Hello, Brand New to Building

[Chris Bogle]

Hi everyone,

I'm Chris and I'm interested in building models. I've always been into engineering and aircraft, and at the age of 42 I've finally decided to start building them. I'll admit I have high ambitions, I want to learn to build from scratch and have a burning desire to build a RC scale model with an engine, from a plan one day. (Probably when I'm old and grey and the kids have left home!).

BUT for now I've just ordered my first craft knife, tube of epoxy, pot of doping and a Flying Aces Elf rubber band powered plane kit to start learning.

I can see there are hundreds of great threads on here, but any advice fr my first build?

Cheers,

Chris

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Hello Chris.

Advice ? mind how you go with the knife and enjoy yourself.

John

[jrman]

Don't think you will need epoxy on that kit. PVA will be more than adequate and lighter.Cover the plan in thin plastic film to stop the glued parts sticking to the plan. Read and understand the plan before cutting anything. Last but most important - enjoy yourself.

[kc]

You will probably want to build an RC trainer next but learn what you can from building the rubber model. An RC trainer in the 50 to 55 inch size will prove less fiddly but more demanding in installing the control surfaces and radio.

There are not many places where one can see both free flight and RC models flown but one place would be Old Warden  on 22&23 July. near Biggleswade. Worth a trip to the far side of the field to see the smaller models but most people find the RC models more interesting and you should get a chance to see if electric or ic power is what you want to do. You will also find sellers of free flight kits and materials like balsa. there.

Any of the books by David Boddington, Peter Miller or Peter Holland will prove worth buying - not many are still in print so look for used bargains on Amazon.

or this one which is a bargain and is possibly a better ( clearer drawings?) version than latter editions.

You might consider your next model aand stock up on balsa etc - Look at DB Sport & Scale for the Tyro Major as a suitable trainer plan with laser cut ribs available at reasonable prices.

Lots of help here on the forum so just ask when problems occur.

 

Edited By kc on 07/07/2017 19:13:06

Edited By kc on 07/07/2017 19:22:20

Edited By kc on 07/07/2017 19:26:42

[Don Fry]

Don't cut with a finger in front of the blade. If you do you will get the joyous experience of the high speed contact twix steel and flesh.

The interesting bit is between thinking I got away with that, and the blood flowing over the airframe.

Welcome.

[kevin b]

I would suggest ca to glue this one together as it should be lighter than pva, but if you must then aliphatic glue is better. I use Titebond.

The build itself should be straightforward as long as you build on a flat board and pin the parts down secularly whilst the glue dries.

Covering and doping are the tricky parts and having someone experienced to assist here would help. You will need to buy some tissue paste as well. Other adhesives can be used, but I would suggest tissue paste as you are not familiar as yet with all the materials. I don't know if the instructions will include the covering, but if not I would again suggest personal assistance would be preferable. Do you have a local club ? if so I'm sure one of the members would volunteer to help.

If you are "going it alone", then keep coming back to the forum. As they say, the only stupid question is the one you don't ask. You could keep us all informed with a build log. Don't forget to add pictures.

2 things to remember. We all had to start somewhere and we are all still learning !

With regards to sharp blades, I was taught that wherever possible, Both hands behind the cutting edge and you have more control cutting towards you, rather than away from you.

Enjoy the build and welcome to this wonderful hobby.

[kc]

Rather than cyanoacrylate (CA = super glue) which affects some people consider using Super Phatic -view the video here and look at the other modern glues and dope substitutes on this website..

For a building board use a piece of plasterboard which takes pins well. Make sure it is dead flat.

You can use ordinary dressmakers pins but proper T pins or plastic headed pins are better. Dont use glass headed pins which shatter and penetrate your thumb!

When making two identical fuselage sides build the second OVER the first with a layer of polythene between to prevent sticking together.

Proper scalpels such as Swann Morton Retracaway are better than craft knives.  The Retractaway takes 10A blades which are easily obtainable from art shops .  About 1 pound for 5 blades.   Prices vary widely so shop around.

Edited By kc on 08/07/2017 09:51:34

Edited By kc on 08/07/2017 09:53:52

[Dave Hopkin]

Before you put knife to wood, study the plan and visualise how the parts fit together in your head

When cutting wood always try and cut so that the grain will draw you away from the cut line rather than into the part

Dont try and force the blade to cut too deeply, several light scalpel strokes are better

on small models like the rubber one you mentioned glue can significantly increase weight use is as sparingly as possible - tight fitting joints lightly glued are stronger than lots of glue on loose fitting parts

[ken anderson.]

welcome from me Chris...daunting when you first start--loads of info on the forum here from some good lads...don't get stuck ask as many Q's as you want .....and most of all enjoy and have fun.

ken Anderson...ne...... 1 welcome dept.

