Nick Cripps

Having already "goosed" two speed controllers, I think I would want to check out the other common factor, ie, the motor. I would remove the motor connectors and check each of the 3 coils with a multimeter on the resistance setting, including moving the wires around a bit to check if there is an intermittent connection or short.

All joins will be invisible when it's covered...

I've got some 3s 2200mAh Zeee batteries which seem to be performing ok so far. They haven't got many cycles yet and I haven't pushed them too hard so their longevity remains to be seen. I've also got some of the same lipos in the Voltz brand which have had a few more cycles and a couple of them have started to puff up already although that may have been because they were being hammered in my HK Skipper which has a "digital" throttle 😀. Having said that, the Turnigy batteries they replaced had also expanded (to a point I wasn't comfortable with keeping any longer), but that was after several years and many cycles in a variety of models. I've just bought some Youme Power 4s 3300mAh packs from Amazon but need to swap out the Deans connectors before I can try them. We'll see how they go...

That would be 10 types then.... Um, wouldn't that be 22?

There are 2 types of people in the world. Those who like closure.

Yet millions of people worldwide do exactly that when using their smartphone to navigate!

As a first approximation, measure the distance you need to raise the wingtip to match the desired height relative to the tailplane. Divide that measurement by the distance from the wingtip to the hingeline and then multiply the result by the vertical distance between the top and bottom hinges. This will give the rearward offset required for the bottom hinge (with the top hinge remaining in the same place, albeit twisted to match the new hinge axis). I don't think the dihedral will make any difference to this calculation so the principle of "similar triangles" should work.

How about a Ju-88 in a scale to match the Fw-190 so that we can build one of these 😉

Merry Christmas to my fellow forumites. Hope you all have a great day.

Perfectly within the rules now if you are a member of one of the associations that has Article 16 authorisation from the CAA.

I'd like to see a re-run of the La-7 as I procrastined too long the last time you produced some kits so that would be top of my list for single engine types. I'd also like to see a twin-engined model done in this format. The Mosquito is the obvious choice but the Mistubishi TK-4 mentioned earlier would be a very interesting alternative as would something like the Heinkel He-219.

The Windermere Model Waterplane Flyers gathered today at Kitridding Farm for our annual Christmas meal with a bit of flying thrown in before and after. Glorious weather (apart from the freezing temperatures) saw 8 flyers and an assortment of electric models at the lakeside. Rogues gallery: FMS Ranger and Kingfisher are perfect models for this site: All is calm at sunset:

Have you tried DB Sport and Scale

I'm right-handed. I stretch each band from the left-hand side of the fuselage (as I look at it) to the right. That means on one side the band is fitted front to back and opposite on the other side. I've never had a wing lift in flight but I watched one of our club members win our looping competition when he accidentally fitted only 2 bands to his Wot4 and the wing lifted on every loop, tightening the radius. He won by a country mile!

Good to see you've thought this through Richard. I've got some of the Ripmax ARTF versions of the Balsacraft warbirds and the finger-holds on these are rearward of the cg. It's an absolute pain trying to launch them when, as you say, opening the throttle causes the model to pitch downwards at just the wrong time. I've resorted to trying to stretch my little finger forward for support but a good launch is a bit of a lottery.

You mean like this, GG? I replaced the elevator pushrod on my Wot4 with a snake to help minimise water ingress when flying it with floats. As the pre-cut slot is well forward of the tailplane, I added a short balsa wedge in the angle to provide support to the snake outer.

Take the photo on your phone and email it to yourself. Open the email on your desktop and download it. You can then use the methods outlined above to copy the photo into your thread.

Nice to see you back on this Steve. I think you'll need some extra support around the ends of each servo to support the covering.

From underneath.

Seagull make models which are rebadged and sold under other brand names, for example the Hangar 9 Carbon Cub. Carden Aircraft are an American company which cater to the large-scale aerobatic market over there.

I noticed that the last issue came with an extra mag if bought at a newsagent but I didn't receive anything as a subscriber.

It does! I'll claim 100% then.

I thought the last one was radio

2 wing panels?

That's it, all done, hope you enjoyed it. Anyone get 25/25? Feel free to use any of these for your own club quiz night - I'm sure you can think of plenty more to add if you do.