Returning after a while

[Scott Notman]

Hi All,

Thought I would introduce myself I am returning to this hobby,pass time possible obsessive addition after a while away (almost 30yrs).

I flew in Scotland when still at school and enjoyed my time flying different models of that time.

What I didn't realise that so much has changed and advanced so I think I,m a bit out of date.

I visited a fairly local model shop just to get a feel of where I would start off. I always enjoyed building my planes usually over winter, however I was told that " We really don't do that now" and was pointed in the direction of a ARTF foamie?? which is electric.

Now I have no issues with people taking this route it's just a bit alien for me.

So I have opted for a more traditional kit and will take my time to build over the next few months As I currently have limited time due to work family etc.

My thoughts are to go for a 4 stroke glow engine perhaps sc or saito.

Its the radio systems which seems a lot more complex than before and will take time to try and figure out.

Thankfully there is now an internet for research and help. I'm now starting to feel old!

Will post the inevitable silly questions soon.

Thanks

Scott

[ken anderson.]

welcome scot from me...don't worry about been out of flying for a while--its much easier getting back in to the hobby now...I returned in the late 80's once my nest was built and kids growing up etc....everything works straight out of the box......compared to days gone by...and things are a lot cheaper in reality ...have fun and ask as many questions as you need to...don't buy too much stuff until you have taken on board some advice...good lads on here(most of them)..... ...

ken anderson..ne..1 ...new starter/welcome dept.

[kc]

If you want to build your own plane ( = real aeromodelling ) then there are plenty of plans available and a few kit manufacturers such as SLEC or DB Sport and Scale

Radios now are always 2.4 Ghz and Spektrum is the most common. Not worth buying old 35 Mhz radios now although they are still legal if you have a set in good working order, but beware the cost of replacing the old nicads will be near to the cost of a complete inexpensive 2.4 set.   Some clubs only allow 2.4 Ghz and also there are electric only clubs too so check with your local club before deciding to buy an i.c. engine.

Edited By kc on 15/08/2016 18:21:10

[Peter Miller]

You local model shop is wrong. Probably don't want the hassle of explaining the ins and outs of building . Much easier to sell an ARTF

Just look at all the plans available and all the build blogs.Part kits etc I could go one for pages.

Good range of Kits including American from Pegasus model in Norwich.

Balsa from SLEC.

 

Edited By Peter Miller on 15/08/2016 18:55:28

[David Davis]

Hi Scott and welcome back from me!

In addition to everything the others have said, if you have a favourite old plan, there are kit cutters like SLEC or Belair Models which will cut a kit for you at a price.

Yes there are good ARTFs as well I own three of them including a WOT4 XL and an Acrowot but nothing beats building your own model!

You don't say what sort of model you're interested in or what your level of competence as a pilot is. Colin Buckle still markets Ben Buckle kits if you're interested in something traditional.

If you're thinking of buying a medium or large size four-stroke, please consider Laser Engines. This British marque makes excellent engines which have powered may winners of scale competitions and their prices are competitive with the Japanese makes, added to which, if you buy a new one, you get your initials stamped onto the crankcase!

[Keith Berriman]

Hello Scott welcome from me may I also suggest also Pegasus Models for build kits or the RCME plans and kit and even Traplet 

Only problem is the P&P rates some charge

Edited By RC Plane Flyer on 15/08/2016 19:16:51

[kc]

Scott, if you give some idea of your location then maybe someone here will suggest a nearby club. If not check out the BMFA club finder ( BMFA is current name for the SMAE )

Nowadays it is essential to be insured and this is arranged through BMFA via your local club. Note that BMFA and club membership runs 1st Jan to 31st Dec.

All the RCME & Radio Modeller plans you may remember from the past will probably be available from MyHobbyStores Lots of new designs are available and maybe the Peter Miller Harlequin design might be suitable for an easy build and easy to fly. Big advantage of such designs is the build blogs here on Modelflying.

[Scott Notman]

Hi All,

Thanks for the welcome and information. I have the Balsa USA Bristol M1 coming from Pegasus. I know its not liked by all but I'm a sucker for the early years of aviation also i thought it would be slower hopefully gentle start?

Reading some of the reviews it seems the kit is on the heavy side I did think of putting in a 4 stroke at the top end of the range.

I have looked at the Laser engines thinking the 70 would perhaps be the choice?

Thanks again

Scott

[cymaz]

Hi Scott

Have a quick read through this. Laser 70 wouldn't be put of place by the looks of it.

[Former Member]

[This posting has been removed]

[ChrisB]

Hi Scott, as a Spectrum user I can say that they are so easy to use, very straightforward servo set-up and general functionality. I'd recommend Spekky radio and as a knock about...get you in the air model, the wot 4 Foamie is a must!

Cheers

CB

[Don Fry]

I would agree with ChrisB, build the M1, lovely machine, but embrace the advantages of a foamy (no time investment, easy to fix after a mishap), while you get your eye in. Welcome back.

[Max Z]

Ton van Munsteren did an electric conversion of the Balsa USA kit, see Here

[John F]

I, personally, would suggest an electric setup. There is nothing more frustrating than an enginge that won't stop stalling.

Yes, many will come here and say that they fly with no issues with IC but we've all seen the chap who can't get his engine going properly.

Pedantic issues over battery charging at the field, spare batteries etc aside, electric removes reliability issues and gives you a trouble free ability to get up into the air.  Quite useful whilst you're getting a feel again.

