What 3-D Printer Filament(s) Do You Use

[Andy-H]

I am thinking of buying a 3-d printer. One of the main parameters of which printer to buy seems to be the type of filament likely to be used.

 

Just wondered what range of filament people use when printing parts for rc planes, bearing in mind component strength requirements and exposure to the elements, given the fact that these are flown outside. Would welcome any guidance on this.

[EvilC57]

For a couple of recent rc models from Planeprint, ColorFabb LW-PLA for most of the airframe, Sunlu PLA+ for the more highly stressed parts, Sunlu PETG for motor mounts (because it withstands high temperatures better than PLA), and ColorFabb Varioshore TPU for the tyres.

 

For any future models intended to be used outdoors, I’d investigate ColorFabb’s LW-PLA-HT because of its better tolerance of hot weather conditions.

 

My printer is an Ender 3 V2. But if I was starting out now, I’d probably buy a Bambu Labs A1 or P series.

Edited August 9 by EvilC57

[PDB]

For my application which is printing things like control horns, firewalls, servo mounts, etc. I've been using eSun PETG on a Bambu Labs A1.

 

I was previously printing PETG ok on an Ender 3 however for me the A1 has been less hassle.

 

Bit more info at https://forums.modelflying.co.uk/index.php?/topic/54056-stik-time-v1/

Edited August 9 by PDB

[leccyflyer]

I mostly use PLA for the bits that I print, as they are usually scale detail parts and ease of printing is more important than strength. I've had variable quality from different PLAs, but on a recommendation on this forum I tried the iDig3 PLA and it has been by far the best that I have used. Their comms and customer service leave a heck of a lot to be desired, but I've been back for several rolls now, due to the hassle free printing on my Ender 5 Pro.

 

https://www.idig3dprinting.co.uk/product-category/3d-printer-filament/

 

I had no success at all trying to print with ABS on my first printer a Malyan M150 and so gave up on that. However, with the Ender 5 Pro, now fitted with an enclosure I find that I'm able to print ABS quite nicely, with exactly the same filament I'd failed with previously. That was due to printing some Me109 spinners, which I simply didn't trust in PLA, the results with ABS were smoother, stronger and even lighter.  I just took a lovely Lewis Gun for my Flair SE5A  off the printer a few minutes ago, printed in ABS and  have found that the clean up of the ABS is much nicer than with the PLA, with the styrene behaving just like styrene does. I'm impressed.

 

I'll have to try some PETG next - the enclosure does give a more controlled environment, but I fear that the higher temperature of the ABS printing is affecting the magnetic build plate surface on the printer, which doesn't have anywhere near the grab that it had previously. IT's said that you shouldn't exceed a bed temperature of 65 degrees C with those magnetic beds and the bed temperature for the ABS is much higher than that, at 100 degrees C in my case.

[Andy-H]

Great, thanks all. I did wonder whether ABS capability might be useful later on, so the guidance on what to use for what purpose is very helpful. Thank you. 

[EvilC57]

1 hour ago, leccyflyer said:

…I tried the iDig3 PLA and it has been by far the best that I have used. Their comms and customer service leave a heck of a lot to be desired…

I used iDig3D once or twice, but I found his communication to be almost nonexistent. I think he’s a one man band.

 

I’ve had much better service from 123-3D.co.uk when it comes to buying printer supplies.

[PDB]

6 hours ago, Andy-H said:

Great, thanks all. I did wonder whether ABS capability might be useful later on, so the guidance on what to use for what purpose is very helpful. Thank you. 

 

I've been printing for 4 years now and at times it's been a frustrating experience however I wouldn't look back.

 

The biggest issue for me has been dialling in the settings on my printer for a specific filament and I've found what works for one person hasn't always worked for me. 

 

IMO whatever printer you get the most important thing is to develop a methodical calibration and troubleshooting process with filaments.

 

If you're at the budget end don't get too hung up on which printer to buy, the Enders and Bambu Labs can all produce crap and great results, IMO it's down to the person operating them.

 

The big leap for me has been getting to grips with a 3D CAD program and being able to turn an idea in my head into a physical object. It amazes me that capability is in the hands of people like me for not a lot of money.

 

It could be a frustrating journey but if you stick at it a very, very rewarding journey.

