Martin McIntosh

Threading the wire through three times as in the above photo is the correct way to do it but no need for crimps, just try pulling it out again and you will have no luck. Twice through the ferrule is asking for a failure, crimps, ca or whatever.

I bought some 8mm o/d and 6mm i/d on ebay for a u/c but a lot of drilling and filing was needed because you cannot fit a 6mm rod into a 6mm hole unless you are lucky!

I used HK three bladers on my o/d 81" Lanc. with 28-30 800kv TGY motors. Great until one of the weak props threw a blade. Tried some tougher ones which were useless so I changed to AliExpress 10x7 two bladers which are APC copies. No need even to balance them which was a real pain with the three blade props. Loads more thrust for no greater power input due to the higher efficiency and has been said you cannot see them in the air. About 18A max draw at full power for each motor. It is a very bad idea to reduce the high end travel on the Tx. Tried it, the ESC does not like it so don`t do it.

The response by my club was embarrassingly pathetic considering the number of members. One glow (mine), one diesel, four electric and a chuck glider despite ideal conditions. Only one committee member bothered to attend.

I had one very many years ago and it was a reliable motor despite being a finger biter. Does it idle? if not then someone may have turned the idle screw all the way in. Unscrew it about 2 1/2 turns then try again. They have a simple carb so there could well be a blockage of oil etc in the main jet.

I built the TN 134" quite a few years ago with two OS 52s and two 26s. Should have used four 52s because by model standards it was under powered, but the only tanks I could squeeze in were two 8oz and two 6oz. I stupidly attempted to fly it at the club scale day (it had been successfully flown previously a few times) but the conditions were not ideal and it headed for a tree. Automatically applying aileron was a mistake, I should have used rudder. End of model. I still have the plans which you are welcome to if you pm me. I now have an o/d 81" one which is electric on 28/30 800kv motors. You may remember it being shot down at Greenacres but was repaired. I had a weak HK 3 blade prop break in the air but was able to land on three. It now has APC 10x7 two bladers and they all now rotate the same way with no ill effects.

I take it that you are using a 3S 2200, not 4S which would cause your problem.

I had an enforced modelling layoff for about nine years and my oldest is now a 2m Dalotel, maidened at the first open aero meeting in July 2000. At nearly 5kg the OS 91FX would scarcely loop it but a YS 110 fixed that. Now sports an OS 120 FS and to say that it is showing its age is a bit of an understatement but it has been flown most weekends for 20 years. I have another slightly smaller one which uses a Dave Smith Models wing core which must be at least 40 years old.

Much to the surprise of my LMS (JDM) I bought a DS22 kit, no collective pitch, Meteor 60 for power, never flown a heli before, but I could fly it round in figures of eight OK. Despite a motor change it seized twice at a great height. The descent was rather difficult because of the time delay from shutting down the motor. Got fed up with 10 hrs repairing for one hr flying so got rid of it.

If this is of any help, I built a TN Mossie with Propdrive 50/50 motors and low Z capacitors fitted to the ESCs so that I could extend the battery wiring. On the second take off it suddenly slewed to the left, hit a bump which got it airborne and flipped over. Upon investigation the left ESC was only giving less than half power. I can only assume that the extended wiring caused damage despite being modified correctly, so just don`t do it.

I have been there quite a few times, and even at the end of a season the packs were not too bad. They also used Optipower fuel so no doubt got a good deal.

Presumably the 4 Max ones have a lower IR although I have never bothered to measure it. Against a Zippy Compact pack of the same capacity and C rating I have found that I get considerably higher power over a longer period. Not trying to say that the capacity is any different but the voltage remains more constant over the discharge curve. I recently had to test fly seven Rxs using a 3S 2200 and did not need a second pack.

Quality.

I suppose that most of mine are Zippy compacts which are mainly OK, but anything with nanotech in the name is utter junk. The best by far from HK are Multistars. Despite the price, I have recently bought some from 4 Max and they are in an altogether different league.

I use kiln dried block paving sand in large bags such as the ones supplied with oven cleaner. Works great with an even weight.

Just an update. I got some stronger props but the thrust was useless. After covid I decided that two blade ones would be much more efficient so got some APC style E ones from AliExpress for £1.50 each. Unfortunately the spinners I bought would not fit that style of prop and I was concerned that the lack of alloy ones would shift the cg back too much but no problem in the end. Static thrust is now very strong so took it up today. Pylon racer like take off but I can now fly round on half throttle comfortably. No problems and a slow landing was achieved with full flap. Quite chuffed.

I sometimes use a TGY 6i or 10i with ia6B`s. No problems, but a 10i will certainly not bind with an ia6. Send me a pm then your Rx and I can easily check it out if you wish.

No, not yet. I have a spinal problem making walking very difficult and carrying a model and kit out to the field even more so until it is resolved. However, one of my sons could be available to assist for the next couple of days when the weather conditions look to be ideal so I shall see.

That really did look tricky to do, makes me wonder how the designer got on with it. I take it that the ply was pre-cut in the kit. My 1:5 Vailley Hurri had some rather grey areas too, although I did not have a kit to work with. 96", 50cc petrol and 28lbs (mainly due to the stringers being spruce, thus requiring 1kg of lead in the nose). A doddle to fly and seems almost lighter than air after an engine cut.

Having tried most of the above which does not always stick well to balsa I now always use my copy of some stuff which used to be made in Germaany. Mix lots of Super Lightweight Fairing Compound from Bucks Composites with a little Halfords polyester resin then mix this a little at a time with hardener; you need to experiment to get it right for the required setting time (about 2mins). It sticks to anything, is very light and easy to sand.

CIS is excellent and can sometimes be bought in small or very large bottles. Titebond is maybe the best.

I have been glassing models for many years now and have tried a number of techniques, some fine and others not so. Initially I brushed it on then sanded down until blue in the face, good finish but far too much work. I have tried using peel ply a few times but it tends to remove too much resin and have now settled with brushing on resin in strips then going over with a foam or fluffy mini roller. This applies a minimal amount because I am always striving for the lightest possible result; another coat would just add weight. I then sand lightly with 120-180 grit and apply a coat of Halfords grey primer mixed with a little sanding sealer and lots of baby powder. This sands down very easily and fills the weave. A light sanding with finer paper is followed by a brushed coat of dope thinned 80% which seals the dusty surface and prevents the base coat of colour from pulling away with masking tape. Even in a warm room it is essential to leave the resin for at least 48hrs before sanding otherwise the paper will clog.

Well done Nick, I have still to go through that ordeal Looks fantastic in the air.

69 or 72 would not make that much difference. If the BT Mossie I tried to build is anything to go by, the construction is very flimsy and the hidden hinging a nightmare. A couple of competition flights a year would have been all it could have withstood had I not abandoned it. If very light then a 90fs may do it, but who would want to fly a Spit on a 2st? An OS 120 would seem to be the best option. Sorry that this is rather off topic.

A 155 is currently in one of my TN 72" Spits and fits OK so I would have thought that the BT one should be fairly similar. Best of luck with a BT design though.