[Piers Bowlan]

+1 for Swan Morton knife and lots of blades. +1 for thin Cyano and a bottle of Super Phatic. Steel rule 12'' and 24'' for straight cuts. A Permagrit sanding block - one side is rough the other very fine. Expensive but once you have one it will last forever and you will wonder how you lived without it! A razor saw and a razor plane (although not for this model perhaps).

Personally I would use Litespan (or Solite) rather than tissue to cover a model like this. Use a sponge to wipe the completed structure with Balsaloc and when dry apply the Litespan with a domestic iron. (make sure the wife is not looking!) There is no smell and the covering is stronger and more puncture resistant than tissue. You are also less likely to get warps and if you do they are easily removed by applying a little more heat with an iron and twisting the structure (usually wing) in opposition to the warp.

Oh, and welcome to the forum.

 

 

Edited By Piers Bowlan on 08/07/2017 11:40:47

[Chris Bogle]

Thanks all! Some great advice here. Well, I took delivery of my kit today, bought some pins and bits n bobs, and a board to build on. Will post a build log as I go.

Chris

[Don Fry]

Good luck with it. Remember it is a learning curve, and no build is perfect. Don't get too pernicity (spelling?) with the bits what are not seen. Mistakes are principally visible to you.

[Piers Bowlan]

On another thread, 'Engine Doctor' recommended Solarlac Clearcoat or Covergrip from Delux Materials as an alternative adhesive to balsaloc (not tried these myself but the last time I used lightspan was years ago so I am sure he is right).

Have fun.

Edited By Piers Bowlan on 13/07/2017 15:03:00

[Ernie]

Hi Chris Thqts qn interesting choice for q first build.

A wee plane like that seems less intimidating than a 2 meter job. But they are very fiddly to build, and need quite a bit of care to handle the fragile bits. Also, they can be tricky to fly, because they are small and difficult to follow,

But dont let me put you off.....Keep asking, and see how you get on

ernie

[Cuban8]

Welcome to the hobby Chris, we're going to need many more like you in the coming few years. I agree with what Ernie says about small models along the lines of which you've chosen. Appearances are very deceptive, and a small rubber powered model like the 'Elf' which on the face of it looks to a nice simple model to start with, is in fact, nothing of the sort.

Take a look at the old hands at Old Warden spending hours trimming similar models and having them go all over the place or even ending with their model being re-kitted. Even what appears to be a tiny inaccuracy in the build will make the model very difficult to trim correctly for a very experienced FF modeller, so be very aware when you do go for a first flight to take it very easy and build up the model's performance gradually. Wait for a calm day as well.

I always remember the sage advice that came with the models that I attempted to build and fly as a kid in the 60s - "find an open area to test glide your model, preferably over long grass". Well, living in London at the time, there were few fields of long grass available, so all of my efforts IIRC, ended up crashing into the hard ground after a brief untrimmed and out of control 'flight'. Very character forming, and it never put me off.

I'm sure your building will be so much better than mine was as a child and there is so much more information available now, that I was totally ignorant of at the time, but even so, you've set yourself quite a challenge both in learning the building techniques and trimming for flight and I we all wish you well.

[Ernie]

Hi again Chris, and Cuban8

I'm on the finishing stage of a little keil Kraft slicker mite, and there are quite a few problems that are particular to small models.

The structure is very fragile, and needs oh so careful handling;

Weight must be very carefully controlled..No slapping on coats of paint to cover poor workmanship

Radio equipment, motors etc need careful consideration due to lack of space

Covering can be difficult to apply (im using solarlite)

Flying can be difficult, much more so than with a muckle great big 3m span trainer

But, dont let me put you off. Its a great project. But,please do pay heed, and ask when you have doubts

ernie

[cymaz]

Measure twice cut once.

[Peter Miller]

Buy some cork tiles and glue a double layer onto your board with impact adhesive. Perfect for holding pins in place.

Have fun! At least here you can get lots of advice. When and were I started I had none but the instructions.

[Simon Chaddock]

Chris

Small and fiddly? Almost everything about model planes is, and so it should be, as it all about weight. .

You are starting down a very conventional route with an ELF. It has a "classic" form of construction that will stand you in good stead for later models but remember building, like flying, are skills that have to be learned.

The Elf was my first build over 60 years ago although it was a Keil Kraft kit then and I still have the plan.

I was very young at the time so not surprisingly my Elf did not fly particularly well but it did not stop me building!