FrSky Taranis - user chat

[PatMc]

Mine still has both timers on the opening screen.

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

What version are you using PatMc?

I can only see timers like this

[PatMc]

I'm on version 2.07.

That's pretty much the same opening page I get except I have 2 timers active & still use the FrSky logo.

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

OK, I have timer 2 switched OFF, that's why only one shows.

[Craig Kane]

I've just taken delivery of my Taranis and I'm very impressed with its quality.

I wanted to get away from my DX6i after too many "unexplained" incidents with models losing settings, RF failures and just a lack of functionality. I'd considered going for the new Spektrum DX6 but the Taranis looked like it would do more than I would ever need and I'd be hard pushed to run out of channels so in the long run, a better investment.

I've also bought an Orange DSM2/DSMX module so that I can still fly all my existing models whilst i gradually replace the rx's with FrSky. Has anyone found any problems using the modules?

I'm having a bit of difficulty getting the settings to copy from Companion to the Tx. I spent some time setting up each model and went to write to the tx it came up with a BAD EEPROM message and reverted to factory settings. I looked this up and it would appear that it's an issue for Win7 users (?) I've updated the driver as suggested but now it won't seem to "see" the tx when connected. If anyone could shed some light?

[Dave Bran]

Craig, you are really in the wrong place as a 23 page single "chat" thread is not the way to travel when there is a complete dedicated forum available, so suggest you go to the openrc forum and read a lot first

The software operates perfectly on both WIn 7 and XP, I know as I use computers with both. Having said that, both were less than instant in getting them going. Its easier now than it was as the latest versions have helped the setup process.

Sequence is basically/:-

1. Ensure you are on the latest version of OpenTX Companion.

2. Make sure its set for Taranis

3. Make sure you load the comparable firmware to the Tx (my guess is that this is wrong).

THEN worry about file set transfers.

[Dave Bran]

Oh, and on modules, again there's a lot of that on the opentx forum, but basically the main issues seem to be some modules where the pins do not align to the Tx sockets and need tweaking or the Tx board moving.........

I had hellish trouble with a RipOffMax FASST module where there was NO instructions AT ALL available from them, and no knowledge of what was required, eventually I found some in Hobbico US's "deleted product" archive.

Oh, and they were wondering why JR Tx owners needed so many FASST modules all of a sudden...................You could not make it up, could you!!!

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

This is absolutely the right place to ask for help Craig, we're a friendly bunch here, always willing to help out.

One of the harder things with Taranis seems to be getting it to talk to the PC. It's nearly always a USB driver issue.

To this end, a little help utility is provided. Have a look here and download Zadig. That should help get you connected.

For firmware updating, you should connect the Tx to PC with the Tx turned off and leave it turned off.

For copying models to and from PC, there are two ways, and how you go about connecting depends on the firmware version you're on. I'd suggest updating the firmware to 2.0.8, then come back here to ask if you need to.

[AJ]

Well my Taranis paid for itself today. I put a model down about 1km away, beyond a river and a line of trees well out of sight in rougth undergrowth. I was able to use the rssi telemetry signal to df onto the model. Using this I was able to get to within a few meters of it from where I could see the plane and recover it. No real damage but no where near where I thought it would be. Thank goodness I was using my Taranis.

A.

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

How obvious AJ, now you mention it.

Yet another nice "extra" that Taranis has.

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

wow! I never thought of using RSSI at a direction finding system! Excellent.

BEB

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Have you replaced the nimh in tx fella's, if so what have you gone with ?

John

[Biggles' Elder Brother - Moderator]

Hi John,

mine originally came with an 800mAh NiMH. I just replaced that with a 2000mAh NiMH (but I think the current ones come like that anyway now). I've not looked using Lipo or the like. TBH the 2000mAh lasts for ages!

BEB

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

I've been using the 800mAh NiMh ever since I had the Tx in January and have found that that last a very long time. I've just aquired a 2000mAh NiMh because a clubmate double purchased.

I'll stay with NiMh's because the internal charger is for NiMh's.

I have carried a 800mAh 2S lipo in the past, just in case. The balance lead plugs in to Taranis and works fine, with a tweak of the battery alarm.

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Cheers lads, I will stay with the nimh then. Mine has the 800mah in bought from BRC

John

[John Privett]

Mine had the 800mAh battery when I bought it. I got the Overlander 2000 mAh shortly after while buying a couple of sensors from T9. I'm sure the 800 would last well enough for me, but a review somewhere had pointed out how stiff the wires were on the original and although there would never be much movement of the wires I just felt they were possibly prone to fracturing.

[Kevin Fairgrieve]

Mine came with the 2000mAh battery as it is the revision model with the smooth sliders etc.

