Ebay Attilla - getting ready to fly it - advice needed

[JAMES S]

On impulse I bought this lovely looking Flair Attica off ebay. I am unsure if it has been flown or not as it doesn't smell of fuel or seem that dirty. Or have crash damage like most things I've flown have.

What happens if it has not been fuel proofed yet and I get fuel on the fuselage or wings? Is there a test to check if its been fuel proofed

Also, any tips on what to do with the OS FS engine? I've only dabbled in 2 stroke's for about 18 months when I first started then switched over totally to electric.

On spinning the propeller I can't feel a lot of compression compared to something like a .50 2 stroke but is this normal on a little 4 stroke?

regards

James

[Paul Marsh]

The .26 is only a small engine. I have a Attilla with a OS15FP in it. Once ran and running the compression will increase, and the only way to do that is - well, run the engine...

[JAMES S]

Thanks Paul ! I am just setting up the radio now for the throttle and may have a go at running it in the garden.

The engine does look like new so maybe that is the reason for low compression.

[Dave Hopkin]

If you have any doubt if the thing has been fuel proofed or not, assume it hasn't and do it, 2 coats won't be the end of the world but none will be!

[JAMES S]

Right Dave - I think I'll leave starting the engine until I've stuck some fuel proofer on it ......unless I can test in some way.....would a dab of fuel on the fuz make a colour change to the material if its not been fuel proofed?

next question.....Is the throttle fully off with the throttle lever back towards the bulkhead and fully on if the throttle lever is forwards towards the propeller?

[cymaz]

If it were me I would take the engine out and run it on my test bed. It would be easier to set the needles.

Failing that take the cowl off to test run it. Just so you can check over and see the carb. BTW the carb is closed or very nearly.

[Dave Hopkin]

As I haven't played with IC for years now, so I am not the best person to ask - But I personally would remove the engine before fuel proofing it to make sure I got into all the crevises and under the motor etc....

If you did that you could rig up a test mount and provided its very secure in a properly fixed down vice then it could be test run outside the plane while the fuel proofer dries

BUT listen to what the IC boys tell you, it may well totally contradict me (and they will be right!)

[leccy]

Hi james - that's a nice Attila you have there-I think that I saw that come up on eBay,

To answer your first question, it;s quite normal for the little OS .26 4 stoke to have very little apparent compression, when compared to the two strokes that you have been more used to. The model will fly beautifully on that motor and you will have loads of fun with it. Mine had an ancient OS .20 FS which ran like a little sewing machine - I used to use an electric starter to get her going at first, but she would start with a flick when warmed up a little.

If the model were mine, and I was unsure about the fuel proofing, I think I'd follow the advice that they guys are giving, to take the motor out an bench run it to get familiar with the controls, whilst taking the opportunity to add a coat of protection to the engine bay. I won't venture any further IC advice, since I'm no longer a practicing four stroker.

Best of luck with the model and enjoy those lovely chandelles and Immelman turns.

[J D 8]

You can find OS sf 26 manual on line,It will help get the set up right for you and get those covering edges that are free as seen in pics fixed down before fuel proofing engine bay and belly of aircraft well.Cheers and good luck.

[leccyflyer]

No idea what happened then - something about replies being pre-moderated - anyway, the post I just made has not appeared, I've logged out and back in again, so let's have another go.

That's a really nice Attilla James - I'm sure that you will have fun with it. My Attilla had an ancient OS .20FS fitted, which also exhibited very low apparent compression compared to a larger two stroke and that;s completely normal. Ran like a little sewing machine though and the perfect power plant for the Attilla - enjoy the gentle chandelles and Immelman turns.

You've had good advice on the fuel proofing front and, if it were mine, I;d be taking the motor out, bench running it a few times, to get familiar with it's operation and taking the opportunity to at least fuelproof the engine bay, fuselage undersides and tail.

[fly boy3]

Hi James a lovely model to fly. If covering is Solartex, it does not need fuel proofing, but doing so, will keep the covering cleaner after a few years. Cheers

[JAMES S]

thanks Cymaz, Dave Hopkin and Leccyflyer - your advice on taking the motor out and test running makes perfect sense ( why it didn't occur to me I don't know.....) and I'll then use some flexicote to fuel proof the aircraft.

And I'll go find a manual for the engine online - thanks John Davies 8.

[JAMES S]

Posted by fly boy3 on 06/12/2014 15:26:14:

Hi James a lovely model to fly. If covering is Solartex, it does not need fuel proofing, but doing so, will keep the covering cleaner after a few years. Cheers

I'll go with fuel proofing fly boy 3 - I'm not sure if its Solartex or not - seems a nice finish to it though, cheers James

[bert baker]

Hi James

Thumbs up to fuel proof.

Fuel proof needs loads of time to go fully hard, the longer you can leave it to cure the better, its not a great time of year in cold shed to fuel proof ( in my opinion ), I would be thinking of cure time of weeks rather than days, it is good stuff and will make a big difference when cleaning down.

