Tom Ryall Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Edited By Tom Ryall on 27/02/2017 21:29:11 Edited By Tom Ryall on 27/02/2017 21:30:46 Edited By Tom Ryall on 27/02/2017 21:32:18 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ryall Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Having been out of the game for a while - any top tips on how to trim and bend the rod in situ? It seems fairly well fixed? Or thinking about it now I'm back inside and slightly warmer is it clevis off and pull it through and forwards so it can be trimmed/bent out of the a/c? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Denis Watkins Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 The bend inside the model is impossible to work on Tom, as you found Take off the servo arm, and reattach the rod inside, leaving the outside of the pushrod free to cut and bend Edited By Denis Watkins on 27/02/2017 21:40:15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ryall Posted February 27, 2017 Share Posted February 27, 2017 Thanks Denis - do you mean pull it all the way out of the plane before working on it? Are needle nose pliers enough to get a decent bend or do I need a set of specific pliers (loathed to spend more!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 I'd take the clevis off and pull the rod through just far enough to work on it unless you are very sure you will be able to feed it back into the outer. I find needle nose pliers are good enough for Z bends on thin wire. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Carpenter Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Tom . I hope that's not an Orange DSM2 RX in there ?😫 Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 You could use these, they just need a 90 deg bend and you can get them off without removing the servo arm. D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ryall Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Thanks to all - I'm going to get back in to it tonight when I get home from work - hopefully I won't trim too much off. I'm finding my way back in to the hobby against several competing demands but hopefully we will get there. The Aileron noise is the next issue to investigate. Colin - it is an Orange but fear not, it's only something I salvaged. I'm about to go for Lemon (?) Stab Plus. I haven't committed yet as I'm not sure on the mounting flexibility. The Riot has a smart recess for the Rx but that means standing the Rx on one end - I'm not sure that is ideal for Rx with Gyros. One set of instructions says it's fine - the other implies it needs to be flat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ryall Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Can anyone confirm - if I mount the Lemon Stab Receiver in the vertical (i.e on its end) can it be reset to accept this orientation by 'toggling'? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Carpenter Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Tom. I forgot you had a Lemon on order. My club mate fitted his upright on a small balsa plate glued on the rx mount. Stab rx then fitted right way up no problem. Wing still goes on ok. It's been a boon to him. Regards Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ryall Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Many Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ryall Posted February 28, 2017 Share Posted February 28, 2017 Servo arm done - slightly simple question though: how have people fixed/mounted their ESCs in the Riot? It doesn't seem to rest naturally in the nose with either the wires to the motor or the Rx wire preventing it lying nicely on any surface? A small bit of Velcro on wooden cross piece of the battery housing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Carpenter Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Mines cable tied to the wooden frame above battery box. Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ryall Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 Sounds sensible and what I'm looking at - it's just with the wires as they are they seem to be under tension one way or another. Cheer Colin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Carpenter Posted March 1, 2017 Share Posted March 1, 2017 While we are talking Riots - clubmate picked up one for £50 with bigger motor for 4S . A bit of fettling and a spare HK Donkey motor and it's flown today ! Bit of trimming and he's very happy ! Now he's got another airframe for spares , cheap ! 😁 Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ryall Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 Not a bad price! