Kim Taylor

My sympathies lie with the employees first and foremost. I guess that the product lines (if viable) will be sold on / taken up by others. I bags the Wots J Perkins is, I believe UK based - they certainly have a base in the UK (not the same thing, I know). Kim

It means that (in flight) when you pull the nose vertically upwards and give it full throttle it'll go up and up and uuuuuuuuuuuuuuup. Unlimited. You get the idea eta If you've got one, put a 12x6e or 12x7e prop on it. More than enough power for now - you can always prop it up for more oomph when your brain has caught up with it (no offense intended). Kim

Good to go! 👍

That's almost frightening!! Maybe because the control surfaces are aerodynamically balanced? Either way, food for thought. Kim

Logic RC are the main repair agent in the UK, maybe try them? (I know you're in France, but don't know if anything is set up there) The switch should be easy enough to source from any component supplier though - the handle, not so much Kim

Your arming plug can be any format, it doesn't have to match anything else on the model, just be man enough to carry the current. I tend to use XT60 because 1. All my 6s models are on XT60, so I've got them in stock and 2. They're easy to solder As per above, my gut feeling is that is too much prop, but you've got to start somewhere I suppose. I would have gone maybe 12x6 as a starting point. I'm assuming in all of this that you've got some means of checking the current draw with the motor / prop flat out? If not, that's your next and very important purchase - very easy to overload something and let the magic smoke escape!! 😮 Kim p.s. Are you intending to use 4 or 6 cells?? the 14x6 would probs work on 4, assuming no clearance issues as noted by Learner

Hi Toto Any switch capable of reliably handling the load involved in these applications (and not made of unobtanium and costing thousands of £) will be too big / heavy. The way to go is with an arming plug between the LiPo and esc as (I think) previously described on this thread. Couple this with the throttle cut switch setup on your transmitter, interlocked with the throttle stick, so that it can't be switched on until the throttle is shut (it's all in your transmitter manual) and you're as good to go as you can be. Then it's just a matter of having the procedures in place to ensure safety - I tend to switch on the Tx, ensure throttle cut and stick low, insert arming plug (to liven up the Rx), and control check. All of the above having ensured that IF everything you'd put in place were to go wrong, you and nobody else is at risk from the prop suddenly starting. If you need to quickly disconnect the LiPo, simply pull the arming plug, job done. Much more reliable than a switch. Kim

I think you can get them with or without connectors soldered on. Also, you don't have to use Overlander esc with their motor - I tend to use Hobbywing, for instance, but you must do what you're comfortable with. It's easy enough to solder on the correct connectors to the esc, just order up some spare EC5 connectors, you're bound to need them in the future. Changing the connectors on a LiPo is no more difficult, you just need to be careful and very sure not to let the two wires touch. When I've done it, I tape the wires individually to the side of the LiPo and only have one 'loose' at any one time. The bigger they get, the thicker the wire though, so you need a decent size soldering iron to be sure to get a good joint. Hope that all makes sense - it's getting late!! Kim eta the 5055/06 is a bit of a whopper for the Domino, but it'd probably work, as I said in the other thread, it's the prop what governs the power, not the motor. eta (again) Just looked at the Electrospeed packages and the 40 would do the job, although a bit light on the motor, but over 700W will more than do for a trainer type. Don't be sucked in to the 'must have 150W per lb' line of thought, a trainer needs no more than 100W / lb and would fly on less, albeit not fast or unlimited vertical. I'd still go for the Overlander 🙂

If not the Overlander, they're sure to do something similar - they're proprietary motors badged up for different manufacturers as far as I can see. If not, Sussex Model Centre are showing them in stock as I write. Esther is most offended - she says she's definitely not a he and never has been. 😄 Boxer / Staffie cross, and as mad as a box of frogs. Kim

I'd go for something like the Overlander 4250/06 800kV and a 60A esc, if running 4S. If you want to use the 6S that I seem to remember you've already got, go for the 500kV 4260/06, again with a 60A esc. The 4S would be better really - less weight to lug around. Oh, and this is Esther, our Boxer X Kim

If you're looking to do a .46 equivalent, then you'd need to prop your motor to around 800 - (maybe) 900W. Revs wise, on a 6s you're going to be seeing around 9000rpm (allowing for a little 'slip') so pretty much on the money for a .46 propped with something like an 11x7 or thereabouts, but the proof of the pudding, etc. FWIW I've got a Seagull PC-9 .46 size, running 6s 3000 battery, 500kV motor (4060 can size, from memory) and that needs a 13x8 to give 750 - 800W. On the other hand, my Gangster 63 running the same battery, with an oversize (5060 from memory) motor will produce the same on a 13x6.5. I put this down to the larger motor running closer to its synchronous speed (kV). I now use a 12x8 which gives a bit more top end and will still pull unlimited vertical. I usually size the esc to the motor, rather than the absorbed current - just makes it easier down the line when you re-purpose the motor into something else. You don't have to, though. Kim

