Jump to content

Kim Taylor

Members
  • Posts

    612
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Kim Taylor

  1. It has become clear to me over time that some, if not all, planners who devise the layout etc, of roads and junctions have never driven in their lives. Just the sheer stupidity of some junction layouts, signage, etc. is mindboggling, and even more annoying because it would cost no more to do it 'properly' in the 1st place. And yes, the 'smart' motorway is an accident waiting to happen, given that broken down cars / emergency crews have been wiped out whilst on the hard shoulder, what chance would they have in a lane 'closed' by a few flashing lights. Kim
  2. Come back just to add to the above, below is a cut and paste from an earlier thread, and in my experience, is accurate: As far as I can see, there's no difference between EU and the rest of the world these days, so as long as the goods are worth less than £135, then taxes should be paid by the seller locally, and there's nothing extra to pay by you. Have a look here https://www.gov.uk/goods-sent-from-abroad/tax-and-duty and see what you think. Kim
  3. I haven't bought any film recently, but I have ordered a couple of LiPo's from the EU warehouse and these were delivered with no additional charges, just the carriage as shown at the checkout. It does depend on the total value of the shipment, the exact figure escapes me atm. You can look it up on the .GOV portal. Kim
  4. Instructions here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1WW-mvUNaceac_lx23rLNi1xRiCJXROe5/view The switching on / off of the gyro is done with ch5, but you MUST check that the gyro is moving the controls in the correct direction before flying. It's all in the above instruction book. Kim
  5. Nothing like the history, but I think I'm right in saying that Gene Haas still owns a majority share of his eponymous F1 team... but I digress R.I.P Sir Frank, your like will never be seen again, certainly not in F1 anyway. My condolences to his family and friends. Kim
  6. That's what I do with my 'Lite' which has a fixed nosewheel. Works perfectly well for 'normal' steering, lining up on the strip, etc. but I do struggle to turn it around after landing if there's a good breeze blowing. Have promised myself a 'post landing extra rudder travel' mode but haven't got around to actually doing it yet - too busy moving house (again!!).? Kim
  7. Jonathon is on the money - the supplied cowl is next to useless as once you cut it to clear the i/c motor it's floppier than a floppy thing. I threw it away and did a built up one using some chunky balsa sheet I had left over from something. Once you get it sorted, it's a REALLY nice flyer. I was complimented only last weekend on the flying performance of mine (now electric). I can assure you that my flying skills are no better than average!! Kim
  8. I certainly needed to put weight on the back when mine was powered by a .61fs. Now that I've converted it to electric, I use the battery to balance it, pushing the battery back through the former and over the wing. Red Baron - No plan but yes to canopy. TBH it's not the nicest kit I've ever built - I felt it needed beefing up in various areas, I've now sheeted mine all over, which makes it noticeably stiffer. It must have added weight, but I've not weighed it, so can't be specific. Kim
  9. I think 911's username gives it away. Or maybe easy for me to say as I've been following his trials and tribulations with his Lola-Porsche for some years!! ? Kim
  10. Easiest way to get a 'feel' for what's involved would be to download OpenTX Companion to your computer and have a play with that. For what it's worth, I changed to OpenTx on a Taranis X9D 2019 and was expecting to struggle at first. In fact, I found it relatively straightforward to set up, using the built in wizard for the basic setup, then adding features such as throttle cut and flaperon having followed an online tutorial. I would say that as long as you're willing to 'forget' what you've done previously, it's a non issue. Hth Kim
  11. As far as I can see, there's no difference between EU and the rest of the world these days, so as long as the goods are worth less than £135, then taxes should be paid by the seller locally, and there's nothing extra to pay by you. Have a look here https://www.gov.uk/goods-sent-from-abroad/tax-and-duty and see what you think. Kim
  12. Ron, I believe that you use FrSky (as do I). Have you updated to the latest v2.3.?? firmware? (I haven't yet) If not, could this be the sudden control deflection glitch which said firmware was designed to fix? It doesn't look typical of the reported problem there though, which was (I think) a random full scale deflection for 0.8 of a second. I hope you get to the bottom of it and repairs to the LA-7 are not too difficult. Kim
