Precedent Stampe 1/4 Scale

[Adrian Hazeldine]

Quick question - have the majority of models built retained the castoring tailwheel as per the plan?

[Steve Dunne]

Hi Adrian,

I retained the castering tailwheel on both of my Stampes, and have very few issues in ground handling (no problems at all in the air... ).
The only time that the rudder is not enough is when trying to turn back out of wind at the end of the landing roll out, but then I find the same problem with my 1/4 Jungmeister and 1/4 Christen eagle both of which have steerable tailwheels.

They can all manage it if I retain enough draught over the fin&rudder, but sometimes ground conditions make that difficult...

Go with it!

Steve.

[Nick Somerville]

Mine is as per plan and also no issues and behaves as Steve said. I recall that on my first Stampe I put a pin into the underside of the rudder and connected it to the tailwheel with a rubber band for increased steering authority.

[John Bisset]

What Steve describes is how I recall the full size Stampe behaved too.

Serious crosswinds were 'challenging' = best avoided and even in light crosswinds sometimes accepting a gentle, slow, groundloop was the safe option when taxying. On hard surfaces sometimes that wee burst of power to get rudder authority could be a headache causing speed build up, and real Stampes mostly have light tail weight so using the brakes is best avoided. Lots of fun - thinking ahead mattered.

John B

[cymaz]

Steerable tailwheel on mine. Taxiing is easy

[Adrian Hazeldine]

thanks for the info everyone.

[bert baker]

We finally maidened Williams Stampe all is good and we weighed it with a full tank

7.09kg ,, no extra weight was needed for the c-g

Zenoah G38 with standard silencer with slight mod to exit

[bert baker]

The tail wheel looked a bit flimsy but held up and performed well. It is self tailoring,

so ok as long as you turn with respect

[bert baker]

[Graham Statham]

Hi. Finally taken the plunge and bought the SLEC kit and an NGH38 to go in it. I remember when the original Preciedent kit came out Denis Bryant told me he thought they had copied and scaled up his drawings which he released in 1971, I also remember him telling me they had got the undercarriage position wrong. I have competed his original drawings with the new kit drawings and indeed the kit wheel position it to far forward and the rear suspension strut mounting about 2" to far forward. I am tempted to revise the lower wing center section to allow for the rear strut to move back and to revise the construction to more closely Denis Bryant's design, which would also have the bonus of be stronger. Has anybody else done this?

Also noted that on the Denis Bryant drawing the fabric covering goes al along the fus side to the cowelling, it is not solid wood, Has anybody else done that.

Was thinking of using Mick Reeves flat steel bracing wires to aid reallisem. that would allow the interplane struts to simply plug into the wing, being retained by the tension on the bracing. That would tidy up the strut fixings.

Finally I thought I again may copy the Denis Bryant plan and incorporate scale (ish) Friese ailerons. Not sure of this though, although it would look good it would be a fair bit of extra work.

[Adrian Hazeldine]

Quick question regarding paints: What's everyone used for the odd bits of painting - cockpit interiors / struttery / u/c fairings etc?

I've not really used paints on a model before - are humbrol enamels sufficiently fuel proof or do I need something different?

Thanks!

[cymaz]

You would be best for a fuel proof paint for the undercarriage. I’ve used Humbrol for the cockpit...no worries

[Martin McIntosh]

The u/c fairings take the brunt of the exhaust and will need to be well fuel proofed. Humbrol by itself will strip off in no time. I used finishing epoxy on my Stampe but even that will bubble after a while. Try two coats of the rather expensive for the jar size Mick Reeves Models epoxy which can be brushed on.

There are more modern paints available now but I have not tried any. Mine is painted all over with Smooth Hammerite.

[Nick Somerville]

I used Guild Chroma gloss black enamel (brushed) for all of the inter-plane struts and wheel pant/fairings and thus far the glow fuel hasn’t bothered it. As those parts are all shaped with litho the paint has chipped/been scratched back a bit here and there, but I rather like the weathered look.