Edited August 9 by PDB

[Andy-H]

Thanks. This is going to be my winter project, learning how to use one of these gadgets. Current thinking is either Ender 3 V3 / Bambu Labs A1 for ready assembled or at the other end of the scale, possibly a kit build Prusa MK4, based on a recommendation from a friend who’s given me a demo. 

[MikeQ]

Hi

 

Agree with the above about developing a process.  You’ve got to be methodical.  Especially if resin printing.  If you get poor results its probably you 😀.  It gets pretty easy once you work out what works for you.  
 

i’m using Fusion 360 personal edition.  Theres some limitation but I’m not doing anything complicated.

 

just used my setup to create a wing building jig for symmetrical section wings.  (Control line F2B trainer).  
You’ll no doubt come up with all sorts of uses once you get away with it 😀

 

Edited August 10 by MikeQ

[Simon Chaddock]

Andy-H

If you are thinking of printing a complete plane using a commercially available set of stl flies then you will likely be given recommendations for the best filament to use for each part and the printer settings.

They may also say what actual printer they used so it is possible some of the recommended settings may require some minor adjustment to work well on your printer.

You can see that there is quite a bit to learn about "what adjustment causes what effect" before you can reliably achieve perfect prints.

At least with a popular commercial set of files you know it can be printed. If it doesn't work properly then it is down to your printer settings so don't be shy to ask for help on here.

 

Eventually you may want to be able to design something yourself, I certainly did. This opens up a whole new learning experience not only to master a CAD package but to learn what shapes can or cannot be actually made using a 3D printer as well the benefit and properties of the various filament materials.

Just don't expect too much too soon. Start with a simple small part and slowly progress. It does take time, trial and error along with quite a bit of frustration.

[EvilC57]

I can’t comment on other 3D printed rc model designers (Eclipson etc.), but for Planeprint’s models there are a set of ‘profiles’ on the website for setting up Cura slicer parameters for different parts of the model. You have to spend some time entering these parameters and saving them to be recalled as required later, before you even start printing the model. The construction manual then refers to these profiles, along with the material and any unique specific settings for each part as you print it.

 

There are also small test pieces on the website, which you should print to fine tune your printer before committing to the larger parts.

 

I’ve found that it’s also necessary to ‘project manage’ the slicing and printing in Excel for a large project like an rc model, so that I know which bits have been printed, and which still need doing.

[Andy-H]

ATM, my thoughts are to probably start off trying to print small parts - eg something like Mike has shown above - just to learn the basics. Also, there are designs for parts like scale pilots, vintage wheels to practice on. I’m playing with Fusion 360 to see how to put together a small design such as a receiver clip mount, and build up from there. I’m a long way off wanting to build a complete airframe just now !

[EvilC57]

...Or if you want a simpler, easier system that's more intuitive to learn on, Tinkercad web based 3D CAD is a good place to start. I've used it for a couple of years now, and like it. However it is limited compared with the much more powerful Fusion 360, which like Andy-H I'm playing with, but finding it a much harder learning curve.

Edited August 10 by EvilC57

[leccyflyer]

Another recommendation for Tinkercad for simple geometric shapes and for learning the basic. I've done a few bits and pieces for myself in Tinkercad - u/c doors, window frames,  holders for various radio components, switches etc. Nothing complicated but significantly easier to actually design simple things than with the more powerful packages.

[Mike Chantler]

On 10/08/2024 at 16:54, EvilC57 said:

...Or if you want a simpler, easier system that's more intuitive to learn on, Tinkercad web based 3D CAD is a good place to start. I've used it for a couple of years now, and like it. However it is limited compared with the much more powerful Fusion 360, which like Andy-H I'm playing with, but finding it a much harder learning curve.

 

I second that! - Fusion is extremely powerful but rather confusing and frustrating to start with. I think it took me about a 18 months off and on to really get to grips with. Given time, I can now generate quite complex fuselage shapes for a 3D printer, but I suspect that the next time I use it I will have forgotten how I exactly did these!

 

The key I think is not to be too ambitious at the beginning. Small things made out of simple rectangular blocks and cylinders such as servo trays etc are a good place to start. The other is to keep really good notes of all the tutorials that you visit and the tips that you pick up along the way!