  13. As far as I can see (although I haven't tried it yet personally) as long as the consignment value (minus carriage) doesn't exceed £135, then the vendor should be paying the VAT direct to HM Customs. According to Money Saving Expert: If you order online from the EU and the consignment value – the total order (minus delivery charges and taxes) – costs £135 or less, you shouldn't have to pay anything extra. VAT will be included in the price you're shown when you pay online – as it was prior to Brexit – and there's no customs duty to pay. As a result, you shouldn't face courier handling fees either. This is because £135 is the threshold above which customs duty kicks in (except on certain items, such as alcohol where it's lower) and it's also the point at which import VAT starts being charged. With orders of £135 or less, exactly how the VAT's accounted for may have changed. In the past, EU businesses with UK sales of less than £70,000/year could account for VAT in their own country – now all EU businesses must account for UK VAT (unless selling to Northern Ireland, in which case the old rules still apply). This has caused confusion and problems for some, but the key point is you should only pay the price shown at checkout and shouldn't be hit with any extra fees. So there you have it - I trust MSE more than I trust any govt. website, ymmv. Now over £135, it all potentially gets messy. Kim
  14. I don't know specifically on that Hitec servo, but in the old days of analogue servos, what you describe would normally be due to the feedback potentiometer going faulty. These days not so sure, but I'm sure that an expert will be dropping in soon to either correct me or confirm! Kim
  15. This is an old hobby horse of mine, but it's more likely to be standard 'unleaded' (E5) going stale. It's usually not so critical in things like lawnmowers, etc. but in a high stress situation I've known even 98 or 99 RON 'Super' unleaded go 'off' within a week when stored in a sealed but part filled can. Also I tried to start my generator (5.5hp Honda motor) recently for the first time for a year or more. Wouldn't have anything to do with it until I drained the old 'petrol' (which smelled really nasty) and put some fresh in, whereupon it went second pull. My motorcycle is not compatible with E10, due to the plastic petrol tank, so it's super unleaded for that (the tank has even swelled a bit previously using E5 unleaded). Don't know if our nylon? tanks would be affected like this. Kim
  16. All of the above prompted me to check the battery in my X9D+SE2019 'just in case'. I can report that the cells were balanced to within 0.01V using the onboard charger, so no issues with mine, but I'll keep an eye on it anyway.
  17. Is it higher powered, or are you equating a higher kV to higher power, which isn't necessarily so. The cheaper motor is a smaller can length, which would normally indicate lower power (ultra simplistic, I know). The acid test is the maximum amps which the motor windings can operate at and the size of prop which it'll turn. In the case above, the larger kV motor will be limited in what prop you can use, assuming that the same battery is used.
  18. I do know what you mean, there's a lot more that's not in the manual than there is in it. Thank heaven for t'internet!!? Kim
  19. Glad you've found the answer you needed. Just for accuracy and balance, it's on page 25 of the manual. Kim
  20. You're right, of course. I was thinking more along the lines of the VQ kit + H-K or similar retracts & olios, which may well be a bit cheaper, although H-K prices have climbed recently too. Kim
  21. Prices have got a bit salty recently, haven't they? Alternatively, look at VQ kits at Sussex Model Centre (and others) and you'll find the same kit for £214.95. You're welcome!!? Kim
  22. Are fax's still even a thing?? Seriously though, from what little I know, Chris is still operating, but I guess only on a part time basis. Doesn't explain why no response to emails, though. WRT sourcing a kit, try Sussex Model Centre - I know they'll send stuff pretty much anywhere, but obviously price may become an issue. You wouldn't think it would be difficult, would you, although I do recall that the engineering company I worked for wouldn't (couldn't) export to Israel for political reasons - although that was a while ago, and the situation may have been resolved. Kim
  23. Hi Mitchell I haven't got a Ruckus, but I believe that the Riot has identical bits & bobs, so to answer your questions: 1. The 'threads' on the control rods aren't a conventional thread at all (unless changed recently) they're more like a self tapping or Archimedes screw. I can only suggest either taking the whole shooting match to your lms (if you have one) and match something up. Or someone may have already done this and be able to tell you what fits, or as a last resort, buy some from Century UK, who sell them as a spare part. 2. See 3. Assuming that you've already balanced the prop?? 3. Yes, the spinner is horrid. Replace with something better and hopefully your rasping noise will magically disappear. 4. I'd be surprised if you can't do what you're asking with the AT10, but I can't offer any advise on set up - I did the same on my Riot using my Spektrum DX8g2 and it was a fiddle, but I got there in the end. Never use it, though!! hth (a bit) Kim eta On my Riot, I'm using a c of g well behind the 'book' setting, which (with care) will allow you to slow the model down a bit more compared to a more nose heavy one. I don't know where you are with your c of g but I'd definitely be working at the back of the recommended range and beyond (only if you're comfortable, obvs, don't want to get the blame for you breaking it!!)
  24. Unusual one (for me anyway) today at the flying field near Brighton. Catalina flying boat coming in from the south east, transiting out towards Horsham / Guildford, passing about a mile north of us. Made a change from the boring old Spitfires out of Goodwood.? Kim
×
×
  • Create New...