Undercarriage Axle Pin

[Andy J]

Making up a two wheel undercarriage for a 60inch twin using a flat dural bar 3/4 x 1/8. The query is what is the best approach to make and attach the axle pins for say a 2 3/4 inch wheel. Had thought I would be able to buy some suitable axles from HK but they are on back order so need to think of another approach that will survive the loads applied.

 

Assume the axle is going to need some form of shoulder on the outside edge with a short threaded section on one end to fix or pass through a clearance hole on the dural with the axle being secured by a suitable lock nut. Making these certainly would be possible, but its not going to be a 5min job so looking for other suggestions.

[Andy Gates]

My short term solution while you make "propper" axles would be a bolt threaded though your bar from the inside, a locknut tightened up tight to the bar on the outside, wheel and a second lock nut on the outside of the wheel.

 

This may well wear the wheel hole though.

[Eric Robson]

I've made axles with a 4mm bolt 2nuts and a piece of 4mm ID brass tube . Cut the tube to go through the wheel, drill out the wheel to suit the tube put a washer on the bolt, with the tube inside the wheel feed the bolt through put the nut on with a washer next to the wheel feed it through the undercarriage leg and put a nut on to secure it. Make sure the wheel turns freely and lock the nut either side of the undercarriage leg. 

[john stones 1 - Moderator]

Not a fan of the axles, bolts everytime for me.

[Don Fry]

I use bolts. To be kind to the wheels, I use brass tube sleeves, so the don’t wear them on the thread. 

[leccyflyer]

Yep, bolts and, if needed, brass tube inserts for me too. I have a small stock of nice 3mm Allen head bolts which have the section closest to the head not threaded for about 15mm or so, which make good axles.

[Mike T]

Choose a bolt length such that the plain section of the shank is mostly inside the wheel.

Bolt-wheel-nut-washer-u/c leg-washer-nut:

 

 

Dremel off the excess

Edited July 4, 2023 by Mike T

[J D 8]

Another method which can be used with stub axles [bolts] or with full length axles is to solder on to the bolt or wire axle a length of brass tube that is a bit longer so the end can be drilled and wheel retained with washer and cotter [split] pin. 

[Andy J]

Thanks all, will go down the route of using a suitable size bolt with a brass or stainless steel sleeve, so will have to see if I have in stock as just put an order into Model Fixings yesterday.

[Paul De Tourtoulon]

Just looking at your UC JD8, I have a couple like that, but as the elastics don't last I have replaced them using springs from old oil seals the last from motorbike forks.

[Don Fry]

A deluxe version, from Flair kits, is a soldered brass outer to the steel axle. Overlong from the axle, to allow the spacer/thrust washers to be fitted, you drill a hole, and  ( drill hole, then grind the brass away for an exact fit, easier than a hole where you want it.) Then a split pin to hold the wheel on. No more one wheel on wagon, for landing. 
idiot here,  just noticed, JD8 has mentioned it. 

Edited July 4, 2023 by Don Fry
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