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What's Your Experience Using Super 'Phatic Glue for "CA" Hinges?


Scruffmeister
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I am trying to build up the courage to use Super 'Phatic glue to secure the "CA" hinges in my current build (a 60" electric 3D/aerobat). The testing I have done with scrap wood and hinges has been successful and the joint seems very strong. The wicking properties are evident and can be seen in the top half of the hinge in the attached photo.

 

However, I am unsure of the long term properties of the joint when subjected to constant flexing in this environment. If you have been using Super 'Phatic (or indeed any aliphatic) glue for "CA" hinges, please could you let me know your experiences, failures and longevity?

 

Thank you!

Screenshot 2024-02-27 110028.png

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I've always used aliphatic glue to glue on those hinges, CA can grab too quickly and allows minimum time for repositioning accurately whereas aliphatic gives you plenty of time to position exactly where you want, the fact that it wicks i.e. is a creeping glue to me seems to make it the perfect choice.

 

Been doing that now for well over ten years on planes that have hundreds or even thousands of flights and haven't had a failure yet an that is on 2 meter aerobat's and 60CC gassers, constant flexing isn't a problem because you aren't flexing the glue.

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Bit of both, squeeze some glue into the joint and also lightly coat the hinge, insert and wipe away excess with a damp tissue, also it doesn't bloom like cyno. I don't use Super Phatic just aliphatic from Deluxe Materials, you don't get time to hang about but time is sufficient to accurately align an aileron with the rest of the wing in my experience. 

 

Obviously make sure to give it a good pull test.

Edited by Philip Lewis 3
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4 hours ago, Philip Lewis 3 said:

I've always used aliphatic glue to glue on those hinges, CA can grab too quickly and allows minimum time for repositioning accurately whereas aliphatic gives you plenty of time to position exactly where you want,

 

As far as I know, the flocked hinges are inserted first, you get everything all lined up in place, and only then you drop CA onto the hinge to fix it all in position. There's no 'repositioning' going on...?

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I suspect that Pacer Hinge Glue is essentially aliphatic and their advice is to fill the pre-cut slot with glue then insert the hinge, which has worked fine for me. I have a heepodeemic nurdle on the bottle spout and insert that into the hinge cavity until a line of glue appears at the hinge line, then Insert the hinge, put a smear on the half of the hinge that is left sticking out and a squirt into the hinge slit on the control surface then bring them together, wiping away any excess that seeps onto the hinge line.. Quicker to do than to write out and avoids having to use CA, which is a real bonus for me.

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5 minutes ago, leccyflyer said:

Pacer Hinge Glue is essentially aliphatic

 

...but may dry to a more rubbery consistency, may contain something to etch nylon, etc.

 

maybe not "just aliphatic" ? 🙂

 

I use the stuff on those thicker nylon hinges (without flocking) in much the same manner you describe (fill the slot, then insert the hinge) - it has never failed me.

 

I have destruction tested a couple of test pieces - and both times the nylon hinge ripped before the wood / hinge joint would let go.

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19 hours ago, leccyflyer said:

Please don't misquote my post Nigel.

 

OP is asking about aliphatic and you're talking about something else.

 

That said -

 

I'm not sure how I'm misquoting your post, I quite literally pressed the 'quote' button.

 

I'm not even trying to argue your point, rather I'm agreeing with it.

 

No offense intended.

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3 hours ago, Nigel R said:

 

OP is asking about aliphatic and you're talking about something else.

 

That said -

 

I'm not sure how I'm misquoting your post, I quite literally pressed the 'quote' button.

 

I'm not even trying to argue your point, rather I'm agreeing with it.

 

No offense intended.

I said " I suspect that Pacer Hinge Glue is essentially aliphatic....". You edited the quoted post to remove the qualifier, that I had precisely inserted to preface the point I was making.  That changes the point and makes it look like an assertion on my part, which it is not.  It's simple quoting etiquette not to misrepresent by omission, a post which is clearly a qualified statement..

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I have been impressed by the qualities of De Luxe Products "Super Phatic" glue when building a new wing for my Baron.

 

I am simultaneously building a Galaxy Models "Mystic" and have reached the stage where I am hinging the control surfaces. I am using large Kavan pinned hinges on this model which will be powered by a Laser 155. https://www.slecuk.com/accessories/hinges/kavan-heavy-duty-pin-hinge-10-per-pkt. In the past I have always used epoxy to glue hinges to the airframe after applying a little grease to the pivot.

 

Do you think that Super Phatic would be suitable for the hinges in this installation?

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I’ve got a pot of that, very good glue, and I’ve used it for hinges . Rubbery glue=tough.
But, being a bloke wot has been round the block, you know the answer, 5 minutes to make a test piece, dry it for a day, and break it.

Then YOU know, one less fail point.

 

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Today's my seventy-sixth birthday, lots to do so I don't have much time but herewith the results of using De Luxe Materials Super Phatic glue with large Kavan pinned hinges as suggested by Don Fry above. These will be used on my Laser 155 powered Mystic.

 

Slots were made into two pieces of scrap 1/4" (6mm) balsa. Five drops of the glue were put on each face of each leaf of the hinge and the two pieces of wood were pressed together. Having left the joint to dry for more than 24 hours I found it impossible to pull the two pieces of wood apart. Normally I put some form of grease on the fulcrum usually butter but this time I did not bother. The hinge moves freely and I did not add cocktail sticks or dress makers' pins.

 

I have used this glue extensively in the build of the new wing of my Baron and have been very impressed by it.

 

 

Experiment with Super Phatic Glue..JPG

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Happy Birthday - and it might be best to get the Moderators to remove exact details of your birthday!   Date of birth is so often used as a password that it might cause problems if too many know it......

 

Could be a good idea to 'pin' the hinges on a fairly large model to be really safe.

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I wrote off the fuselage (amongst other things) on my ARTF Wot 4 a few days ago. The wing is almost undamaged but one of the ailerons came out, complete with the hinges, as did the rudder. It's 5 years since I assembled it, but I think I used cyano. When I build a model, I always pin the hinges with cocktail sticks (about 2mm dia), as it was an ARTF I used what is supposed to be standard practice but in extremis the hinges came out.  I never had any issues with the flying until the ultimate test and, when checked, the ailerons and rudder seemed firmly attached.

 

Personally, if I were building the model, whatever glue I used I'd pin the hinges.

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