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My Hobbyking Lancaster


Cliff Bastow
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Don't be wary of flying it if you've already bought it! You know what it does and how to avoid it, everything else is a learning curve and experience. The tip stall does happen quickly but can be considered a great training aid in learning to manage and recover quickly without panicking or freezing.  yes

Personally I wouldn't bother with flaps either because by the time you've added servos, pushrods etc you've also increased the wing loading again with a bit more drag too!

Fly it as it is. It's lots of fun! I tell my (young) kids all the time "scary can be exciting"  laugh

 

Edited By Chris Barlow on 08/11/2015 15:52:05

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There is one in our club, I witnessed the maiden flight, undertaken by my "Test Pilot". Under his control there were no issues at all.

It could be a slightly more recent version, in that the bomb bay servo has been removed, I understand that a few other things have been removed.

Perhaps another way forward, to produce a nicer model to fly, is to remove the UC units and cable. In my HK 110 I have noticed that these units and the cables are pretty heavy.

I have not had my HK 110 out for its maiden by my "test Pilot" as I suspect it will not fly well, slowly. I am waiting until the vegetation dies back before that first attempt (of this second model). The UC option is one I am considering, if my fears prove well founded.

In the air, the Lanc does look good in my opinion.

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...another thought, almost the whole of the wing is in propwash... maybe it would fly better as a twin with the outers removed? sacrilege? [tinhat]

.. and yet another thought, is the nose-up effect in turns simply adverse yaw, might a hefty dose of differential help?

 

Edited By Phil Green on 08/11/2015 21:46:13

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They are surprisingly heavy. I will try tomorrow to provide a figure for the Bf 110, which I suspect will be broadly similar. From what I have seen, they seem to be the same unit.

May not do the trick, the web site indicates the saving is only 60 grams, about 2 oz.

Edited By Erfolg on 08/11/2015 22:14:12

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Without bothering to read all of this, in a mad moment I bought one and realised that with the battery in the new forward position the cg was almost on the le so cut the wing centre foam away to move it as far rearward as possible.

Re glued the u/c which was only spot glued. It actually flies just fine after a pylon racer type take off.

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Martin,

I am surprisd you had to do that, I have my battery in the rear compartment but pushed as far forward as it will go ie up to the rear spar and the cg seems about right!

I have also noticed on my model that there is a big gap between the back of the spinners and the front of the engine nacelles which looks horrible. looking at other peoples pictures they look ok so I will have to have another look at mine to try and see why this is.

I have noticed while looking at others pictures that they all seem to have the fuselage stickers the wrong way round so this must be a common fault!

Edited By Cliff Bastow on 10/11/2015 15:48:47

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Hi Martin,

No mine is the latest version with the reduced weight so not sure whats gone on there!

As regards the stickers on the fuselage, the no KA454 should be towards the tail and not in front of the KC-A.

If you look you can see that if the stickers had been put on the opposite sides of the fuselage they would be right.

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Well I have had an email from Hobby king saying my claim has been considered sorted!

So I logged into my Hobby king account and found that I have been given a credit for the stickers and prop adaptor. I also had an outstanding order on my account which when I looked was for a wing set and it had been dispatched on the 11Th! FOC

I know Hobby king comes in for a fair amount of stick but I have to say they have been most helpful over this and I am grateful for the way they have treated me.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Well I finally got a day off with reasonable weather today, if a bit cold, so took the Lanc to the field, fitted a lipo and went for it!

How did it fly? not to bad at all to be honest. Yes its a bit fast but I kept the speed up and the bank angle not to much and it grooved around quite nicely. I have to say it looks great in the air and after two flights today no real problems to report. Fingers crossed for the future. I think provided you don't try to slow it up too much its fine.

I did find the wheels could not cope on the grass but I took off the path when nobody was looking and landed it wheels up.

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Posted by Gary Manuel on 23/11/2015 16:52:17:

In a moment of madness, I've just ordered one of these in the HK sale that they are doing. I got it for £60 including postage. Being a true Yorkshireman, I couldn't resist the low price. How on earth do they do it?

Anyway, I fly from grass, which is not really compatible with small prasticky retracts. What I intend doing is ripping these out and putting some balsa blocks in the retract holes for belly landing on. Hopefully the reduced weight should help with the stall speed. (I might even be able to sell the retracts) wink

Another thought that occurs to me is the possibility of using a bigger receiver with one channel per ESC and mixing some throttle differential controlled from the rudder stick. I am thinking that this might offset the lack of a rudder to some degree, BUT as the power to the inside wing in a turn would be reduced, it might actually cause this wing to stall earlier than it would with more power applied.

Any thoughts on whether this will help or hinder?

Am I wasting my time even thinking about this?

Do REAL planes with multi-engines use throttle differential in turns?

 

Edit

P.S. I would put the throttle differential on a switch and try it with the plane at a decent height.

Edit 2 - oops - I meant to edit, not double post

Edited By Gary Manuel on 23/11/2015 16:57:20

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Gary,

I have also thought I might remove the retracts and hand launch. You could also then remove the tailwheel which is overscale and its steering servo which would save a bit more weight. There is plenty of room to move the battery around so you should still be able to get the cg right without having to add any extra weight.

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Cliff,

That's true - I never thought that the tail wheel and servo would also be redundant.

It becomes a bit of a "no brainer" for use on a grass field. I fly a Durafly DH88 Comet and that has been belly landing nicely since it's 3rd flight. Don't ask what happened to the undercarriage on the second flight blush

Edited By Gary Manuel on 23/11/2015 17:14:06

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mine arrived yeterday, praise where it's due, nice one HK and at £60 a bargain at that

Issue 1 , port retract almost closing then snapping shut, looks like a minor fault on the drive screw

I had asked on FB and RC Groups about the lack of rudders one guy said use 4 gram servos others say diff throttles some say not to bother, thing is I like using rudder on my other twins, My rc groups "the twins " actually flies better and more realistically just using rudders, and i have a specky6 so I think I'd have to use a mixer( which I have) for the throttles question is , is it worth doing

all in all, a nice looking plane, which I am taking my time over

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Gordon, somewhere on here I posted that I removed the tail wheel and servo after cutting out a chunk under the tail, fitted a micro servo in there then linked it to the rudders under the tail with carbon rods, finally converting the wheel to castor and gluing the foam back in place.

C.A.R. is very desirable but do not use very much rudder coupling.

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