Warning,,,,,,,Some paints - fuel proofers can react and cause the painted bits to pickle up.

[cymaz]

Posted by bert baker on 06/12/2014 16:28:35:

Hi James

Thumbs up to fuel proof.

Fuel proof needs loads of time to go fully hard, the longer you can leave it to cure the better, its not a great time of year in cold shed to fuel proof ( in my opinion ), I would be thinking of cure time of weeks rather than days, it is good stuff and will make a big difference when cleaning down.

Leave the plane in the dining room for the fuel proofer to go off...just mind what her ladyship says

[Ian Jones]

The OS 26FS is a lovely little engine and should easily tug your atilla around. I have one in my Sportster which I've been flying for some years now.

I would add to the very good advice above that if you are using any nitro in your fuel (which I suggest you do @10%), make sure that the fuel proofer has had plenty of time to harden off, at least a week.

[Bucksboy]

Regarding which way is full/closed throttle, remove the cowl and look into the carb as you operate the throttle. You can see the hole get bigger as you open the throttle. When you know which way is wide open throttle, mark a big + sign next to the throttle servo arm so you don't forget.

[JAMES S]

Posted by cymaz on 06/12/2014 16:31:26:

Posted by bert baker on 06/12/2014 16:28:35:

Leave the plane in the dining room for the fuel proofer to go off...just mind what her ladyship says

No kidding!!!!! I just read the warnings on the Flexikote and I reckon this is the most toxic thing I've got in the house - and I've got a shelf full of glues, resins and what have you already.

I think the airing cupboard would work nicely to make it cure but will have to work out a time when no-one else is in the house to experience the fumes else I feel a "domestic incident" could take place

[JAMES S]

Posted by Bucksboy on 06/12/2014 18:25:48:

Regarding which way is full/closed throttle, remove the cowl and look into the carb as you operate the throttle. You can see the hole get bigger as you open the throttle. When you know which way is wide open throttle, mark a big + sign next to the throttle servo arm so you don't forget.

I'll do that thanks!

[JAMES S]

Posted by Ian Jones on 06/12/2014 18:12:41:

The OS 26FS is a lovely little engine and should easily tug your atilla around. I have one in my Sportster which I've been flying for some years now.

I would add to the very good advice above that if you are using any nitro in your fuel (which I suggest you do @10%), make sure that the fuel proofer has had plenty of time to harden off, at least a week.

Lovely photo Ian - looks a beaut!

I'll check on percentage nitro - thanks! James

[JAMES S]

Thanks to the moderator who moved this to a more appropriate forum and also corrected my spelling - appreciated - - thank you - James

[JAMES S]

Managed to find a few hours peace and quiet this morning to finish off the second coat of flexicote. I have been using a mix of 25 ml of flexicote to 50 drops of catalyst ( the maximum on the instructions ) and have had no problems with the coating drying even working outside in the cold.

Before applying the flexicote I stuck down the loose bits of covering and gave the airframe a really good going over. I couldn't find any faults on it so look forward to test flying it in the next week or so.

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

Posted by JAMES S on 06/12/2014 10:39:14:

next question.....Is the throttle fully off with the throttle lever back towards the bulkhead and fully on if the throttle lever is forwards towards the propeller?

 

For future reference, look at the position of the throttle stop screw and visualise the rotation for the throttle rotor to contact it. As it is now, the rotor has moved away from the stop so the throttle is open.

It's even easier with a typical modern 2 needle carburettor - you just need to observe the rotor which will come out of the carb. body as the throttle opens.

P.S. Don't be too effusive with your thanks to the helpful mod - I'm guessing that whichever one did it can't spell Attila...

Edited By Martin Harris on 26/12/2014 12:45:33

[JAMES S]

Well I can certainly remember now why I dumped I/C flying in favour of electric.....two half hour attempts at trying to start the engine, a mouth of glow fuel ( like space dust but not as sweet....) and glo fuel covered fingers....and not a peep of internal combustion from the engine!

Fortunately I still like the idea of an I/C powered crude WWI mono-plane so I'll keep going with I/C.

So what I've got is....

glow fuel is coming from the tank to the card ( proven by suck test )

glow plug is glowing ( proven by unscrewing from engine and connecting to glow charger )

engine does spin over at high rate of knots from electric starter running off car battery

throttle tried at various opennings

needle valve tried between shut and 3 turns open

new tin of 4 stroke fuel

And no combustion!!!! Now what.....?

[Trevor Crook]

James, the picture shows a 4-stroke. Has it been run recently? If it's been sitting around, especially if castor fuel has been used, the valves can stick and not close properly. You can tell this by it having no compression. If compression is present, remove the plug and put a bit of fuel down the hole. Flick the prop to eject excess fuel, then replace the plug and see if it fires. If it starts but doesn't run, and the needle is open, you have a fuel blockage.

If you get totally fed up, my Attila flies nicely on 350W of cheap electric power. I ditched glow properly - no starter, batteries or other support gear any more, so I couldn't start an engine if I was given one!