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyless Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 whot size wheel can put on the riot as we have a wet field in the winter the small wheels make the plane nose over Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Walby Posted March 2, 2017 Share Posted March 2, 2017 As big as you want unless they scrap the underside of the wing...Failing that hand launch There are some nice large foam wheels that are very light, failing that additional elevator travel and a good dose of expo on a function switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ryall Posted March 4, 2017 Share Posted March 4, 2017 We are getting there....Lemon Rx is in - new prop adapter fitted but the threaded part is significantly wider than the original and so the prop didn't fit. Drilled out one by hand but I feels ever so slightly off centre. I guess I need to acquire a stepped reamer it is unfortunately! The 'catching' aileron is actually the servo...not great for a brand new one so I may try contacting Century next week to see what they say. It certainly hasn't been a case of plug and fly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ryall Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Posted by Nigel Beaney on 28/10/2012 17:52:27:. Battery: ThunderPower 2700 3S 25C (Same weight as most 2200 packs) Prop: Standard 12x6 Results: 11.5V, 30.0A, 345W (Standard Results) Battery: Art-Tech 2500 4S 20C Prop: APC-E 10x5 Results: 15.3V, 27.9A, 426W Battery: Art-Tech 2500 4S 20C Prop: APC-E 10x6 Results: 15.1V, 32.7A, 493W (Motor Warm after short test) While I'm on a roll, could someone clarify what changing to a 11x7 prop would do? I've got one lying around so keen to recycle. Will it offer any benefits or be detrimental to to stock motor/esc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Harris - Moderator Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Posted by Nigel Beaney on 28/10/2012 17:52:27:. Battery: ThunderPower 2700 3S 25C (Same weight as most 2200 packs) Prop: Standard 12x6 Results: 11.5V, 30.0A, 345W (Standard Results) Battery: Art-Tech 2500 4S 20C Prop: APC-E 10x5 Results: 15.3V, 27.9A, 426W Battery: Art-Tech 2500 4S 20C Prop: APC-E 10x6 Results: 15.1V, 32.7A, 493W (Motor Warm after short test) While I'm on a roll, could someone clarify what changing to a 11x7 prop would do? I've got one lying around so keen to recycle. Will it offer any benefits or be detrimental to to stock motor/esc? My guess is that the motor may get very hot after a short test...unless you're using a 3S pack, in which case it should be OK - maybe a little slower acceleration on take off and marginally higher top speed. Edited By Martin Harris on 05/03/2017 14:20:52 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ryall Posted March 5, 2017 Share Posted March 5, 2017 Sorry yes, using a 3s 2200 25c Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mosquitoman Posted March 8, 2017 Share Posted March 8, 2017 Hope this hasn't already been covered, and my comment is about the Riot XL. My FIRST landing the plane got a wind sideswipe as it touched down, the left wing tip hit the ground the prop also. I don't think the tail was struck but fuselage came apart in front of the tailplane, breaking completely underneath and above on the right side, the lower centre join between the fus halves just wasn't there - no evidence it had ever been glued in the build. The fus had seemed very flimsy at this point, I had already noticed before I flew it. Took an hour and half to glue it all together and I drilled through the side foam panels from the back end forwards above and below tail with a 12"x 3mm drill to glue in some similar length carbon rods through the break area which meant they finished 6 inches ahead of the tailplane. The engine mount also cracked on the left side, had to take it all apart and glue back with Gorilla. This was such a soft tip-over shows some structural improvements could be in order. And when I tried to remove the battery the latch snapped off, so had to cut it all away to replace. The flight was impressive BTW, great climb out and very stable in an estimated 20mph wind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ryall Posted March 20, 2017 Share Posted March 20, 2017 Credit where credit is due: In a previous post I highlighted a 'noise' coming from one of the wing servos. I contacted Century, and within 48hrs a whole new wing was on it's way to me. It would have been quicker but they didn't have one in the blue as per the original. As such I opted for red and so now have a very nice (long may it remain) red, white and blue Thrust Riot ready for it's maiden. Weather didn't allow over the weekend. Thanks to James at Century and some very impressive customer service. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Ryall Posted April 19, 2017 Share Posted April 19, 2017 Well, I finally got back and last night was the night and a cold but nice evening with a 5-10kt breeze dropping off. I met someone at the club, who after I range checked (fine at 30m, no response from the Lemon at 37m?) took it off did one circuit to trim her and then handed across. I'm pleased to say I had half an hour of flying on 2 different packs with no issues fitting in 12 landings and take offs. I'm by no means back to where I was 20yrs ago but it was good to get it up and around and back down in one piece. First impressions - very stable, I didn't even switch on the stabiliser. Seemed a little underpowered, which is no bad thing at my stage, but throttle was either 75% and up or not doing a great deal. She was better with the new Overlander 35c 3S 2200 lipo. Landings were great and pretty slow although she needed a fair bit of elevator to hold the nose as she slowed down, again no bad thing but it's just getting used to it. Really enjoyed a successful outing - only down side is knowing I'm 12 landings closer to my next crash! I going to stick with my 3s Lipos but could anyone recommend me a prop that may give me a little more thrust? I'm less worried about speed more about power to climb out etc. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.