Martin Harris - Moderator

Hi Kevin, I can’t answer your question but the designer, Richard Harris, is a regular contributor to this forum, so hopefully you’ll get a definitive answer soon.

Welcome to the forum Neil. Are you looking for a good home for them or trying to sell them?

Sorry to hear of your loss Jayne. I can’t see a Graham Murfet amongst the forum membership - perhaps he used a pseudonym here?

Off topic posts split into new thread.

Welcome to the forum. I’m sure you’ll get lots of opposing views on this but more importantly it illustrates the dangers of buying second hand radio equipment unless it’s from a known source. To put this in perspective, the majority of people at my club use (and are happy with) Spektrum. I have seen the odd person with problems requiring returning their transmitters to the agents for diagnosis/repair/replacement and can’t think of any similar occurrences with other makes but is this due to the size of the user base or a reflection on their reliability? I’ve seen multiple reports (mainly some years ago) of where transmitters returned with alleged problems had RF boards replaced “as a precaution” after being given a clean bill of health. Maybe this put some people off the idea of purchasing Spektrum (I was one) but to be fair, the vast majority of users seem perfectly happy.

That's fine if you can afford the power drop and finicky tuning if using a carb designed for glow fuel.

I’m finding it hard to envisage a model flicking out of such a gentle recovery but there must be a reason. Thoughts: Excessive elevator movement - or reversed exponential. Wing’s angle of attack moving under G loading - common with a high winged banded high wing model but difficult to imagine on this model. Leading edge too sharp - but this is an ARTF isn’t it? Considerable wash in. Very bad lateral balance. Very high wing loading. What can you try? If none of these apply and it doesn’t have strip ailerons, you could try setting some up aileron on both sides to introduce washout.

I suspect that might be quite an old one!

This is a topic that dates back almost as far as the introduction of fail safe. The only thing which is not up for debate is the throttle going to idle or cut. Setting of other control surfaces are very much personal preference and can relate to the circumstances. Bottom line is protection of people, not the model so my preference where uninvolved people are at potential risk would be spin inputs - minimum crash footprint, minimum distance travelled and high drag situation to limit energy. In other circumstances potentially saving damage to the model may come into your thinking but as pilot/operator you might be called to explain your actions were the worst to happen.

Is it possible that you exceeded the safe rotational speed for the propeller with your set-up Simon? Unlikely though, as in general, IC props have higher safety margins. If a blade failed it would certainly produce the result that you experienced but I’m with those who have used “IC” propellers successfully on electric motors. Alternatively, you might have been unfortunate enough to find an airframe/propeller resonance situation - something APC warn can happen with any propeller. In fact on some full sized aircraft, warnings to avoid particular rpm bands are placarded for this reason.

Prices look very reasonable! 😉

It's not something that the moderators can help with directly, but I have asked the forum administrator to investigate.

More a wheels up forced landing than a crash, perhaps? There's relatively little airframe damage apparent from the various pictures on line - good outcome for the crew, thankfully.

Where/when was that?

It’s nothing I’ve ever come across. Where I’ve used blade and box wing joiners (which I assume is what you’ve got), there have been additional wing retention methods. My guess is that this is a home produced retention method - are there witness marks on the joiner to confirm that the screw is in contact with it?

I suppose it depends on the value of the equipment and how much work you want to put into whatever it is. If it's worth the effort, I would look at either incorporating battery boxes or changing the battery technology to something like Li-Ion or LiFe. Once corrosion has taken hold, the existing terminals are practically unsalvageable with weakened structure and damaged plating. From their expiry date, it looks like those cells have been in there for an awful long time!

I hope you don't mean that you've been connecting an ammeter straight across the cell terminals! If so, you are then measuring the maximum current that the cell is capable of delivering! OK with an AA dry cell on a 10 amp scale but try this on a larger NiMH or a lithium battery and your meter won't last long!

A little more power, slightly less sensitive tuning and a lot of perceived "kudos".

In case anyone is unfamiliar with annealing aluminium, the trick is to rub ordinary bar soap on one side and heat from behind it until the soap turns dark brown. Don't rely on previous annealing - many aluminium alloys tend to age harden in a fairly short time.

If it drank any of the methanol, a new home will be the last of its worries... P.S. Don't forget that the use of wildcard characters to disguise bad language (removed) is contravening the forum rules! 👮‍♂️

I'm always conscious of the vulnerable end of the model that I'm maneuvering - unfortunately, the other end often seems to manage to find the nearest solid object!

Thread title changed to correct name for clarity.

I made several attempts at finding useable substitutes with no joy. They appear to be square section rings of an unusual size. I think it very unlikely that you’ll find any in a “selection box”.

Yet another modeller who doesn’t understand how servo grommets should be assembled! @8:15

What do you regard as excessive? A quick glance at eBay indicates plenty of Futaba transmitters at buy it now prices under £50 and many low starting price auctions. If you want some buyer’s protection, how about this from Midland Helicopters?