Chris Barlow Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 New WotsWot Foam-E from Steve Webbs longest day! Been waiting a while to have a go with it and today seems like the only day over the holidays! Highly recommended! Flies very smooth with lots of control authority. Spins lovely, loops gracefully and rolls rapidly! Sounds good too on flypasts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Got my DB Tiger Moth maidened today in not ideal conditions but light wind and not actually raining. As someone commented it was the best day for 7 weeks! As you can see it was pretty wet and the visibility was poor. All up weight is 3.14kg with a 4S 4000 mAh LiPo installed. 50% battery left after a total of 6 minutes in the air (I started landing preparations after 5 minutes). EMax GT3526/04 motor with a 13x4 prop. Cruise current about 20 amps and max recorded during the flight about 50. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Thanks Percy. There's a bit of your Solartex on there. Can you see where it is? Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff S Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 Your bit's in the last view, just about where the G-ACDC lettering is. There's one coat of B&Q Valspar acrylic brush painted on the fuselage. I got it mixed to match the cowl which was already sprayed when I got it. It looks better in the photos than in actuality. It looks OK but it won't survive a critical close inspection. I have no idea what the fuselage is covered with. The colour matches exactly the Solartex piece you so generously sent me but yours is almost transparent compared to the original. That's one reason I opted to give it a coat of Valspar. It's not finished yet. I have a bit more rib stitching to do on the top wing before I fit the numbers and the cowl has a hole in it which needs patching. I'll spray the cowl and the battery lid hinge then. I've also got to fit the struts to the tail plane which the full size has but not the model kit. Geoff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Former Member Posted December 27, 2015 Share Posted December 27, 2015 [This posting has been removed] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Marsh Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 Flew 4 new models this weekend. Flew the Airacobra. Flew perfectly, as did the Flair Cub and the T34 Mentor. Thanks to Langar and Neil for the flying pic... Edited By Paul Marsh on 28/12/2015 17:55:45 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fredrum Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Just finished her today. Jemima from the RCM&E free plan. Build blog here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Birgir Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Congratulations - it looks splendid B Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fredrum Posted December 29, 2015 Share Posted December 29, 2015 Thanks Birgir. It's my first proper build and I've thoroughly enjoyed it. I'm now entering modelling-induced hibernation for a little while while I contemplate my next one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgar Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 My recently completed DB Tiger Moth E. I started this in 2012, this build was interrupted by a house move where I dropped it and damaged it. I I had little enthusiasm for repairing something I had never flown, however finished now and ready for maiden, if there is ever some decent weather. Its electric with 300 watts on 3S. I know its not very detailed, and its shiny (Oracover) and the yellow isn' t the correct shade etc. but good enough for me. There is one point I would like some help with, I've lost the instructions and I don't know what the control throws should be, any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Bubble Dancer 3M span F3J Thermal Soarer Naked And Dressed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Your Bubble Dancer seems exquisite. I have seen one bubble Dancer and a number of Avias, not being critical, many have used large amounts of CF in the wings as capping strips and "D" boxes. Perhaps the other slight difference your pod does seem a little larger. I had thought looking at commercial models, that for a model designed for very light conditions, the extreme minimisation is not of any great aerodynamic value, and given the problems always are about being tail heavy, there is no weight saving benefit. Unfortunately all the competition fliers seem to have abandoned our club, as i did enjoy watching them, and the obvious ability to fly out the slot, in good conditions. In fact it was Avia fliers who awakened me to telemetry and that current draw did not drop very much on launch, as well as all the other data being collected, analysed. Very educational to me. Again, brilliant model, I am sure you will be well rewarded for all your efforts with hours, or is that days of gliding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Thanks Erfolg The build was fun and the Carbon spar was complex.. I haven't flown it yet. The pod - as you can see is home made from lite ply rather than a G/F moulded thingie. It dimensions are as per plan except squarish rather than roundish if that makes sense Its a bit porky by the way - about 8oz over design weight - most weight gained in the D boxes due to lack of availability of suitable wood. Not too worried, its not designed to be a floater anyway. I need to build an F3B style winch next Plans are available from here if anyone wants to take a close look Bubble Dancer For once I did a build blog on the BARCS web site - if I am allowed to say that here.. