Tim Donald Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 I'm just finishing a Pilot-RC Laser 67" and am working out where / how to mount the ESC. It's 120Amp Hobbywing Platinum (6S, 5000mah Lipo). I am thinking about mounting it to the bottom of the firewall for maximum airflow and to help balance the CofG. I am new to electric and was wondering how hot the ESC is going to get? Can I mount it with Velcro or best to use screws? Also can it just go directly against the ply / carbon or does it need some sort of heat protection. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dwain Dibley. Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 Give it the best cooling you can, I always use velcro, as that's easy to get out just in case. D.D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Miller Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 I just have a compartment for it and allow it to float loose. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 If you have motor standoffs (spacers) you can possible use cable ties to attach the ESC to them. Gives a nice airflow over both sides of the ESC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Skilbeck Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 If you use velcro be aware that the flat side of the ESC is usually the heat sink, so if you use this side for the velcro then you'll not have much airflow over the heatsink. What ESC are you using? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin Carpenter Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 Cable ties every time ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 It should never get hot enough to scorch ply or carbon but at 120A size it may get warm enough to soften the glue on self-adhesive velcro. As Geoff said, cable ties to the motor standoffs with some insulation in between or I drill pairs of holes to loop the ties through the bulkhead or motor box. Smaller escs (40-50A) I often leave loose relying on the leads to restrain them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Donald Posted October 15, 2020 Author Share Posted October 15, 2020 Thanks everyone. I think I will go with velcro onto the firewall and a couple of cable ties just in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Doctor Chinnery Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 Another vote for cable ties around stand-offs, or alternatively looped through the firewall holding the ESC against the firewall behind or below the motor - which will be almost as well ventilated. One of my Oldies has an ESC cable tied out in the breeze under the fuselage between the U/C wires - another similarly fixed to the side of its triangular Correx fuselage - oddly enough I've never had an ESC in any of these locations emit the magic smoke. I have done a 'Miller' and had a small ESC free floating (sort of safely suspended by the stiffish wires from the battery and to the motor) in a not very generous fuselage space and got away with it. It's hard to know how much/little airflow we need until we find out the hard way - all I can say that might be helpful is that none of my 'outdoor ' ESCs are any more than slightly warm to the touch when picked up after landing. The Experts in electric flight (Multiplex) always design in excellent airflow over battery, ESC and motor - see FunJet, Elapor Gliders and FunCub - so if in doubt go for as much as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Capt Kremen Posted October 15, 2020 Share Posted October 15, 2020 Two similar threads going on here - See also '45A w/BEC ESC' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SIMON CRAGG Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 Not an advocate of tightly bending motor / esc wires to fit between the stand offs. I usually make an air "scoop" out of half a plastic tablespoon. Make a suitably sized hole on the side of the fuz, and tac the esc inside the hole. Glue and paint scoop to the outside. Air is forced in by the scoop, cooling the esc. Never, ever had a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DIGGER Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 Posted by Colin Carpenter on 15/10/2020 18:41:35: Cable ties every time ! 👍👍 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 Here’s how I mounted the one on my SIG Rascal, bolted to the firewall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Cotsford Posted October 16, 2020 Share Posted October 16, 2020 Posted by SIMON CRAGG on 16/10/2020 00:24:38: Not an advocate of tightly bending motor / esc wires to fit between the stand offs. Tim is asking about a 120A unit in a 67" model so I would expect that there will be plenty of scope to fit the ESC either across two of the standoffs or to the side of the motor box without any tight bends, certainly I've managed it on two Wot'sWots, a Magnatilla and an Acrowot without straining anything. I don't like putting the ESC between the standoffs behind the motor as there's usually a chunk of spinning shaft protruding back there. My favourite to date, fitted in a handy air duct with cable ties: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Donald Posted October 19, 2020 Author Share Posted October 19, 2020 Thanks for all your help. I have now cable tied the ESC to the side of the motor box which looks to get the best ventilation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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