Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale

[funflyerColin]

Hello guys, yes i still follow the thread i bought 2-3 yrs ago 10m of Antique solortex for mine, that is when i get time to carry on refurbishing it. Wish i had more time to get her ready, haven,t flown at all this year .

[Nick Somerville]

So I have read and re read all the posts on sprung UC and have a question for those who have utilised gas struts of some form or another. Looking online there are lots available and in a variety of compression strengths along with some that have adjustable strength..... all measured in Newtons. Given that I can expect my Stampe to be around the 7kg mark how does one assess the overall required compression force required from a pair of struts?

Meanwhile progress is good on the new model. Tail feathers all complete. Fuselage sides done and currently assembling the front end, with a few modifications to hang the wonderful looking Laser 180 that arrived today.. Thanks Jon. I will Get around to uploading some pictures once I have learnt how to do it on the this forum; though they look just like all the others already posted.

[bert baker]

You may find gas struts will need to be restricted

I would favor the flair sprung Tiger Moth type

[cymaz]

The Flair UC is on my Stampe. It took several tries to get the correct spring rate and damping. I buy my springs from Flexo Springs, Bristol

[Martin McIntosh]

Why bother with a sprung u/c on a Stampe?

[cymaz]

Posted by Martin McIntosh on 08/11/2019 18:20:39:

Why bother with a sprung u/c on a Stampe?

You must have seen my landings Martin !

[Nick Somerville]

TBH if Flair was still selling their 1/4 scale Tiggie UC I would opt for it in a flash. Since they don't and I decided that for this build I would try one..... And I am committed now as I have cut an access through the front uc former for my tank to poke through, as the Laser 180 meant shortening the upper bay to less than suitable for a 14oz tank.

Also this thread has some enviable looking scale like UC constructions from you guys, so that in trying to emulate them I should be able to learn some new skills. Martin has a point though as I don't recall ever damaging the UC in my first stamp, since it really wasn't a problem to grease the landings. The very reason for building one again is the happy memories of an afternoon spent flying touch and go's down the strip!

[Pegasus]

I use the tiggy UC on my Stampe. got it from Mick Reeves. Its virtually identicle to the Stamps. Mine has done many many to/landings. never had a problem with it. Very robust bit of kit.

Tony

Cambridge

[Jon H]

Its pretty easy to make an undercarriage. I made mine from a pair of cheap hobbyking oleos and a few lengths of strip steel. A bit of brass tube, a few bolts and some silver solder later and it was all done.

While a spung u/c might not be 100% required i have found it really makes a difference to the model as takeoff and landing look so much better with the wheels bouncing around and the model rock solid

[bert baker]

Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 08/11/2019 18:50:59:

Its pretty easy to make an undercarriage. I made mine from a pair of cheap hobbyking oleos and a few lengths of strip steel. A bit of brass tube, a few bolts and some silver solder later and it was all done.

While a spung u/c might not be 100% required i have found it really makes a difference to the model as takeoff and landing look so much better with the wheels bouncing around and the model rock solid

And a pair of Valerie singletons

[bert baker]

I suppose you could fit the supplied undercart and trim off to form a stub for the oleos

[cymaz]

Picture is of the Mick Reeves Kit. Don’t forget the Stampe UC as a bracing stay from the crucifix to the tail, just below the rear cockpit.

[Nick Somerville]

Thanks for the replies all. So much helpful advice, looking forward to putting it into practise now.

[Michael Denest]

Posted by bert baker on 08/11/2019 19:22:34:

Posted by Jon - Laser Engines on 08/11/2019 18:50:59:

And a pair of Valerie singletons

Please explain for those of us on the west side of the ditch.

[bert baker]

Knickers ,, did you not have blue peter

[Michael Denest]

Ok, no blue peter over here (wikipedia search). We had Soupy Sales and Mr. Rogers.

Edited By Michael Denest on 08/11/2019 21:36:25

[Nick Somerville]

so the fus and tail feathers are pretty near complete. As I only ordered the minimum amount of solartex to cover the model I think I will glass cloth the front end and only tex the rear open structure. There are so may protrusions what with struts, UC, oil tank and cowling details to work around it should be much easier. Hopefully I can find a white spray paint to match the white tex. I ordered a pair if Hobby K oleos. But the nearest size they had in stock was 169mm and not 150mm I wanted. Plan is to cut the end off, drill and tap for a 4mm connecting coupling of some sort.

Edited By Nick Somerville on 15/11/2019 10:20:11

[Edgeflyer]

Solartex is nice stuff to use. I bought up some 10m rolls of old stuck (about £3 per m) from another "half surviving" model shop. Awful colours but I've found if you rub it with mets or acetone and take some of the dye out, you can then spray paint it.

However, I don't think you can beat a good nylon or silk and dope finish for looks and longevity. It does not wrinkle on sheet surfaces the way my Solartex efforts do.

[Edgeflyer]

My nylon dope covered test wing (old warped buccaneer wing), using new techniques for decor stripes.

[Edgeflyer]

My second hand Precedent Stampe airframe arrives next week. So I've got plenty of fabric in stock.

Interestingly, Solartex is just dyed polyester fabric with a thin layer of heat sensitive (PVA based) glue.

I've found suitable polyester dress lining material on ebay for about £1.50 per metre in a nice variety of colours. Experimenting to see if it heat shrinks and takes dope nicely.

[cymaz]

Posted by Phil B on 15/11/2019 10:44:02:

My second hand Precedent Stampe airframe arrives next week. So I've got plenty of fabric in stock.

Interestingly, Solartex is just dyed polyester fabric with a thin layer of heat sensitive (PVA based) glue.

I've found suitable polyester dress lining material on ebay for about £1.50 per metre in a nice variety of colours. Experimenting to see if it heat shrinks and takes dope nicely.

I will be interested in your findings. I’ve always had a sort of soft spot for solartex.

[Martyn K]

+1. I would love to know how you get on as well

Can you let us know where the material came from please?

I love this thread. Always done thing interesting pops out. Need to think about building my sv4

Thanks

Martyn

[Edgeflyer]

Also as an aside, I do lots of glass fibre covering, but I have found nylon and dope to be probably better for covering sheet surfaces, especially on this type of model.

The polyester comes from eBay if you search

Plain Habotai Silk Lining Fabric 100% Polyester Material Dress Lining

You will find it. £1.80 per metre 158cm wide, approx 50g per sq m.

I will update tomorrow after some trials.

[Nick Somerville]

Also as an aside, I do lots of glass fibre covering, but I have found nylon and dope to be probably better for covering sheet surfaces, especially on this type of model.

what advatages are there in nylon and dope compared to glass clothing?

[Edgeflyer]

Obviously it's personal preference and I regularly use film, tex and gf covering. I find gf tricky round compound curves and obstacles. You can end up with lumpy resin and creases to be sanded out. Doping nylon edges round corners seems easier to me. Then finally the satin tex finish is nice and I think suits 30s and 40s biplanes well. To each his own.