Edited By John F on 16/08/2016 13:17:33

[Peter Miller]

Posted by John F on 16/08/2016 13:08:46:

Yes, many will come here and say that they fly with no issues with IC but we've all seen the chap who can't get his engine going properly.

Edited By John F on 16/08/2016 13:17:33

I would say that the problem with such chaps is the CHAP himself or his installation. (same thing I suppose)

in our club of 16 members we have 7 members who fly i/c on a very regular basis from .049s up to 80cc petrol including helicopters.

An engine dying s rare and 9 times out of 10 the pilot ran out of fuel

[John F]

Like I said above there will always be folk who say they never have a problem, but there always seems to be someone dipping out on a flight or experiencing an unexpected return to earth after their climb out ends abruptly as the engine coughs and dies, despite having a full fuel tank.

Our club day two weeks ago saw several aircraft grounded as the owners, and other members, could not wring a reliable purr from them.

All I am saying is that electric eliminates this hassle.

[Dai Fledermaus]

Scott,

I've just watched a BBC news item about the increased cost of imports post Brexit. The value of the pound against other currencies is now so unfavourable that Yellow Fin Tuna costs importers 16% more than it did before, because it's purchased from Japan in Yen. It's only a question of time before this is increased cost is passed on to the consumer.

What's that got to do with the price of fish you may well ask! Well, presumably any Japanese import including Saito engines will be similarly effected.

If you decide to buy one, do it sooner rather than later. Having said that, the advice probably applies  to any imported product.

Edited By Dai Fledermaus on 16/08/2016 14:31:29

[Shaunie]

Hi Scott and welcome to the forum.

I think traditional building is having a bit of a comeback (certainly on here it is anyway).

Don't be frightened to have more than one string to your bow, even if conventional airframes are what floats your boat a foamie lets you get easy stick time without risking your valuable hand-built airframe.

Shaunie.

[Scott Notman]

Hi All,

Thanks again I have no electric experience bar a glider many moons ago. I plan to use an IC engine as it was what I knew all be it 2 stroke.

I don't have anything against electric just I feel I have enough to contend without another learning curve being added. I am looking forward to starting the M1 I do realise that its risky using it to start again but then I do remember the odd mishap before and I like building.

Cheers

Scott

[Max Z]

Posted by Scott Notman on 15/08/2016 16:59:39:

Its the radio systems which seems a lot more complex than before and will take time to try and figure out.

Thankfully there is now an internet for research and help.

Do make use of the internet and get the manuals of the various brands. I bought my first programmable set in the early 90's, I don't remember if they were around 30 years ago. Anyway, at the time I made a study of 3 different sets, Multiplex, Graupner/JR and Robbe/Futaba, and found that the Multiplex programming methodology suited my taste best so I bought a Mc3010. There were (and still are) profound differences in those systems where it came to set up a more complex model. I am not saying MPX is the best, other flyers are more than happy with the Futaba or Graupner systems, It is a matter of taste. But you only know if it is your taste after studying them.

The biggest change of course is the introduction of 2.4 GHz systems, although 35 MHz is still acceptable today. If you have an old 35MHz set there is nothing wrong with using it. If you go for a new 2.4 set be aware that most systems are not cross-compatible, you have to buy a Tx and Rx of the same brand (with exceptions). Most 2.4 systems offer telemetry, but not always with their entry level receivers. Setting up the telemetry channels varies from brand to brand, but probably requires the use of a computer.

Max.

[Scott Notman]

Hi All,

Just an update I am now building my Bristol M1 ( Balsa USA)all going well besides dropping scalpel into leg!

I used to fly with Clyde Valley Flyers up here in Scotland and I now stay In North Ayrshire I am waiting to hear back from CVF hopefully they are still flying it would be good to return to my old club.

Reading through the posts I have noticed that the general opinion is that the M1 tail plane and fin are too heavy and small on surface area.They are made from solid 1/4" basla in the kit.

I have see good examples of built up versions has any one here did this? if so is there a easy way of resizing.

Perhaps a ratio relating to wing width? ie leading to trailing edge?

Thanks again

 

Scott

Edited By Scott Notman on 25/08/2016 20:12:28

[onetenor]

I would use the solid pieces as formers to laminate the outline of tailplane and fin which willl give you a small area increase . For bigger use the timber to help make new parts .Just making them lighter will make a huge improvement to stability and performance

John

[Scott Notman]

Thanks John,

Think i'll make them slighter bigger I have additional balsa to make them with spars 3/16 then cap with 1/32.

I have some 1/4 x 1 for leading edge etc. I was thinking that I might regret not doing it later on.

When you say laminate do you mean bending balsa around the solid version to create the outer edge?

Thanks

Scott

[Martin Harris - Moderator]

Laminating usually refers to the technique of forming the shape with several thin strips glued to each other around a former. This allows a light but a very strong part to be constructed instead of a single thick strip being simply bent round the shape which stresses and weakens the wood even with damping, steaming or ammonia treatment.

Edited By Martin Harris on 25/08/2016 23:31:54

[Scott Notman]

Just an update now that I have managed to upload some pics. I feel it's not a bad effort so far given the length of time since my last build.

It is covered in solartex and I'm thinking of hand painting the roundels.Question is would Humbrol paint be ok? looks good on tester.

And would it need proofing afterwards?

Thanks again

Scott