Jump to content

Wot4e incidence


Recommended Posts

Does anyone have access to Naca 0018 cd/AOA plot looks like. I am particularly interested in the stall AoA (the approx., ignoring scale effect). Also the max lift drag AoA.

 

I have an idea what it might be, although I seem to make more mistakes these days. Plus the guy I used to discuss these things with, before I did anything, is no longer with me. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is a reason, in that my wot 4 suffered massive damage to the body when it crashed, essentially doing I believe is called a half Cuban roll. Then in the vertical part of the loop, it kept on going absolutely vertically down, no amount of bending the tx stick altered the trajectory. The result was a body beyond repair.

 

I decided to rebuild a body out of ply.  I carefully drew around the remains (after gluing together), then designed (although that is pushing the concept) the internals. With new metal geared servos.

 

Anyway the first flight did not go well with the best club flyer doing the honours (not me).

 

Since then I have been carefully checking everything I can think of. My last check has been the wing/tail plane incidence which is at  5 degrees (just slightly less), where the stall AoA is 15 degrees for Naca 0018 (0010 & 0012) I believe. It would be good to know what the relationship is with a unsullied model, in case I did not do the reassebly of the bent fuz well.

 

the first picture is with new body.

 

 

WP_20231030_15_10_02_Pro.jpg

WP_20231004_14_16_44_Pro.jpg

WP_20231004_14_15_58_Pro.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

22 minutes ago, Arthur Harris said:

@leccyflyer I don't get the joke. The thread is about the small wot4 e wing incidence. What am I missing?

Your post gave me a chuckle. It reminded me of questions and answers like

 

"Does anyone know what is the wingspan of a  Hurricane?"

"Well, it's the distance between one wingtip and the other wingtip."

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

18 minutes ago, leccyflyer said:

Your post gave me a chuckle. It reminded me of questions and answers like

 

"Does anyone know what is the wingspan of a  Hurricane?"

"Well, it's the distance between one wingtip and the other wingtip."

 

I didn't know the context; all I saw was this OP:

 

Does any one know what the incidence between wing and tail plane is/should be. 

 

This is the polypropylene electric version with the 46" (approx1.2m) wing?

 

Which you must admit was mystifying, lol!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It did survive the first attempt. It stalled out in climbing out.

 

Philip I have also set a previous model at 2 degrees, from memory. A pushy cat built with a non standard wing using Naca 0009.

 

Given that on the 0-0 line symmetrical sections generate no lift, where as the so called flat bottom sections are generating lift with a 0-0, AoA,  at often -5 degrees, I now wonder, if that is the reason that the Wot 4 takes of so quickly, climbing out steeply.

 

Hence the question, hmm, what is the standard Wot 4 AoA.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is useful to know. I now suspect that I did not straighten the fuz out.

 

I now have something to see how it can be done, conveniently, or the easiest. I will initially look at 2 degrees, whilst also considering 1 degree.

 

I guess the reason being is that for a trainer type, you want the fuz pretty much level, when trimmed to fly at a reasonable speed, with little elevator trim, requiring some up. At the same time inverted flight requiring little down elevator to keep the nose up. The thick symmetrical section with a really well rounded LE provides the good characteristics at the stall, and when changing the pitch quickly.

Edited by Erfolg
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A bit of light relieve, not related directly to the thread.

 

At present I am playing "Halo 4", there is a sequence where you are required to fly down a tunnel/valley  (the Sci-Fi type). The tunnel obviously, as a game, has slots to get through, obstructions within the tunnel, air locks that are closing and something's that fall into the tunnel. For us modellers quite easy, except that our down is up, and up is down it is when something suddenly gets in the way requiring a pitch correction, then I instinctively put in the opposite to what was required. I tried altering the controller button option, but did not seem to work when in the game. 

 

Now back to my calculator which I do not think I have/had touched in some +20 years ( for sine calc).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I still use the Frank Castle's 4 figure tables I've had for 60 years! I find the trig functions easier and more certain in printed form - I rarely use the log tables, but still get my slide rule out occasionally - it hasn't ever needed new batteries in a similar amount of time 🙂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 27/01/2024 at 15:31, Erfolg said:

Does anyone have access to Naca 0018 cd/AOA plot looks like. I am particularly interested in the stall AoA (the approx., ignoring scale effect). Also the max lift drag AoA.

 

I have an idea what it might be, although I seem to make more mistakes these days. Plus the guy I used to discuss these things with, before I did anything, is no longer with me. 

I'd use between 0.5 and 1 deg.  5 deg is far too much and would need a very tail high attitude to fly level.  2 deg is too much.

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The easy way would be to find someone with same model in good flying condition and put an incidence meter on it!    Various designs for homemade incidence meters and some commercial ones.   

It is also possible to put a piece of  balsawood, ply or card against a fuselage side and copy the fuselage outline ensuring a portion is paralell with the tailplane.  It is a most popular model  so someone must have one for you to  take the data from.

 

My recent experience with an UglyStik type model might be of help.  I built an 'own design' sort of mid size between Ugly Stik and the smaller Liddle Stik without all the fancy aileron curves and weird  fin.  My model has a "Trainer 60 " airfoil (from Profilli)  which is blunter than the equally thick but visually sharp pointed Ugly Stik airfoil.    I lengthened the nose for electric.    Flew a few times over the years but not really satisfying so kept as a reserve model.   None of my regular flying pals flys the same mode so I couldn't get a second opinion.   Brought out recently and flew a few times then a club member said it looks as though it has negative incidence.  I said " no it's exactly like an Ugly Stik or Liddle Stik which has zero incidence".   All my pals convinced me it looked as though  it had negative incidence so I went home and got a scalpel and cut off 1/16 inch off rear wing seat which gave it about 1 degree positve ( visually ) Result next flight it flew much better!     I went home and rechecked every Ugly Stik type plan online and they all seem to have zero incidence compared to tailplane.

So my experience is that 1 degree (approx) works well with my plane while everyone else finds zero works well on Ugly Stiks which have a slightly different airfoil.

Try 1 degree positive with your Wot4 replica.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have beeb considering the option you have put forward, I decided on this current course of action, because I have not been to our field for some + months, the weather here has been so bad.

 

My own method is a home made type of measurement process, using spirit levels, bits of wood an card.

 

I will post a picture of my ad-hoc set up, not suitable for field use.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have a smartphone, then there are applications for levels that work well.  I've had a Robart Incidence meter for years and find it useful for checking biplanes, particularly the top wing, which sometimes seems to hang in mid-air with minimal reference to the rest of the model 🙂

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Your test pilot should be able to diagnose the fault ie to much or too little incidence. Then simply pack the LE or TE with balsa shims until it flys correctly then go home and build it in by adjusting the wing seat. Simple on an electric model as no oil contsmibation to worry about.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...