stu knowles

Hi to ALL Thanks for looking in. Does anyone have to December 2000 issue of Quiet & Electric flight?? If anyone can help I'd be pleased to hear from you, either to buy the mag itself or for a copy or photograph of the pages of the plan review inside. Its the Gigant glider by Chris Golds. Thanks

there are a few options available on the Sarik website so it rather depends what you ordered / paid for https://www.sarikhobbies.com/product/revolver-ii-autogyro/

The hand painted insignia and cowl look amazing! It all does

That's looking really good Ron, as you say, it brings the surface to life. I've done balkenkruez with nothing more than masking tape, its easy enough if you plan ahead. No vinyl cutter required.

There was a vid doing the rounds a few years ago of a scale German WW2 three engines seaplane flying alongside a MPX Twinstar, both FPV equipped. Even though it was the early days of FPV they were very good at flying in formation and station keeping. (Goodness knows how much practice they had had). Your vids show lots of promise, I guess that you will be removing the canopy hoop to give you a better field of view? I have always thought that FPV flying with fixed wing would be a very popular extension to the hobby but it hasn't really caught on. Please keep posting your vids and let us know what equipment you find best to use. Wishing you success! Stu

The Seastormer looks amzing Nick, beautiful finish.

I did some trials with white polystyrene fom cores covered with brown paper and PVA. Some local glasscloth reinforcement, all of which worked to a greater or lessor degree. One had 1/4 square balsa top and bottom spars let in before covering, another had carbon tow 'spars' top and bottom and another had the BP covering overlaid with 50GSM glasscloth & epoxy. They all flew well. From memory, the lightest had the carbon spars and just BP/PVA stressed skin. The only balsa was the leading edge and a hinge spar. No veneer at all

On my past models I have found a slight tendency for the brown paper to lift and curl away from the cut edges around the servo bay for example. Anywhere where there isn't the overlap. I now iron a narrow strip of scrap solartex around the edges of the openings and try to wrap it around inside. The peel back has often not shown itself for a year or so, I guess it could be that the edges are more vulnerable to absorbing damp from the atmosphere?

Apologies fpr crashing Ron's thread but these are half decent images of the FW 190 panel which builder may find useful

I have used the PVA/BP covering on several models, large and small with (I think) very acceptable results. I use the same basic methods as have been outlined here. Paste the dull side, Let it 'ease' for a few minutes, Apply to the model working both side of the wing or fus equally. Once all covered I paint the whole thing and hang somewhere that can dry on all sides equally. any bubbles in the BP will shrink and disappear as it dries but even if it doesn't a light application of an iron will remove all trace. Lightly sand and then paste with PVA all over again. The next sand pretty much eliminates all signs of overlap. I usually paint with car celly but I look forward to trying emulsion match pots. Interesting to see all the variations on a theme. I only use BP on all sheet surfaces but a couple of years ago Ron introduced me to Laminating film which is first class on open frame. All power to everyone on here for showing the way on model building and showing that it doesn't have to cost a fortune to have a god looking model which is different to everyone elses.

I agree, Every single year at this time we have this self flagellation and the same old arguments going round and round. Agree to differ and move on?

Apologies, I've looked more closelyand seen your light bowl plug. Very clever! The CG on yours looks to be in a reasonably conventional position. I seem to remember Chris Golds publishing his plan and in the write up it was much much further back than would have been thought safe. No arguing with how yours flies though. It looks really good.

Well done on the L/light bowls. I take it that you moulded your own? I have tried a 3D printed version of the same but it was a bit thick walled. Great build by the way, You should be very proud of the achievement. Stu K PS A sliding canopy would look good 🙂

Dihedral Brace?

My first thought was to either neck down both or block off one outlet. On a zenoah 26 I would normally use a 17 x10 or 18x 8

Definately name your price. Personally cant be doing with the 'Offers' idea, I would always scroll on by

Its not a bad idea to move the tailplane to ontop of the fus rather than underslung. The lower position gets a battering from grass

I don't think that you wil get a Zenoah 23/26 in there without most of it hanging out in the breeze. I had a 90 two stroke in mine many years ago. I would be looking for a 120 of some kind or perhaps one of the 20cc dle petrol which are much smaller than the zenoahs

Nice!

Touch of Cloth? Simon Lawson from the Isle of Axholme neaar Doncaster. A great guy all round

Roy, Those cockpit dashboard panels look outstanding!. Dash panels are something that I like to do and have had quite good results using a Craft robo cutter to cut the holes in card. I've never been able to make a job of the dial rims. How have you done yours?? Nice compass' too

Hang on! twin legs have less rotational stress than a single leg. The joiner will need a flat or a dimple but it should be fine.

Thinking about it since my last post, I think that I left quite a bit of wood out of that kit. It was a bit over engineered

Hrllo Geoff, I bult one of those, probably from the same source. I could never get mine to take off, or ROG in parlance of the day but it flew well from a hand launch. Mine flew quite a bit in the first year but hasn't been out for a long time. Think of the dust as a sort of patina

For larger (70" plus) 50 gsm cloth would be the norm. I have glassed foam cores with 80 gsm cloth over a brown paper/pva covered foam core and no veneer. It worked on a simple wing without wheel wells and would have doubed up as a cricket bat on days when it was too windy to fly. You don't have to cover the whole wing in the same cloth. Perhaps 50 gsm overal with heavier or doubled up over the centre section and wheel wells. I have also experimented with a carbon tow laid under the glass, top and bottom in lieu of spars and that seemed to work very well for no weight at all