 

I will at some point change to a LiPo. I have one of these in my DX7 and have only charged it two or three times in about a year. It fits nicely in the Taranis, but will need small JR  connector changing for a compatible one.

Of course removing the battery from the TX for charging.

 

Kev

 

Edited By Kevin Fairgrieve on 03/08/2014 07:18:52

[Dave Bran]

Posted by Kevin Fairgrieve on 03/08/2014 07:17:59:

Mine came with the 2000mAh battery as it is the revision model with the smooth sliders etc.

That is not linked, mine was the better sliders, but small battery as supplied.

I didn't have a problem with the small NIMH, but with increasing use planned decided to fit the 2000mAh NIMH and of course swap to the charge cct board for it. Works perfectly.

NO WAY will I fit a LiPo into a Tx, its overkill and adds far too much risk on connections, etc, etc.

[Craig Kane]

Posted by Chris Bott - Moderator on 02/08/2014 17:31:37:

This is absolutely the right place to ask for help Craig, we're a friendly bunch here, always willing to help out.

One of the harder things with Taranis seems to be getting it to talk to the PC. It's nearly always a USB driver issue.

To this end, a little help utility is provided. Have a look here and download Zadig. That should help get you connected.

For firmware updating, you should connect the Tx to PC with the Tx turned off and leave it turned off.

For copying models to and from PC, there are two ways, and how you go about connecting depends on the firmware version you're on. I'd suggest updating the firmware to 2.0.8, then come back here to ask if you need to.

Thanks Chris.

I had a look through the other threads as suggested but thought I would ask a few genera queries on here.

I'd already downloaded the Zadig file but I guess I haven't set something up correctly. I'll go back and check again.

[David...]

Posted by AJ on 02/08/2014 17:31:41:

Well my Taranis paid for itself today. I put a model down about 1km away, beyond a river and a line of trees well out of sight in rougth undergrowth. I was able to use the rssi telemetry signal to df onto the model. Using this I was able to get to within a few meters of it from where I could see the plane and recover it. No real damage but no where near where I thought it would be. Thank goodness I was using my Taranis.

A.

 

This is a brilliant piece of lateral thinking and yet another huge bonus for Taranis and its RSSI. This is what I would do:

Hold the Tx in front of you with the antenna vertical and rotate yourself and determine where the minimum and maximum signal strengths are. At maximum signal strength the craft would be at right-angles to you, either left or right and the direction confirmed by the minimum. At this stage you cannot determine (but you can guess) the direction, especially if you saw it go down!

Note the direction your facing. Now move yourself say 100M away from where you are and go either left or right, then repeat the direction finding exercise, you then have to determine where your new direction of maximum signal is relative to the first one and their point of intersection is where the model is.

Repeat as you get closer for a better position fix. It's what's called the crooked hat approach to direction finding, it works...

Try it at your local park to see how it operates.

Of course if you have a GPS module fitted and it's got a signal from a clear view of the satellites (not upside down!) then you would go straight to that position.

AJ - thanks for posting your discovery. I'd be interested to know if you found your model through trial and error or using the inherent directivity of the RSSI reception.

 

Edited By David... on 03/08/2014 10:21:59

[John Privett]

Posted by Dave Bran on 03/08/2014 08:03:38:

...decided to fit the 2000mAh NIMH and of course swap to the charge cct board for it.

Could you expand on that bit please, Dave. Did I miss something?

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

John, I believe that early Taranii wouldn't fully charge a 2000mAh NiMh, or maybe it just took a long time.

So the charge circuit was altered to suit both sizes of battery.

I seem to remember, but can't find the info again, that if your charge LED flashes at the start of a charge, then you have the updated charge circuit.

For those with an early one, a replacement is available.

As for using a LiPo in a Tx DB, not only is the Taranis designed to take one, with the battery connector suiting a 2S LiPo balance plug, other modern transmitters come supplied with a LiPo too, I don't see the problem.

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[Chris Bott - Moderator]

From the Aloft Hobbies description of the 2000mAh battery:-

Please note that early Taranis owners may need to run their charge cycle twice when first charging this battery, or when charging a deeply discharged pack. To do this, simply wait until the charge light turns off on your transmitter, then turn the Taranis on, and then off. The charge light should light back up and start charging again. Radios made from October 2013 on will not have this issue.

[PatMc]

John, the 2000mAH charging module is listed here. If you don't have the "B" version Tx it's a good idea to upgrade to the new sliders at the same time. The new charging circuit will charge with a flashing green LED, and it goes steady when battery is fully charged.

Chris, the disadvantage with Lipo & LiFe is that they can't be charged using the built in circuit. A fully charged 2000mAH NiMh lasted about 6 or 7 hours before bring up the LV alarm (set at 7.2v) when I tested mine recently.