[Adrian Hazeldine]

Thanks Cymaz/ Martin / Nick. I'll stick with Humbrol for inside the cockpit and will give the Chroma ones a go for the struts and u/c.

[Adrian Hazeldine]

Hi, I'm just making new interplane struts and wondered if the two cross bracing wires should be tacked together where they cross at the centre to make the whole assembly more rigid. The old ones with the model had a tie wrap doing this job.

[David P Williams]

Full size have a fibre disk between the wires that is stitched to them, not to add strength but to stop fretting.

[Adrian Hazeldine]

On 20/02/2021 at 11:08, David P Williams said:

Full size have a fibre disk between the wires that is stitched to them, not to add strength but to stop fretting.

thanks David - I think I may wrap some fine copper wire round and put a blob of solder to make it more rigid.

 

[bert baker]

Yep, bound with copper wire and soldered.that’s what I did 

[Danny Fenton]

On 11/10/2020 at 22:43, Graham Statham said:

Hi. Finally taken the plunge and bought the SLEC kit and an NGH38 to go in it. I remember when the original Preciedent kit came out Denis Bryant told me he thought they had copied and scaled up his drawings which he released in 1971, I also remember him telling me they had got the undercarriage position wrong. I have competed his original drawings with the new kit drawings and indeed the kit wheel position it to far forward and the rear suspension strut mounting about 2" to far forward. I am tempted to revise the lower wing center section to allow for the rear strut to move back and to revise the construction to more closely Denis Bryant's design, which would also have the bonus of be stronger. Has anybody else done this?

Also noted that on the Denis Bryant drawing the fabric covering goes al along the fus side to the cowelling, it is not solid wood, Has anybody else done that.

Was thinking of using Mick Reeves flat steel bracing wires to aid reallisem. that would allow the interplane struts to simply plug into the wing, being retained by the tension on the bracing. That would tidy up the strut fixings.

Finally I thought I again may copy the Denis Bryant plan and incorporate scale (ish) Friese ailerons. Not sure of this though, although it would look good it would be a fair bit of extra work.

The Bryant model will be closer to scale for sure. If it were me I would do the mods you have highlighted. I have just altered the ailerons on a DB sport and Scale Auster, and added flaps. Lots of work but is worth it. Look forward to seeing your progress ?

Cheers

Danny

[Martin McIntosh]

Anyone thinking of doing the Stampede at W&W this year since the event seems to be definitely on, or is that just a silly question?

[bert baker]

Not a silly question at all, Alan P,my son William and myself are booked in for the Stampede, I have noted the change to the site layout, it can be found on their email to you , I think it was via the trade link 

[Jon H]

Not sure if i can make it this year even if the show is on. I will see how things pan out

[Nick Somerville]

Interesting to read on BMFA Classified a seller listing an original Stampe model. He states that as it is an original version it is much better than the current SLEC version. Interested  to know others opinions but having built the original and the SLEC versions myself I wholeheartedly disagree. What’s not to like regards laser cut parts over ‘die crush’, and the balsa selection for  was faultless on the SLEC model.

[Peter Jenkins]

I was the lucky recipient of a Precedent Stampe from a Club mate who has had to leave the hobby with medical problems.  Unfortunately, the OS 120 pumper would not run reliably - possibly a gummed up pump as it hasn't been run for at least 10 year or more.  However, as I was lucky enough to buy an unused OS 155 pump I decided to put that into the Stampe as I wanted to run in the engine for possible use in a Mustang.  

 

This evening, I weighed the Stampe and it came in at 6.7 Kg dry.  Note that the 155 is a bored and stroked 120 so it has the same mounting holes but a different silencer.  The 155 is also about 50 g lighter than the 120.  I checked the CG and it is on the rear wing bolts of the top wing.  This seems to be the safe place for the CG.  Hoping to fly it tomorrow.