RICHARD WILLS Posted February 21, 2021 Author Share Posted February 21, 2021 Yes David , They are good motors . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 7 hours ago, RICHARD WILLS said: Yes David , They are good motors . Thanks Richard, ordered two. Would it be fair to say that the P51 needs more grunt than the Spitfire? I have spare 4248 650kv aside for the spit, as I thought that a three bladed dynam could be spun up well enough on that... What are your thoughts there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 David The NTM 4248 650kv with the Dynam 13x7.5x3 is a great match. On a 4 cell 3300mah you'll get 4 to 5 mins exciting flight times. The NTM 5050 580Kv on the standard FMS 4 blade 14x8x4 is an approximate equivalent. With about the same performance. The FMS Mustang uses a 540kv standard motor so the 580kv is a 'hot replacement. A little bit like replacing the Alison engine with the Merlin.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 4 minutes ago, Paul Johnson 4 said: David The NTM 4248 650kv with the Dynam 13x7.5x3 is a great match. On a 4 cell 3300mah you'll get 4 to 5 mins exciting flight times. The NTM 5050 580Kv on the standard FMS 4 blade 14x8x4 is an approximate equivalent. With about the same performance. The FMS Mustang uses a 540kv standard motor so the 580kv is a 'hot replacement. A little bit like replacing the Alison engine with the Merlin.? Thanks Paul! I have 1 set of FMS blades for the P51 (will pick up more - hopefully having even only a second set of four blades will mean single blades can be swapped in after a prangy nose over!), and have picked up some dynams for the Spit. Looks like the Spit will be happier on the higher revving 650kv? I'm planning on using 4S for both these planes and one other (my low wing "trainer" DB Gringo) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Trevor Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Having just sheeted in most of the undersides of the wing, I’ve set about opening up the aileron servo apertures and just wanted to say how well Richard’s cutting jig worked out. I normally regard servo hatches as more trouble than they’re worth and only retrofit them on the very rare occasions that a servo actually needs to be replaced, but this method (together with the accurate laser cutting) certainly took away a lot of the hassle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 (edited) Well as I am now happy with the chalking I removed it with a damp cloth and replaced it with Humbrol dust wash using an airbrush. Last will be to airbrush some smoke wash for the exhaust and gun stains and add some chip marks/wear on the walk ways. Edited February 22, 2021 by Paul Johnson 4 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 Well, I'm not sure if I've made a bit of a disaster with the port wing! I had the wing on the jigs to sheet the underside and held the sheet in place with some various weights while the glue dried, keeping in mind Paul's point about not causing the wing to bow. However..... now the lower sheeting is complete, if I look along the trailing edge three is indeed a slight bow, so that the underside of the wing trailing edge is slightly concave. How much of an issue is this likely to be do you think? And it was all going so well! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 (edited) Tim Does it look a little like a gull wing? If it is then if you look back into the thread you'll see that this is normal. This is explained there due to rib aerofoil profiles. Edited February 23, 2021 by Paul Johnson 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Kearsley Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 Yes, just found that post Paul, thank you. It does indeed look that way, so I'm relieved! Onward and upward! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 I know I was perturbed when I noticed it but remembered discussing this with Richard a while back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 Well got the U/C legs looking not too bad just need some paint on them when the glue dries orf.. Took the excess snake outers and split them down the middle to slide them over the wire... oh if you do this watch your fingers when cutting the snake outers! the clips will fit the snake nicely used the smaller bits to make them look bigger.. Degreased the parts including the wire and wicked super glue down the legs. Used the blocks that came with the legs but needed to pack them with some plasticard to get the doors where I wanted them. Glued the clips and packing pieces held with the screws and fixed with canopy glue to help hold it all together. Once dry removed the screws and glued the doors on with the gear up to get it aligned properly. My gear cut out was different to the kits layout so it shouldn't be that critical for the doors to lay on top of the wing. Obviously you will need to play about with this and move/pack were needed. On mine once the doors where dry I pilot drilled from the inside through the clips then fixed from the outside Oh and added the required whitewall rim ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Hazell 1 Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 1 hour ago, Paul Johnson 4 said: Well got the U/C legs looking not too bad just need some paint on them when the glue dries orf.. Took the excess snake outers and split them down the middle to slide them over the wire... oh if you do this watch your fingers when cutting the snake outers! the clips will fit the snake nicely used the smaller bits to make them look bigger.. Degreased the parts including the wire and wicked super glue down the legs. Used the blocks that came with the legs but needed to pack them with some plasticard to get the doors where I wanted them. Glued the clips and packing pieces held with the screws and fixed with canopy glue to help hold it all together. Once dry removed the screws and glued the doors on with the gear up to get it aligned properly. My gear cut out was different to the kits layout so it shouldn't be that critical for the doors to lay on top of the wing. Obviously you will need to play about with this and move/pack were needed. On mine once the doors where dry I pilot drilled from the inside through the clips then fixed from the outside Oh and added the required whitewall rim ? Why are you replacing the ones that come with the DSR's, Paul? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 Gordon, Can you let me know how you bent the undercarriage legs mine our fouling the central spar and need a tweak. I am not sure how best to do it due to the thickness of the wire. Also can anybody post a pic of the trailing edge I have seen Eric's is that the best profile? Thx again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 1 hour ago, David Hazell 1 said: Why are you replacing the ones that come with the DSR's, Paul? Mine didn't ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gordon McConnell Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 37 minutes ago, Jonathan S said: Gordon, Can you let me know how you bent the undercarriage legs mine our fouling the central spar and need a tweak. I am not sure how best to do it due to the thickness of the wire. Also can anybody post a pic of the trailing edge I have seen Eric's is that the best profile? Thx again Hi Jon, I removed the U/C legs from the retract units with the unit extended. The wire is held in by two grub screws in the side of the retract block that swivels to retract the gear. Don't try to bend the wire with it installed in the retract unit or worse, in the wing! You will cause some damage that way. Once the wire is out (see Paul's photo above) you can grip the end in a vice and gently bend the wire by hand in the plane of the spring loop to realign it. I tried to centralise the leg in the wheel bay. I did not have to bend mine very much to get it sitting perfectly. You then insert it back in the retract unit and tighten up the grub screws. Some trial and error might be needed to get it just right. My trailing edge is not as neat as Eric's one. The upper and lower skins are overlapped on mine which make the trailing edge a little thicker. Maybe more robust to damage but there will be no performance penalty at this scale! Hope that helps. Gordon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted February 23, 2021 Share Posted February 23, 2021 Gordon, Thanks that is what I was thinking I should do. I have already removed the leg from the servo, now I just need to find my vice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 The finished article Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flyer Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 That's very effective Paul, great job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 10 hours ago, Jonathan S said: Gordon, Can you let me know how you bent the undercarriage legs mine our fouling the central spar and need a tweak. I am not sure how best to do it due to the thickness of the wire. Also can anybody post a pic of the trailing edge I have seen Eric's is that the best profile? Thx again I would not worry too much about trailing edges, I have a CML Me 109 65" span and the tail plane and elevator are flat 1/4" sheet not even the front rounded and it flies well. You just have to look at the current foam RTF'S and the wings all along the trailing edge are abut 5mm thick and they fly well. I always made the trailing edge sharp but it suffers from the slightest knock, I am not so fussy now. Paul, I look at my P51 U/C and think it spoils it after seeing yours I may take time out from the Tempest and smarten it up. Not too keen on adding too much weight as it is nose heavy with a 4s 4000 in the tray. Did they have white sidewalls in WW2 ? if so it would probably be some invasion marking white painted on. It was a craze in the 1950's to have white side walls you could buy white rubber paint, one firm even made rubber overlays that had to be fitted by removing the wheel letting the air out of the tyre , then fitting the side wall which had a thin membrane between the tyre and the rim. At speed they used to flap like washing on a clothes line and did not fare well when the tyre got a puncture. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted February 24, 2021 Share Posted February 24, 2021 Eric, The Pilot of the 'Berlin Express' William Overstreet (Bill) insisted that all his aircraft had the red caps and white walls on. A bit of his background William Overstreet. in one interview, it's on YouTube somewhere, the interviewer asks him what the area around the tower was like when he went under it and he replied 'I don't remember I was kinda busy at the time ' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted February 25, 2021 Share Posted February 25, 2021 Hi Before I do the final wing sheeting. Does this look right. Is it too far from the rib ends. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 Hi Jon, flap area looks fine aileron ribs see to be a bit further in from the edge. don't take anything off the trailing edge if it is in a straight line from flaps to tip, sand the trailing edge lower sheet to a taper following the angle of the ribs the top should then fit neatly on . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 Eric Here is another photo Not sure if I need to trim a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 Yes Jon, you do need to trim it .If you look at the tip end and follow the profile you will see where the top sheet should end, take an off cut f 1/16" balsa about 3mm wide hold it on the edge of the top sheet and you will see approx. how much to trim off. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonathan S Posted February 26, 2021 Share Posted February 26, 2021 Eric, As always thanks for your help. It's my first ever sheeting and I think I over compensated all round. I am having to do some serious sanding on the leading edge to be able to fit the leading edge strip on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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