Stock servo horns, push rod linkages and other control interfaces

[toto]

I'm on a roll .....

 

With reference to the kit supplied plastic items that generally come with kits and standard servos etc, is it worth while changing these items out for better quality versions right from the start ( build stage ).

 

I'm sure the stock items work well enough and get you started but from a reliability and strength point of view what ie the option.

 

I would think that the plastic items may be a bit more prone to binding although not to confuse the reason for binding as a get out for poor servo set up geometry to start with.

 

I did learn through building RC buggies some years ago that the swapping out of the plastic bearings for steel ball raced items made a huge difference.

 

What would be the first upgrades that you would look to do ? What's the opinion on types of push rod set up's ?

 

I'm a little way of building ..... even the ARTF Cessna that is winging it's way to me ( excuse the pun ). But I'd like to take any of the easier upgrades that I can when I do come to starting the limited / partial build.

 

Cheers for any input

 

Toto

[Engine Doctor]

Always check the hardware supplied as often 8ts rubbish. In particular check the thread fit between clevis and pushrod as these have been known to be so poor that a good tug will allow the clevis to slide off ! 

If your flying IC then check the tank as agian 9ften inferior tanks are supplied to keep c9sts down.

[toto]

Thanks.

 

I note the particular difference between the plastic horns etc operated by push rods with Z bend connections and threaded rods with clevis's. Without rubbishing the idea of using what's been supplied, is it worth just replacing many of these kit items. 

 

I think I have it in my mind that if I can afford to do so from the start, then I should but at the same time, am I in danger of just feeding the commercial machine ? Is it truly worth it in terms of a return in performance for the money spent ?

 

Toto

Edited March 18, 2023 by toto

[Engine Doctor]

Just check out the quality and fit of items/ hardware and if its OK use it. Don't throw it out if it's ok but dont risk using it if your not happy with it. Try and find an experienced builder in your club and have chat with them or get them to check out the hardware. 

Just check that the " experienced builder " you choose doesn't have loads of un-explained crashes 😉

[Graham Bowers]

Since the demise of my local shop I keep a small stock of snakes, clevises, horns, servos etc.

 

I routinely check the parts included with kits, and replace with quality items from stock if needed. It's down to judgement taking in to account what's supplied, what the model it etc.

 

If I read the question right, does it also query replacing the bits supplied with servos? I've never replaced bits supplied with servos as I've never felt the need to.

 

Most of my posts tend to get edited now as <CTL> <RTN> on some systems I use is useful. Here it immediately posts a half finished message. Muscle memory fighting me in this instance 😉

Edited March 19, 2023 by Graham Bowers
hit post too soon

[Nigel R]

Buy decent servos. Use what comes with them. 

 

Kit hardware? No idea. I like to use what I like to use and just use that on everything, if that makes sense. That likely would mean replacing some kit hardware but I don't really know as I mainly scratch build. Sorry. 

[toto]

Sounds like its horses for courses.

 

Sometimes the quality of the supplied parts may be down to the manufacturer of the kit which experience will help determine and sometimes could be based on just an inspection when fitting. My initial concerns were that the nylon fittings often supplied may not take much stress. 

 

If they look cheap and nasty and offer no confidence, dont risk your model with them and change them out. 

 

I think as many things, talking with other modellers at the field and learning from their experiences and opinions will be the order of the day.  

 

Toto

 

 

[GrumpyGnome]

The internet can actually be your friend too...... e.g. lots of complaints about hardware on some planes (e.g. Riot and Panic ARTF)..... if it's a consistent moan, it's probably true.

[Bruce Collinson]

Start by binning the clevises for, E.g. Kavan which have been reliable for me, then do as above and check the pushrod threads for an adequate fit.   There seems to be a recurring pattern with Chinese wire; soft.

BTC

[colin wray 2]

rubbish clevises on century ruckus  rudder and elevator broke fitting them onto the horns why do they do a lovely model and spoil it glad they broke now instead of on the maiden flight

 

[Robin Colbourne]

Nylon propellers used to come with a warning that they should be boiled before use.  Nylon, in comparison to othe plastics, can absorb water by a considerable percentage of its weight.  if it is too dry it is brittle.  Boiling the supplied nylon hardware is likely to improve its toughness.

The difference with good quality aftermarket hardware is that the likes of Kavan, probably take more care with moulding. Material used, mould temperatures and in the post-moulding annealing process and water content of the finished parts. 

[Andy Stephenson]

I always thought the talk about boiling propellers was an old wives tale. I never did it, although I did look into how to do it once but couldn't find a saucepan big enough to fully submerge one in. I regularly ran the old floppy nylon props without any trouble in their raw state.

[Nigel R]

Holds for any nylon, anywhere, RC bits, stuff on your car, clips and catches around the house.

 

[PatMc]

8 hours ago, Andy Stephenson said:

I always thought the talk about boiling propellers was an old wives tale. I never did it, although I did look into how to do it once but couldn't find a saucepan big enough to fully submerge one in. I regularly ran the old floppy nylon props without any trouble in their raw state.

Ditto. 👍

[Robin Colbourne]

I must admit I have never boiled any nylon parts, although I have had a few snap.  The yellow Grish Tornado props snapped at the hub (as I found when I dragged the engine out of the ground, after a less than perfect arrival...) and I've recently had a control horn on an ancient Wot 4 snap (fortunately in a 'hangar rash' incident, not in the air).  I flexed the other one to find there were rows of visible hairline cracks across it front to rear.

For anyone who can be bothered to read it, this is a document from a the British Plastic Federation about injection moulded nylon: Polyamides (including Nylon)  In brief, increased water content increases toughness, although ultimate strength and stiffness reduce.

[Cuban8]

For decades, some kit manufacturers and ARTF suppliers have got away with supplying junk or inappropriate  fittings and I'm sorry to say that magazine reviews have always skated around the issue, presumably to avoid upsetting the trade and threatening advertising revenue. Still an on-going problem according to previous posts above.

 

 

[Lowandslow]

You are dead right there Cuban. How long has the Max Thrust Riot been on the market with its incredibly poor cheaper than cheep clevises and less than free running elevator and rudder push rods, since 2012?  I bought a foamy one last month and it’s a nice enough model apart from these annoying  issues which still persist in 2023. I did point this out to both Century and the LMS supplier two weeks ago via emails and what does seem to have changed since 2012 is that they don’t bother to respond anymore. There must be more Riots flying and surviving than flying and crashing I suppose so my little niggle is not worthy of a reply. I do understand that the BMFA use these as trainers so I wonder if they upgrade theirs as a matter of course prior to flying 🤔

[Keith Billinge]

I agree; the Riot is plagued with cheap clevises and plastic parts that are not up to scratch.

That horrible rat-cage underneath, that passes for a battery hatch is abismal and the clevises are awful.

If max thrust were to use their buying ability to get decent plastic parts they'd improve their reliability and quality no end.

Doing things on the cheap help nobody.