Building the Nijhuis Lysander

[Supermario]

Hello

While i'm waiting for a friend to laser cut the u/c and the other metalic parts of the Lizzy

I'm making the spats.

Very dificult task. The cut lines for triming the spats d'ont see very well.

I decided to open the spat like you see for better glue the interior  and better adapt the spat to u/c. I can also put the wheel and the axel later. And is more scale like. What do

you think Terry.

 

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

Wish i could do that

 

I must get the vac form set soon! Depends on the amount in the kitty(bank :P)!

[Terry Whiting]

Supermario,

 

Precisely what I was doing, as I never make an undercarriage with permanently fixed wheels.My axels are drilled, and the wheel is held in place with washer and miniature split pin.

  I agree, the mouldings could have had better definition lines to cut to, but I had enough waste material (ABS) plastic to make the insert.

The glue I used was Revell plastis glue, it virtually valcanizes the plastic together. 

 

The opening also give better access when fitting the landing lights, and looks more to scale with no weight penalty. I have also made and fitted the 9 cylinder head blisters to the cowl. Just as another little scale feature.

 

 

Doug,

 

When all my models were I/C,  I had no trouble with Ronseal polyurethane satin varnish.

The real oily areas I used the clear varnish first, then recoated with satin.  

Edited By Terry Whiting on 27/11/2009 09:40:46

[Doug Ireland]

Thanks Terry, I've asked this same question on other threads but you were the only person that bothered to offer any advice.

 

 

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

What! the cowl doesn't have blisters? why not just make your own cowling out of balsa and save a bit of money? I would have thought the cowling would have the blisters and that would be the only reason to actually have it vac formed :s

Edited By Bruce Richards - Moderator on 28/11/2009 08:38:30

[Terry Whiting]

Doug, no problem.

I forgot to say, the reason for  'clear' first  where it's likely to receive plenty of oil, I was told

many years ago that matt and satin can let oil leach through, clear made the barrier.

 

 

Peter,

I think the cowl would have been in two halves if blisters were added to the vac mould, and I'm sure it would not be as  rigid as the all one piece.,    then you do not have to include blisters, but it's worth one hours work.  

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

If it doesn't comes with all the complicated bits, why is it so expensive?

[Doug Ireland]

Everyone has to make a living Peter

[rookie jim]

Hi there,

hopefully i can attach some photos of my progress on the fuselage.

i have started covering between formers F1 nd F2. the stringers arent glued in just dry fixed. I eventually worked out that on F4 the stringers go halfway on former F4 and the covering from F2 also finishes in the middle of F4.

 

Not sure whether the pictures will work

 

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 Jim

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

Congrats Jim, but thats the easy bit! really starting to feel bad about mine seeing supermario's. For some stupid reason i thought the elevators were supposed to be constant chord, gonna have to rip them off and redo 'em Maybe i need a bit more patience, anyone know where i can get some cheap patience?

 

I think in the magazine it gives enough information for the experienced builder but for the more newer to plan built construction, i.e me! whose only moderately successful plan build was a miss demeanor :s that didn't fly right, i think i will be taking my time a bit more.

 

Also, i fear i may be coming down with a fever, i have started enjoying tidying up!!! I have also been bitten by the autogyro bug and am itching to build one!!! oh little world, won't thy grant me more than one life time?

Will hope to post some more pictures of my lizzie in my build log which by now has probably fallen back into the mass of old threads on pages far forgotten, i will go now before i start going all poetic!

Edited By Peter Savage on 01/12/2009 00:34:34

[kiwi g]

Bit of advise peter.

Slow down its not a race. study the plan.

Remember measure twice cut once.

I dont have the pleasure of instructions , but the plans are clear. if you arent sure about something from one elevation look at the plan from another elevation.

All the information is there you only need to study the plan.

[Klippy]

Hi Kiwi, PM me your e-mail address and I'll scan you the instructions from the Mag.

[Terry Whiting]

Hi Jim,

 coming on nicely, but one little mistake which you can easily rectify, the fuselage sheeting is in a continual piece from F1 to that  of F4, but not right across F4, allow 3mm of F4 for the stringer gluing.   .

 The singular piece of sheeting from F1- F2 is  where it rises to meet the canopy.

 If any sheeting feels stiffish, just  moistening slightly on it's outer side, wait a couple of minutes before gluing.  

Edited By Terry Whiting on 01/12/2009 11:24:46

[rookie jim]

Terry,

I hadnt realised that but when i look at TN's build pictures i can see that now. I think i was confused because the wood was too stiff. I will try your moistening method. Just one question i assume the grain of the sheeting goes lengthways.

 

peter,

yes you must put some more pics on your blog. I use them to check what i am doing.

