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Best switch, or lead?


Oops
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In my SASFusion glider I have a flying lead that comes from the rx and I connect that to the lead that comes from the ninth pack. I'm building a Wild thing and am minded to use a switch. what is theMercedes of slide switches? Aalso, my rx is a spectrum, what is the name of the lead I described with connectors, on each end one for rx one for the battery connector?

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Allan: there's 2 possibilities that I'm after either a switch harnesss, or a flying leading, with a connector on each end, one that goes in the rx and one that connects to the lead coming from the nimh battery, what is that lead called?

Andy: it's complicated, I don't want to add more electronics, and too expensive too!

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I don't want to hijack the thread but have been looking for the "best" solution to switches myself.

Andy, have you universally adopted the Hall effect switches across all your models now? I was going to try them but was wrestling with the fact that they add complexity which is less good for reliability. I think though, that some electronic complexity would still be more reliable that the poor quality mechanical switches on offer.

Obviously they could be used in parallel with a mechanical switch but it gets a bit OTT on the wiring.

Would be good to hear more of your thoughts on them.

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Posted by Oops on 20/10/2014 06:54:12:

Allan: there's 2 possibilities that I'm after either a switch harnesss, or a flying leading, with a connector on each end, one that goes in the rx and one that connects to the lead coming from the nimh battery, what is that lead called? ...

OK, the "lying lead" would be a "servo extension lead". Most model shops have them in varying lengths, or you can make them up yourself with crimp connectors.

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Posted by Allan Bennett on 19/10/2014 20:21:15:

I believe "switch harness" is the usual term. I don't know which is the "mercedes" of slide switches, but I never had any trouble with my Futaba ones over 20 years.

Edited By Allan Bennett on 19/10/2014 20:21:49

Think I'd be looking for the 'Rolls-Royce' version myself.................Mercedes???????????wink

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Hi Masher, I have 2 hall effect switches now and will add them to all future models. I disagree that they add a complication, the can be tucked inside the fuselage - no need to make a hole, and they fail safe.

If you consider a good switch will set you back £12 or more, at £20 they are good value. No moving parts means they should never wear out.

Andy

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Thanks Andy - I hadn't picked up on the fail safe - that's even better. I agree that £20 is a good price to pay in the overall scheme of minimising possible brown out!

I will convert to these now.

Thanks

 

Doh! They are only available for pre-order sad

Edited By Masher on 20/10/2014 12:41:38

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Posted by Allan Bennett on 20/10/2014 11:42:33:
Posted by Oops on 20/10/2014 06:54:12:

Allan: there's 2 possibilities that I'm after either a switch harnesss, or a flying leading, with a connector on each end, one that goes in the rx and one that connects to the lead coming from the nimh battery, what is that lead called? ...

OK, the "lying lead" would be a "servo extension lead". Most model shops have them in varying lengths, or you can make them up yourself with crimp connectors.

Ah, great, thanks! I spent ages googling reaceiver | rx + battery + lead | cable. I would bever have guessed at a servo lead. So a Spektrum servo extension lead.

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I just got one of the new rcexl switches and they feel and look very good,if they keep the make these I will make them my standard switches here **LINK**

or you can always make you own like I do **LINK**

 

or another good switch is the Futaba heavy duty switch but it does not have a charge socket but a fly leed instead

Edited By flight1 on 20/10/2014 20:05:53

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