Robin Colbourne

Putting a piece of wire that is a good sliding fit inside the tube may help prevent any crushing. If you use copper wire or an aluminium welding rod then it won't blunt the cutting tool.

This is a comprehensive article on Profi Engines. I have one, but would have to check which one it is, as it was part of my late father's collection.

Or people who think its ok to turn up at a club's site and fly there without asking or having awareness of site rules.

Yamamoto was also the name of the Japanese aviator in "Those Magnificent Men in Their Flying Machines". The film was very popular in the early 1970s, so maybe that had something to do with it?

A friend of mine has is own flying site not far from a mobile phone mast. Spektrum is the only make of 2.4GHz radio which suffers interference from it.

The sad bit was, the Sanwa was a nicer layout as it had a flap quadrant lever on the side of the transmitter right under one's index finger, if they had had the Futaba internal build quality I would have been tempted.

Thank you Phil, that is very helpful. The FlySky FS-RM003 module appears to be still available. Would taking the case off allow the RM002 conversion process to be followed for the RM003?

The Sanwa Conquest was notorious for that. Usually it was the aileron potentiometer wires which failed first. Confusingly, Futaba called what they sold as the Futaba Challenger in the UK, the Futaba Conquest in the USA, although the Sanwa and Futaba products are to the best of my knowledge, unrelated, although of the same era and level in the market.

The card manufacturer or the reindeer?

In the UK, Phil Green & Shaun Garrity, of the Pontefract club are leading lights in 2.4GHz conversions If anyone comes across boards to allow FlySky-compatible conversions, I would be very interested. Looks like I've been pipped to the post by one of the gurus!

How about a piece of a PET fizzy drink bottle? If you abrade the face which will be against the model until it is opaque, then clean it with isopropyl alcohol or meths, it should stick with something like Foam 2 Foam adhesive. If you want double curature, use a piece from near the top of the bottle. Failing that, plastic toothpaste tube material appears to be very tough and flexible.

Bustergrunt, if you join the Flair Facebook group, Dudley Patterson, the original founder of Flair, is a contributor and he may tell you himself.

The engine bearers will be stronger if you take at least part of the lower face of the bearers all the way to the bottom of the backplate so you get more of a buttress or full length gusset effect. As you're 3D printing it you could even mould it with the engine mounting holes moulded in and counterbored hexagon holes to retain lock nuts. Some years ago I designed and a friend built a similar model to what you describe. That one was 36" span, symmetrical wing section , aileron/elevator control and used two standard size ACOMS servos and a DC Sabre 1.5cc diesel on the front. We flew it at our local sports field which for the most part was waterlogged in the winter. Great fun!

Your friend's original account may be untouched. The scammer can simply create or modify an account using a copy of your friend's profile photo. The scammer then contact the original friends wanting to re-friend them, as this adds an air of legitimacy to the new account. I did a bit of amateur sleuthing recently on a Facebook profile of a person in the UK who was allegedly scamming people by responding to wanted adverts and taking payment without supplying the goods. It turned out the cloned account had started as a person in East Bengal who had left his original profile picture at the very bottom of his list of photos. Not only that he still had some of his local contacts in Bengal as followers.

Handing one's mobile number out to the whole world may not appeal to a lot of legitimate sellers. Ok as a privately sent photo once the prospective buyer has made contact and maybe verified themselves somehow.

It is worth mentioning that in most cases, seller names, images and locations have been hacked from legitimate and unaware victims. This may not be the case with the particular individual to which you refer Brian.

A couple more HiBoys, this time in Hartlepool. The prices are in dreamland territory though. Whether the seller could be brought to his senses is anybody's guess: 2x Precedent HiBoys in Hartlepool

A quick google for red gasket paper suggests it contains asbestos and is still available in India. Various model engineering suppliers in this country have other colours available, probably without asbestos. What materials does it need to withstand, e.g. glow fuel, petrol, steam, what thicknesses and what temperature range did you have in mind. RS Components have a page on gasket materials Once you know what you want then you can look on Ebay or Aliexpress for a similar material, if necessary.

Hi Rich, Yes, this would have been about 1993/4. As I recall it was £2.60 for two bearers posted! I don't understand the relationship between Precedent and SLEC. I assumed Precedent was a trading name for the kit manufacturing part of SLEC, so when people talk of Precedent going bust or closing down, yet SLEC continued to produce some of their designs, I'm baffled. Roughly where are you based geographically? There is also this MK2 HiBoy in Clevedon: Mk2 HiBoy in Clevedon If I see any Hiboy kits that aren't just a box of offcuts, I'll post them here.

If you're looking for a Mk1 HiBoy, there is one in Wisbech: Precedent Hiboy Mk1 in Wisbech

I've been repairing a few similar ARTF trainers. By using clear laminating film it was possible to patch over the holes in open structure and attach the split printed covering to the back of the laminating film by carefully working in from the edges of the holes.

I bought a HiBoy Mk2 which had been part-built without any attempt to trim the tabs or holes which locate the fuselage parts. As a result there were 3mm gaps along all the join lines. Fortunately it had been built with PVA glue, so by leaving it in the bath overnight, the glue softened and I was able to dismantle the whole thing to component parts and scrape the remains of the glue off. The engine bearers, which, as I recall, incorporate side thrust and downthrust as well as being stepped from the front to the back, were badly drilled, but a call to Precedent got a new set on their way to me at a very reasonable price. Once all the tabs and holes were trimmed and the edges sanded flat, the whole fuselage went back together without any gaps at all.

Thanks Alan, I think mine must be the FMK F-15 then. This is FMK's picture from their advert:

Did Galaxy Models, or anyone else, make something very similar to the Raider 26? I have a model very much like it, but I'm pretty sure it has a foam of fully sheeted wing and the bit where the tailpipes go looks wider. It's not where I am at the moment, otherwise I would post a picture.

I've always wondered what happens to the centre of gravity on long aircraft such as the C-141 Starlifter when doing air drops. That last pallet moves all the way from the front of the cargo bay to the back, then goes off the ramp. Life must get interesting in the cockpit when its a twenty ton armoured vehicle going off the ramp.