Tim Kearsley

Don't let this thread degenerate into yet another IC vs electric please!

Say n'more!

Did you buy anything Dave?

On the version of OpenTx I'm using (2.3.14 from memory) the Override function is the first option that appears, as @RottenRow mentioned earlier in the thread.

Apologies, I made some silly errors in the above. It should read: What this does is, firstly, L01 is TRUE when the throttle input is less than -95 AND switch SE1 is in the "UP" position. L02 is a "sticky" switch and is set TRUE when L01 is TRUE and only set FALSE when switch SE1 is NOT in the "UP" position. The special function overrides the throttle channel with -100 when L02 is FALSE. The overall effect is that the throttle stick is disabled until SE1 is fully up AND the throttle stick is virtually fully off. It's only when both these are true that the throttle is enabled and it remains enabled until switch SE1 is switched away from the up position. Obviously replace SE1 with whatever switch you use for throttle cut and CH1 with whatever channel your throttle is on.

Assuming that you're using OpenTx, this is how I set up my throttle cut: On the logical switches screen: L01 a<x Thr -95 SE1^ L02 Stcky L01 !SE1^ On the special functions screen: SF1 !L02 Override CH1 -100 <Checked> What this does is, firstly, L01 is TRUE when the throttle input is less than -95 AND switch SE1 is not in the "UP" position. L02 is a "sticky" switch and is set TRUE when L01 is TRUE and only set FALSE when switch SE1 is NOT in the "UP" position. The special function overrides the throttle channel with -100 when L02 is FALSE. The overall effect is that the throttle stick is disabled until SE1 is fully down AND the throttle stick is virtually fully off. It's only when both these are true that the throttle is enabled and it remains enabled until switch SE1 is switched away from the down position. Obviously replace SE1 with whatever switch you use for throttle cut and CH1 with whatever channel your throttle is on.

I agree with Chris that measuring mAh consumed is probably the best way of getting a handle on likely remaining battery power. However, I still monitor pack Voltage as well. It's not unknown for a single cell to go U/S and show zero V - mAh consumed won't detect that scenario whereas a simple measure of pack Voltage will, or if you want to go the whole hog monitor each individual cell V if the sensor provides it.

That's certainly a possibility! Thank you.

Thanks @kc you've pretty much confirmed my own thoughts. I think you're definitely right in that I will see how the existing setup holds up under operating conditions before doing anything. Our club strip is well-maintained grass and is pretty even so maybe it will be OK. I should have said that it's not a steerable tailwheel so the tailskid idea would be OK.

I've just completed a 60-inch version of Vic Smeed's "Popsie" from the Belair kit of laser-cut parts. It's all OK and waiting for the maiden flight. I made a really silly, schoolboy error however. I used too thin/soft wire for the tailwheel with the result that, while it supports the weight of the model OK (about 4.5 lb), I suspect that it will not fare well under the takeoff and landing loads. The tailwheel is mounted on a ply plate in the rear of the fuz and it's going to be a right pain in the proverbial to completely replace with a stouter wire. Any ideas on how I could bodge this? I'm wondering if I could perhaps bond an additional length of wire on to the piece that's accessible to strengthen it? Any other ideas?

I bought two four Ohm, 100 Watt resistors from Amazon and wired them in parallel (to give effectively a two Ohm, 200W resistor) with heavy duty wire then mounted them on a piece of thick aluminium sheet, to act as a heat sink. This discharges a battery down to zero fairly quickly. For safety I only ever do this outside and the resistors do get hot despite the heat sink. Once fully discharged I connect the positive and negative battery leads together and dispose the battery at the local recycling centre. Be aware that discharging a LiPo to zero will result in the battery puffing up a LOT! I should add that my setup is only suitable for a maximum of 5S batteries as larger batteries will exceed the power rating of the resistors.

Very nice. I built the Cloud Clipper, which is from the same company and is sort of the big brother of the Cloud Walker. It flies beautifully and telemetry tells me that it will cruise around at not much more than walking speed consuming around 50 Watts! So a 3S, 2200 mAh battery gives a decent flight time.

Sorry Phil but it's you that's missing the point. There was no complacency whatever in what I said. I was merely pointing out the fact that fires caused by LiPo batteries are a very rare occurrence. I only ever charge my batteries while they are attended, I charge to 4.18V/cell, store at 3.85V/cell and never discharge to below around 30% of nominal capacity. When not in use my batteries are stored outside, in an outbuilding. Complacent? I don't think so. Because I agree with you that the consequences of a fire are too horrific to contemplate.

As in all other areas of life you have to get things in perspective and avoid the sensationalism that pervades everything. You get to hear about the fires, whereas you don't hear about the thousands, if not millions, of occasions where lithium batteries are charged, discharged and used with no issue whatsoever. I'm sure I'm not unusual in that I've used lipos exclusively for my flying since about 2008. I've not had a single issue, not one.

I built the DB Mascot two or three years ago. I think the only mod I made was to put a servo in each wing rather than the one central servo as per the plan. I had many happy flights with it and was very sorry when it met its end in a mid-air collision! The wing was totally unharmed (I still have it) but the fuz was a write-off. I might build another fuselage in due course and put the wing back into service.

Yes, but where "free speech" includes insults and personal attacks then it becomes unacceptable on a public forum. Free speech has to be tempered with a degree of tact and common decency.

Funny how a thread on threads that get locked is heading that way itself.....

I learned Morse back in 1982 when it was a requirement of getting the (then) class A amateur radio licence. I learned initially with the aid of a computer program which would send random five-letter groups at whatever speed you required. I later found listening to real speech (on the amateur bands) more useful. I got myself up to about 14 words/minute (the amateur licence required sending and receiving at 12 wpm) and took the test up at Mablethorpe. I passed, thankfully, and changed callsign from G6TUA to G4WFT, which I've had ever since! I'm ashamed to say that I used Morse on air no more than two or three times and I'd struggle to read it at all now. Seems a waste really, given the effort it took to learn!

Well said!

I would echo that, I can't fault them. The Prime membership perk of "free" next day delivery is often very useful.

I'd agree with Andrew, David. You've got headroom to draw more than 30A (assuming the ESC is suitably rated of course). Not sure just what size of prop would be needed but get the current draw up to 45A, say, and Wattage up to 1kW+ and you're looking at 75W/lb which might be enough.

Crikey! That was one heck of a clear morning. Beautiful view.

I found the same, but I found the way around it is to click on the left-arrow at the left of the word "Membership'. This takes you to a menu from where you can select "Profile".

Perfectly put.

I sometimes wonder if people post stuff on here when they've taken something. I just can't follow the point being made - if there is one. 🤔