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Hi Martyn I've looked at the building thread on the BARCS, and I really love the way in which you combined wood and C/F to make a solid but light structure. Also, I'm impress with the process for building the stab support and the control horn in C/F. I've seen that you've used silver mylar for the tail surface. I've never used this material, do you mind describing briefly how to apply it, glue required, etc...? Also, is this the type of mylar that you used? Thanks a lot for sharing your experience Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Thank you for the kind words The Mylar I use is 5 Micron Aluminised film from www.freeflightsupplies.co.uk and is a pain to use. Its nothing like normal aeromodelling film. It arrives creased and gets worse before it gets better. It show every blemish - including grain - on the surface. It was 'discovered' by the famous free flighter John O'Donnell (late 1960's) and was originally used as sweet wrapping material. To apply is very simple, I use thinned Evo Stick Impact Adhesive (Solvent based), simply brushed on and then before it dries, lay the surface onto the film (over a few sheets of newspaper for padding) - Not the film on the surface. Then working quickly stretch out all the creases before the glue dries. Let the glue dry and then shrink with your favourite hot air gun or run an iron over it - very gently. Unlike most films, it will continue shrinking with more and more heat. Need to be careful though as the aluminium detaches quite easily. as you can see here. You cant overlap the stuff very easily. I tend to trim back using a scalpel. I wish I had used the next thickness up (10 Micron) - however the film and glue only added 1.2g to the tailplane and 0.9g to the fin Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Erfolg Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Ah! Must pay attention. I had recognised that yours is a winch version, all the ones I have seen have been electric powered, generally driving massive props. Even before the 200m cut off, these models at what appeared to be a lethargic climb out, would be a dot in the sky, a long way up wind, or wherever they wanted to be in 30s. We only seem to see F3bs at our club at present, using power winches, where in my case the line tension is so hgh, that staying upright, where you are is a problem. However a number of these are now flying as electric power as I understand F3b(e). Back to the BD/Avia, I think that all the ones I have been commercially built, or built by those who were CF masters, so all had GF pods. What does interest me is that the Lipo used are incredibly low capacity, using a very small amount of energy to get to 200m I also look forward to reading more about the build and the flying experiences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted January 5, 2016 Share Posted January 5, 2016 Posted by edgar on 05/01/2016 11:13:58: My recently completed DB Tiger Moth E. I started this in 2012, this build was interrupted by a house move where I dropped it and damaged it. I I had little enthusiasm for repairing something I had never flown, however finished now and ready for maiden, if there is ever some decent weather. Its electric with 300 watts on 3S. I know its not very detailed, and its shiny (Oracover) and the yellow isn' t the correct shade etc. but good enough for me. There is one point I would like some help with, I've lost the instructions and I don't know what the control throws should be, any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks If you don't get an answer Edgar, start a thread of your own with the question, bound to be some one who knows John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
edgar Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 John, thanks, good idea, or I might try an e-mail directly to DBSS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AVC Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Martyn, thanks a lot for your detailed explanation, this covering sounds like a "high skill" stuff, I may buy something to play around and see how it works, although it sounds quite difficult to use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bernard Koussoulos Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 I was going to put my vintage fire brand on ,but after seeing most of the models already think I will leave it .to build to such a high standard I think some are R,TF out of a box ,not being horrible picky just me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martyn K Posted January 6, 2016 Share Posted January 6, 2016 Posted by AVC on 06/01/2016 16:47:37: Martyn, thanks a lot for your detailed explanation, this covering sounds like a "high skill" stuff, I may buy something to play around and see how it works, although it sounds quite difficult to use. Its not that difficult. Like any new material you need to learn how to use it. If you want a very light reflective film it has a lot going for it. Because its so thin, it doesn't add a lot of torsional stiffness so the underlying structure needs to be reasonably stiff. Its great when you need to keep the weight down. I first used it about 30 years ago on free flight competition models. Get the prep done first and it will be OK. Its not expensive. Mike Woodhouse sells a little How-To guide for Mylar that is probably worth investing in. Martyn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Dean Posted January 7, 2016 Share Posted January 7, 2016 Dornier Skyservant drawn up from a 3 view found on the internet. 72" span. 2 x Emax 2826/06, 2 x 4S 3200, 2 x 60Amp ESC. Tailplane looks too small and nacelles look too big but too late now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon Laughton Posted January 8, 2016 Share Posted January 8, 2016 Escale Seafire: OS 120F/S Surpass III + Elite retracts. Maiden will be in the Spring as the club field is too boggy just now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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