there nose down...

Terry, not sure what you mean about the dihedral on the Ta154.....its a 3/8" thick sheet wing and from memory there's not dihedral shaped in either top or bottom!

Cheers All

Tony    

[Terence Lynock]

Terry, not sure what you mean about the dihedral on the Ta154.....its a 3/8" thick sheet wing and from memory there's not dihedral shaped in either top or bottom!

Cheers All

Tony    

Hi Tony,

                 being a glutton for punishment I wanted to use a built up wing to save a bit of weight and also because it seemed an interesting project, used an airofoil section very simular to the plate wing on yours.

The lower surface is flat like the original wing but the thickness tapers to the tip, on the original aircraft the top surface was straight with no dihedral so the lower surface accounted for the taper, it appears to have worked out OK but may be a little too lightly built hence the intention of a Mk2 wing built just the same but a bit beefier,

best regards,  Terry

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

Tony Nijhuis wrote (see)

Peter, I prefer to desing and build for lightness whch reduces the need for washout. The smaller models say 40" or less do benifit from a bit of washout and gives you the confidence to slow the model up without worry of tip stall. However if you use a flat sheet wing as used on my 30" spit  these wing types just don't seam to tip stall.....just 'mush' then put there nose down...

Terry, not sure what you mean about the dihedral on the Ta154.....its a 3/8" thick sheet wing and from memory there's not dihedral shaped in either top or bottom!

Cheers All

Tony    

yeah, i wanna try and make a built up wing, for a .38 i have worked out i will have a wingspan of about 48"

I want a project that will take me a while

[Terence Lynock]

yeah, i wanna try and make a built up wing, for a .38 i have worked out i will have a wingspan of about 48"

I want a project that will take me a while

Hi Peter,

              there is no magic to it just accurate measurement and alignment and take your time, if you dont understand something just study it until you do or ask someone who does.

I suppose after 30 years of building scale sailing ship models for collectors and museums I have an advantage but even Tony would probably admit that there was a time when something left him scratching his head over a cup of tea while he figured it out, I know I have been there many times in the past.

Building your own models not only gives you a sense of achievement but a better understanding of structure and aerodynamics, there is also the understanding of how things work and why and if you crash it no problem - you made it so you can fix it,

regards,        Terry

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

my dad has just been rebuilding his balsacraft sea fury, except he is putting flaps and gear on it, that had some washout, i found out is really easy to do

[Harry Evans]

Hello All

 

Tony I cannot now find the spitfire build forum - has it been taken down?

 

Does anyone know if a set of plans exist for a Fairy Gannet  AEW Mk 3 or even one for the earlier marks 1, 2, 4, 5 or 6.

 

What would be a good book to get on designing model Scale aircraft.

 

Harry

[Nick Burroughs]

Hi Tony

 

I have just built the Sky 40 from the SLEC kit.  All who have flown it love it!

 

Just one thing though, the SLEC plan is slightly larger than the free RCM&E plan which makes it impossible to build the wings directly on the plan.  This was not a problem for me though as the precut spars and ribs fitted perfectly and I just built the wings flat on my board.  Possibly thsi could be a major problem for a novice.

 

ps I contacted SLEC about this and they said they would look into it.

 

Nick

 

pps How do I send a review of the build to RCM&E?

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Contact details are in the page top tab Nick.

[Doug Ireland]

Hi David. When you flew the 62" Spitfire from Tony's plan did you happen to notice if the aileron servos were minis or micros? The reason I'm asking is I'm building the 62" Hurricane at the moment and am having doubts regarding the micro servos I bought for it. As both models are the basically the same size I assume that the servos would be the same.

 

Servos are JR NES-331

[David Ashby - Moderator]

Doug, The Hurricane is here in the office so I've just checked and it has Hitec HS82MG's in the wing with std servos in the fus. However I'd opt for metal gear mini servos for the Hurricane and Typhoon if I were building one to be honest.  That's just me though. 

Edited By David Ashby - RCME moderator on 09/04/2009 07:47:31

[Doug Ireland]

Thanks David, I have a pair those Hitec servos in another model so I may just hi-jack them!

[Tim Mackey]

Seconded. 85 or 65s at the least I would say.

[Roy Thompson]

Just started building the Douglas DC-3 from the plan pack, which has sat in the loft since 2004. Fast builder me

 

I would like to know if since then there are any mod's  or changes to the plan I should know about ?

 

I intend to use 3s Lipo's & two inrunners for power, so will this cause me any problems setting up the C of G?

 

Any tips on marking up / cutting out  the slot for the tailplane?

 

So far the plan pack has been a joy with lovely wood and nicely cut parts

 

 

Edited By Roy Thompson on 02/08/2009 23:40:23

[Craig Carr]

Hi Roy,

 

Built the exact model about 3 year ago.  No Mods or changes to the plan.  I used 2 outrunners though (I think they were each 350 watt) ie 700 watt (ish) in total re a 7 to 8 pound model.  Each motor powered by a 3200 3 cell Lipo.

 

Used the outrunners to swing a 9 inch prop...  you may need to check the specs of your inrunners as they are usually for smaller props.

 

Cof G should be ok, carried a seperate RX pack and opto isolated the ESCS (removed the red wire that goes to the RX).  The 2 lipos need to go in the very front of the nose for balance so I made the whole nose removable (on balsa dowels and magents)....  

 

Re flying it the model has a horrible characteristic of always dropping the left hand wing on take off...  You need loads of speed before before applying up elevator for rotation.  Spoke to Tony and apparently its a characteristic of the wing being tapered at the end.   Think a lot of DC3 models suffer the same problem.

 

See a video of my DC3 on take off and you will see what I mean re the wing drop.  Its on our club website at http://www.bvrmc.co.uk/video_31.html

 

Regards

 

Craig 

[Roy Thompson]

Hi Craig

 

Yep I see what you mean. My GWS one WAS the same, the derided spiral of death!

I was hopping Tony design was better than that.

 

Quick question did you do the steerable tail like on the plan?

I've Just spent two many hrs  building one of my own. I couldn't see how you would fit it if you made one like in the plans(I could just be thick). In Tony's write up it looks like he used a nylon tail wheel mount on the prototype, fitted from the outside.

 

Any ways thanks for the reply

 

Regards 

 

Roy