That's the beauty of electrics - as long as the motor is adequately sized (or larger than required) then you just prop it to the power you need to fly the 'plane. So for instance, lets say your motor will produce 1500W on a 15x8 prop whilst drawing 70A, but the model only needs 900w, just go down on the prop to a 12x8 and see what you're drawing (ecalc can give you a ballpark figure to make life easier, but I've never used it). Play with the prop size, until you get the power you require, measure the amps and be amazed at how few you're drawing. Your 6s 5000 will now last twice as long as when you were pushing the motor to its' limit and everything will be nice and lightly loaded, cool running, etc. In simple terms, the prop is what governs the power being produced, the motor delivers exactly what the prop will absorb at its running speed (governed by the kV rating). All of the above numbers are indicative, not real - you would need to test (or run ecalc) yourself to tune your own setup. Kim

I haven't flown mine for a long time (long story) but iirc: I used a generic 4060 500kV motor, 6s 3000mAh LiPo, 60A esc, 13x8 prop. I went 6s because I already used them on other models, I'm sure it would fly on 4s on the right motor / prop. From memory, this showed somewhere between 700 - 750W input. At this, it's seems quite scale speed wise and is unlimited vertical. It's a bit porky - from memory 6 - 6.5lbs (partly my 6s setup, I know) so I wouldn't go with a lot less power. It likes to be going at a fair lick before it'll lift off, and it lands pretty hot, but once the wheels touch terra firma, it stays down and doesn't bounce. Generally a nice locked in flyer (and it's got a nice aerodynamic whistle on a fast fly by. My recollection is that the published c of g is conservative, but I'd have to put mine on the balance to find out for sure. hth Kim

A propos of nothing in particular, many years ago my son raced karts, then cars. My daughter rode horses (and still does, for that matter). Financially, it was a struggle for us. Their maternal grandparents flatly refused to contribute to my son's (in their eyes deadly dangerous) hobby, while encouraging my daughter in her chosen path. Now, I know which is the most dangerous, which over time has been proven by daughters visits to A&E and orthopaedic depts. and her broken & pinned arm, leg and ankle. No.1 son, however, has never broken a bone whilst competing over a number of years, although to be fair he did injure his lower back in a kart when he was 15, which has never fully healed. I have always ridden bikes - 'nuff said. Everything and anything can be dangerous, it's the old risk vs. reward conundrum. Kim

Saw all 3 flying east to west just off the south coast of the Isle of Wight at just after 16.00. Maybe they passed over Thorney Island en route? Kim

Sorry Paul, bang out of order, you have no knowledge of the circumstances, other than the (sketchy) report. reported to mods Kim p.s. if this is the way this forum is going - I'm oot

Is your DX6 a gen2 or 3? Eu versions of the gen2 don't support forward programming, apparently. Don't know why 🙄 Kim

And in what way is that any different to what Futaba have been doing for the last thirty years?? I'm not defending it, but Spektrum are no different to any other manufacturer - even FrSky are moving in that direction now, although (to date) their prices are still on this planet - time will tell if they have made the right decisions. Kim

It depends on WHO Spektrum see as their competition. Maybe they've joined Futaba and buried their heads in an adjacent sand dune. It seems to me that, other than those already 'locked in' to Spektrum, Futaba, etc then open source radios, maybe with multi protocol modules, are the future at the hobby end of the market. Kim

I've also had one Stab+ go suspect, but it's a moot point anyway as they're no longer available. Updated due to unavailability of the chip being used, apparently. The new Gen2 Stab with telemetry receivers look interesting - I may well try one in the future - available in 7 & 10 ch versions from about 32 sqids. Kim

I'm not sure about this particular model / setup, but when I first set up my old Apprentice (with AS3X/SAFE) I experienced similar and found that the 'Panic' button was operating in the wrong sense, which over rode everything else. Reversed the button within the transmitter setup, and all was well. Worth a look, at least Kim

Give that man a (virtual) cigar!! I knew someone would be able to give me a steer on this, thanks very much. Since my first post, I've repaired the wing (snapped at the 'step' where the aileron starts) and splinted it to ensure that the repaired spars are strong enough. I'll make good the covering tomorrow - won't be as pretty as the original, but the blue colour matches, at least. Then need to source a 55 - 60 amp esc (the one that came with it was 30A, so too small (on a 3s LiPo, which is my 'standard' small size) install an rx and give it a good ground test before committing aviation. I'll post up a picture when it's done. Kim

Hi all Sorry for the convoluted title, but I think it's self explanatory. I've been gifted a broken P51D 'Miss America' and I would like to i/d the manufacturer and hopefully find an instruction book. So - it has a built up wing of 1250mm span and has mechanical retracts fitted. The fuselage is a GRP moulding, with the built up tailplane and fin / rudder glued in place. There is no battery hatch - the wing has to be removed to fit / change the battery. It's actually very nicely made (but not very well built, if you see what I mean) and it's worth saving, even though the wing is currently in two (unequal) halves. Any clues anyone?? Can get pictures uploaded if you think it might help, but there's no real distinguishing features that I can see. Thanks in advance Kim

Yes, there will be a notch of some kind and a corresponding pip or pin in the crank case which have to be aligned as you push the liner in. Kim

Hi, You need to make sure that you have the latest firmware installed on your DX6 - downloadable from Spektrum website. To do this, you also have to have the Tx registered to you on their system - if you bought it new, you probably have this done already. I updated my DX8g2 recently to enable forward programming and it all works OK. If you have retracts and flaps, you won't be able to use the DX6 for AS3X / SAFE, which normally uses ch5, so as you've done, use the '8 Kim