 

 

Thanks for your help guys.

 

Jim

[Supermario]

Hi Jim and Peter

I hope I'm not too late

I can give a tip for glue the stringers

When I began to glue mine, following the "orders" of the plan, I realise I was doing a mistake.

Half

of the hole of the formers became empty and I decided to do like the image.

Is much easier to do and we win a better surface for future sheeting gluiyng.

 

[Supermario]

Hi Jim and Peter

I hope I'm not too late

I can give a tip for glue the stringers

When I began to glue mine, following the "orders" of the plan, I realise I was doing a mistake.

Half

of the hole of the formers became empty and I decided to do like the image.

Is much easier to do and we win a better surface for future sheeting gluiyng.

 

[Supermario]

Hi Terry

I follow your idea and I went to a chinese store and a bought a flashlight that

cost 1 pound.

The flashlight have too lamps with reflectors and everithing.

But I need to make a glass for the spat ( I d'ont Know if is the correct word)

And because today is holiday in Portugal I make

1 - A balsa wood peace with the shape of the hole of the spat... and I d'ont describ no more because with the image is all explained.

Now I get a few glasses.

Terry if you need two for your lizzie just tell, I'm glad to send you by post ( this is valid for all of you other members of this thread)

Mário

[rookie jim]

Supermario,

no you werent too late about the stringers.  not there yet but i can see that it is a very good idea. solves the problem of trying to fit the stringers halfway on the former. also gives more surface to spread glue on.

 

will give it a go when i get there.

 

Jim

[rookie jim]

Supermario,

just a thought. to use your method of fixing the stringers i assume you fit them first then then sheeting rather than as in the magazine which suggests the sheeting first. I cant think of any reason why the stringers cant be done first an you?

Jim

[Supermario]

Jim

I just read the magazine trying to find answers for doughts that I have concerning the constrution. For the stringers I just follow the list that TN puts in the plan.

I think is better to glue the stringers first and do the sheeting after.

I alert you, like the scetch I post, not to sheet the front of the fuse to have a place to align the stab and fin and to align the tube and carbon rods for the wings.

If you need some more help, just post it.

[Terry Whiting]

Mario,

Thank you for the kind offer, but I have made my landing light lenses (Glass) from clear acrylic as you have done, I used  a similar method in making the cowl blisters, also from oddments of the same material.

 

 

[Roger Adams]

I remember reading an article about building a Lysander from the Denis Bryant plan in the first RCM&E that I bought.  The builder made the reflectors for his landing lights with egg shells. IIRC the eggs werehard boiled, and then the dumpy end was glassed to give a bit of strength.  The egg was then opened and the inside of the shell was spray painted.  Also had the advantage of being able to eat the mould

[Hugh P]

Hi all, new to the blog.
I have been reading the posts while I have been collecting a 'kit of parts' and the project is due to start early next year. I am lucky enough to live only 22 miles from both Duxford and Shuttleworth and have several photos of both examples. They can all be veiwed on my web site at www.hughp.co.uk ther's even one in 3D.
My biggest problem with the build is the U/C. You can buy 6082T6 3" x 1/8" x 2000mm from AluminiumWarehose.co.uk for £4.85 with postage at £14.95 (all plus vat) for as much metal as you require. But how the heck do you bend it. I have a 3" vice but nothing bigger. Carbon fibre would be great but not homemade.
I was also thinking about Flaps, I have a DX6i TX and I was thinking of putting the flaps on the gear switch and then have an aileron/flap mix, this would the give aileron, aileron/flap and by using the gear switch the normal inboard flaps, I have not tried it, what do you think.
For the Landing light I have a cheap torch reflector from RAINBOW stores and have used a White LED from Maplins (NR73Q) + an 8.2ohm resistor (M8R2) to limit the current to 20ma. Run from a single cell 90ma LiPo this gives a VERY bright light that will run for ages on one charge and no heat build up in the spat. All up weight - not a lot. I think one of these LED's in a reflector will be plenty bright enough.

[Pete B]

Hi Hugh, welcome to the forum.

I've a DHC Beaver with flaps and, with my Dx6i, I used a Turnigy servo speed reducer (which also acts as a 'Y' lead) to connect the two flap servos. It took a little while to set up the servo rods and the EPA's but I can now adjust the EPA to give me as much or little flap as I need.

This does leave you the option of drooped ailerons but this increases the potential for tip-stalling. I've found flaps alone more than adequate for slowing down my model. Given the tapered planform of the Lysander wings I'd think hard before drooping them

 

Pete

[Peter 'Ivanna Crashalot' Savage]

I would love a few of those lenses supermario, why the heck did i not think of that way? maybe i will wait till i get to closer to when i will need them