 

I've found it very useful and like the others would not go back 🙂 

[Lipo Man]

I had been using a Creality Ender 3, and it was a frustrating and time consuming process getting decent prints off it. Just switched to a Bambu Labs A1 and it’s a totally different experience. It’s what I hoped the Ender would be - it just works, and I haven’t had a bad part since I got it. I wouldn’t consider any other printer for anyone starting out. 
As for materials, any generic cheap PLA will do 90% of the stuff I do, and I just tried printing a plane for the first time using Colorfabb LW-PLA. I had tried with the Ender and gave up, but it printed perfectly on the A1. Assembly took two hours and I had a smooth maiden on Sunday. Very chuffed. 
 

 

Edited August 12 by Lipo Man

[EvilC57]

I have to say I’ve never had any bother printing with ColorFabb LW-PLA on my Ender 3 V2. Both the models below were printed on it. The important thing I found, was to follow ColorFabb’s instructions on their website re. dialling in the correct print parameters for your printer by printing a number of their test cubes at different temperatures and print speeds. And in the case of the Planeprint models I’ve made, to spend time setting up their recommended print profiles before you start to print.

 

 

Edited August 13 by EvilC57

[leccyflyer]

I agree - it was you who put me onto the iDigi3 PLA and have found it really nice to use, with no difficulties printing on the Ender 5 Pro. My recent printing in ABS has been successful, which it never was on the Malyan M150. Recently have been hearing a lot about how good the Bambu Labs A1 is, so did a bit of research just the other day and was surprised to learn that it is not suitable for printing ABS, which would put me off. I'm really liking the ease of working with the finished ABS plastic, compared to PLA, which I've found does not really like to be carved or sanded, so the surface finish as printed is what you will end up with.

Edited August 13 by leccyflyer

[EvilC57]

I’ve not tried iDig3D’s PLA (I was put off using them again by their very poor communication post ordering). I haven’t tried printing with ABS yet - you have to be careful with the fumes don’t you? I've found the Ender 3 to be OK for various types of normal PLA, PLA+, LW-PLA, TPU and PETG. Although I must admit I do have a hankering for a Bambu P1 series sometime!

[leccyflyer]

They say that you need to be careful with the ABS fumes, but I don't notice them during printing, as it's done in the enclosure - so it's only when you open that you get a whiff of them. Certainly nothing like as potent as the fumes from the tin of Solarlac thinners that I used a wee bit of the other day - hell's teeth, that almost pure Toluene and horrible stuff. My SOP is to open the door and let the wind blow through for a minute to dissipate any fumes. Printing temp is much higher -240 degrees C and bed temperature 100 degrees C, which is definitely demagnetising my removeable build plate.

[PDB]

1 hour ago, leccyflyer said:

 Recently have been hearing a lot about how good the Bambu Labs A1 is, so did a bit of research just the other day and was surprised to learn that it is not suitable for printing ABS, which would put me off. 

 

 

For printing with materials requiring higher temperatures the P1 series are Bambu Labs entry point https://uk.store.bambulab.com/collections/p1-series 

Edited August 13 by PDB

[Ron Gray]

ASA and PC are, imo, far better than ABS and do not produce the same sort of fumes.

[leccyflyer]

Ron - don't they both require either the same print temperature as ABS, or even higher, in the case of PC? From what I've seen there are still concerns about fumes with ASA. I also read somewhere about the build plate requirements, with users having to make use of an acetone/ASA "slurry" on the print bed to improve adhesion and prevent warping.

[Ron Gray]

Yes they both require high print temps and therefore enclosures plus in my experience you need to leave them on the build plate for a long time to let them cool down slowly otherwise warping can occur. It also helps to preheat the enclosure first, something the Bambu Labs X1E is very good (a little bit more effort is required with my X1C). ASA does give off fumes but nowhere near the amount that ABS does, filters in the enclosure certainly help (again the X1E is superior to the X1C in that respect). I do not prepare my build plates in any way other unless it's a large flat print then a thin layer of 'Pritt Stick' on the smooth plates but on the textured plate even that isn't necessary for smaller prints.

[Andy-H]

Great stuff ! Thanks everyone, this is all really helpful.