Danny Fenton Posted March 17, 2021 Author Share Posted March 17, 2021 Spent a bit of time working out the tubes. the trick is to retain the washers and screws in the tube so the driver finds the screw head (Allen head) easily but the screw cannot come out. A sequence of incremental tubes achieved this nicely. The larger section straddles without impeding the washers. The thinnest section is just big enough for the driver shaft, but smaller than the screw head, so it is trapped inside. Started the tidy up, not as easy as it was to cut open!!! And yes that is a skim of filler towards the trailing edge..... ? 3 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Ovenden Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 (edited) Lovely work Danny. Edited March 17, 2021 by David Ovenden 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 12 hours ago, Danny Fenton said: Anybody have any pictures of Max's figures when printed? I have seen 3D renderings of figures before that look fantastic, only to be very disappointing when printed. Cheers Danny Here's one I did earlier, from memory it's 1/6th scale of a USAF pilot and it wasn't printed at a very high resolution and it's orange PLA because that is what was in the printer at the time! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 17, 2021 Author Share Posted March 17, 2021 Thanks Ron, I got impatient and purchased the file anyway. I asked Chris to print me one as a test at 1/8th scale just to see what it was like..... Hope he wont mind me showing this... I am impressed, so thanks for pointing me in the right direction ? Cheers Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 No problem, as I said earlier I think Max produces some of the best pilot designs around! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
john stones 1 - Moderator Posted March 17, 2021 Share Posted March 17, 2021 Didn't know Trump had been a Pilot. ? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Bott - Moderator Posted March 18, 2021 Share Posted March 18, 2021 Here he is in 1/8 size with the bottom half removed. This is as printed with no tidying up afterwards. 2 arms and his head are only held on here with Blu-tack, hence the gaps. 4 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 18, 2021 Author Share Posted March 18, 2021 Ooo thanks for showing that Chris, looks great! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 18, 2021 Author Share Posted March 18, 2021 Managed to fit the second Merlyn lock tube, and patch the sheeting. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 I have been meaning to show this since i did the piano wire aileron hinging. You can off course run the brass tube the full span of the aileron, but its heavy and there are cheaper materials. I use PTFE tubing from Hyperflight. The balsa blocks keep the tube aligned. I also sharpen the piano wire to give yourself a chance. I have in the past trusted I would be able to twist and rely on the piano wire finding the "path" after an hour of struggling I swore I would add guide tubes in future!! Obviously have the piano wire threaded through when you position and glue everything. In theory you only need to do the hinges once, but if you ever have to remove the aileron you will be thankful. This will allow me to finish and even paint the ailerons before fitting to the wing. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Basil Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 Thanks for that danny Bas 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted March 19, 2021 Share Posted March 19, 2021 Hi Danny, I used plastic tubing on the B. Taylor Warhawk I built 15 yr. ago not sure what plastic it was but I never had any problems with it. Much lighter than brass Cheers Eric. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 1 hour ago, Eric Robson said: Hi Danny, I used plastic tubing on the B. Taylor Warhawk I built 15 yr. ago not sure what plastic it was but I never had any problems with it. Much lighter than brass Cheers Eric. For the hinges as well? or just the guides? Not sure I would do that, but if you have had reliability and slop free then great. But I will stick to brass for the actual hinge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 Have been avoiding the aileron shrouds, I just don't enjoy doing them, but they make a big difference to the strength of the trailing edge, and ease of covering. Besides they look nice. Luckily the Auster ailerons are not shrouded that much so its a fairly easy job. If you read the mag then you will have seen my penchant for making sanding tools, this one sands a rebate about 6mm by .5mm in the trailing edge. You can use 64th ply or as I have in this case Mick Reeves Glass board. this is the finer of the two that he sells. Need to wick a small amount of thin CA from the underside still but you get the idea. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 (edited) Couldn't avoid the tail-plane any longer so bull by the horns... This allows me to fit the tail-plane centre section to the model and cover the fin - "properly" and then add the tail-plane. It does of course mean the rigging wire between the fin and tail-plane are functional on this model! Cheers Danny Edited March 19, 2021 by Danny Fenton 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 19, 2021 Author Share Posted March 19, 2021 This is what I am trying to replicate: Thanks again for the great pics Andy ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 20, 2021 Share Posted March 20, 2021 That’s a nicely finished model ( he thinks to himself before seeing the big toe). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 21, 2021 Author Share Posted March 21, 2021 Managed a sneaky 5 minutes in the workshop and got the servos mounted. I am thinking central servo for the closed loop for the rudder. An offset servo for the elevator pushrod, and a servo close to the side to feed the throttle. I cannot remember the last time I fitted a throttle servo!!! I didn't show on my last post but here are the two underbelly stringers that I added. I added underside supports at each end as Nick Cripps suggested, they do get thin towards the ends and would otherwise break easily. Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 21, 2021 Author Share Posted March 21, 2021 Servos are in, the elevator pushrod is made from 4mm square carbon rod. It was specially purchased for the Hawker Fury build and has a 3mm hole down the middle. This will allow a length of 3mm studding to be JB welded to the end. A 3mm clevis will do the connection to the servo nearest the rx. The pushrod will pass through a block of foam to absorb any vibration induced oscillations as it is quite long. I will mount the rx using double sided foam that comes with the FRSky stabilised Rx, wouldn't hesitate with electric, hopefully still okay with I.C. Cheers Danny 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 23, 2021 Author Share Posted March 23, 2021 had to open up the elevator horn area very slightly so that the pushrod can be fitted with the tail-plane centre section attached to the fuselage. You can also see the pushrod construction, I don't like snakes..... Cheers Danny Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 I too don't like snakes Danny, that is a very neat push/ pull rod . Is it 3/16 spruce? On the Tempest the plan calls for a snake for the rudder which has a tight S curve to exit in line with the tail plane centre in a fairing . it would be difficult to connect up unless the fairing is built around it, so as it is not going to be a competition model I will exit lower down and use a rigid rod. Enjoying you build so far. Cheers Eric. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 23, 2021 Author Share Posted March 23, 2021 Hi Eric, thank you my friend. Its a 4mm square carbon rod, but with a 3mm circular centre. Great for wing joiners, as the spars are often 4mm (they do a 6mm with 4mm centre too). Bucks composites, I think it was Martin Fane put me on to them. For rudders I like pull-pull ? I have a quandary now. A kind magazine reader read this month's column and saw I was trying, without success, to buy a Laser 80. He had one spare and has offered it me for a great price, so I have snapped it up. Apparently only been run once and then oiled and put away. So I could go with the Sato 82 as planned with a rail width of 35mm or open the gap slightly to take the Laser 80 which is 40mm wide at the crankcase. Not sure if he is a forumite, but thx Alex P. Cheers Danny 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eric Robson Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Some people have all the luck. Lovely engine the Laser, you may have to lower the tank or put a chicken hopper in as the Laser carb is lower than the Saito. They tick over like a watch and are a lot less messy than other engines as they take a lower oil content in the fuel. John at Laser is always on hand to help out with problems so you have no worries. Pull pull is a Thought for the Tempest, not a lot of room at the tail end but the wires just need guides. The wires could be attached to the rudder before it is fitted then pulled taught at the servo end. Cheers Eric. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny Fenton Posted March 23, 2021 Author Share Posted March 23, 2021 Been thinking about the instrument panel. Now this model is not going to be an all out scale model, but as you know I often fall into that bottomless detail pit, as I really suffer detail-itis. Just for a chuckle I would see if a picture could be enough? I doubt it will be, but looks better than I thought. It has proven the dimensions are about right. I may use the dials, and make a panel using styrene, and vac-form that funky panel surround. This is from the web and has provided the source. This is the one I will probably model, but the dash may not be identical. This is just a quick print to see how it looked if I got really lazy and just printed one to scale. I might splash out on Photo paper though ? Cheers Danny 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ron Gray Posted March 23, 2021 Share Posted March 23, 2021 Get a friendly person to 3D print one then use the print behind it to give you the dial details (as you've done before with resin for the glass, or as I do with white glue). 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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