Mike T

Not something you'd want to advertise...

A 3542 would be fine (or even a 3536) but as Shaun and Geoff say, go with a lower kV (8-900ish) and a larger 12 or 13" prop.

Full disclosure: I've since been informed it was World Models Toughlon from Steve Webb! 😁 So -another worth looking into. Solarfilm polyester - was heavier than 'solarfilm' but not to be confused with Solarspan (which I believe was polyprop, like the 'film. The specific reason I used the polyester was because it was proof against petrol... Re HK film - if you filter by 'UK' and 'in stock' you get zero results...

Thanks for the input, all. I'd forgotten about the 4-max stuff - will have to look in to that. Easycoat - yes, I bought a couple of rolls and it is disappointingly 'diaphanous', so no good on sheet, but might look effective on (say) open structure glider wings. Interestingly, a friend brought a newly completed Nijhuis TSR2 to the field yesterday. I asked about the covering. "Ripmax" he said "I like that it's completely opaque..." He also brought a DSM Aerostar, which looked immaculate. I thought it was new, but it was all original - built in 1985 and covered in Solarfilm polyester, which I know of old. A product Solarfilm should have pushed much harder.

Does anybody know what differences (if any) there are between Easycoat, McGregor covering and Ripmax Aerofilm? How do they compare with Solarfilm or Hobbyking? Any preferences? PS - I exclude Ora from comparison as it's out of my price range!

I've used the SM 15/2 oiled fuels for over 20years. The 2% castor is neither here not there and I agree that at that level, it wouldn't be missed. I'd just use it an d make the change when you next buy more (mail order coming soon, so they say...)

Ah! A Meatloaf moment ('You took the words right out of my mouth...') I built mine for (early) electric and nursed it round one sedate circuit. It quickly got 'engined' with an original OS 40 4S (currently running a 40 Surpass) and it now it's as sedate or hooliganly as you like. It's the only plane that makes my rolling circles look good. The only thing that rules it out for the 'B' is that it won't spin properly. And I disagree with the notion that these planes were designed for 'pottering'. They were designed to climb to height fast with a screaming diesel or petrol and trimmed for a long flat glide. To the OP I'd say the Astro Hog is a good candidate, but with a needlessly complicated build. I'd suggest going on 'Outerzone' and use the matrix search function to narrow down your desired size to the mid '1940s to mid-1960's date range...

Do you know if her parents had any particular one in mind when they named her?

If you use sheet metal (P-K) screws, which are 'thread-formers' then they may well bind and shear. If they start to go stiff on you, quit while you're ahead and use the soldering iron trick to heat the nylon and free them off. Then replace with a new screw. The only way to avoid binding is to drill (or ream) the pilot hole for the screw's shank slightly over size, or preferably use thread cutting screws, which have a spiral flute to clear swarf. Also beware removing and replacing them too often, else they can go slack and you then need to drill out for the next size up! Re screws vs through bolts, I tend to err on the cautious side and use bolts on .60's up. But the fact that the screw heads sheared is testament to the grip of the thread in the nylon...

Similarly, I suspect we all know the answer, but the forum rules won't allow me to say what's the last thing that goes through a fly's head when it hits your windscreen...

...I should have added that bungees stretched across the grab handles are great for holding wing panels up against the headlining 🙂

I like that. I already have one bar, in the shape of my Volvo's tonneau cover. I'm going to make a second, to rest on the rear door cappings, with some padded 'tee' pieces to bear (lightly!) against the window glass and locate it fore and aft. I even have some pipe lagging hanging around...

This...

Nice. Reminds me of a GA Monospar

I don't own a Laser (never will...), that's why I qualified with an 'if' 🙂 Still, it would be an easier method for most other engines - except that the manufacturers of most other engines sensibly cast or engraved their engines capacities on them...

If you can remove the backplate, measuring the crank throw will give you your stroke and if you can get calipers on the piston skirt at BDC, that'll give you your bore. Pi x (bore/2)² x stroke gives you your swept volume.

Isn't it just! I'm going to knick that! 🙂 One question about the rubber band arrangements though. How effective are they in keeping the spoilers closed? From what I can see of the geometry, it seems as if they would exert very little or nor force at all to keep the spoiler closed. I think I'd have aligned the eyelets vertically, then rigged some monofil through them, attached to a horizontally tensioned band.

Our previous site had a tall hawthorn hedge at the western end. Landing in the late afternoons, the backdrop of a setting sun played havoc with depth perception. On more than one occasion, I've left a wing in the top of the hedge while the fuselage made it back to the field. 😁

I last bought it nearly 20 years ago from Pegasus Models in Norwich - and they were the only people who carried it then. It's joined the ranks of 'unobtainium' following events to which no blame can be attributed... Re alternatives, I understand 'Diacov' can be obtained with and without backing adhesive from several sources, including Sarik. No doubt someone with first hand experience will be along soon to confirm or correct suitability! 🙂

Not in my experience.

Hmm. I have an Aviation Design 1/5.5 scale Spitfire which I've been working on, on and off, for about 17 years. According to the designer, it's a quick build kit...

In Praise of Twins: (Extracted from my contribution of 21/12/23 and edited to make the bullet points more pointy...) My spec: Sleek, simple twins are best because they have less complicated airframes (e.g. Mossie 'in', Black Widow 'out') capitalise on the widespread availability of (what I call) the 'standard' sport electric set up: 11 x 5-8" prop. 35XX 900-1200kv motors, 40/60 A ESCs and 2200-3000 3S or 4S LiPos (x2) Pretty much everybody must have this kind of set up in their stash - at the lower end of the ranges I mention, it's the standard set up in the Wot 4 foam-e. (I've got several 🙂 ) No u/c. With the above gear a model can be sized large enough to have some 'presence' but is still easy to hand launch (either self or helper) and can belly land without incident. OR conversely - big enough to add retracts if you really want them If you're looking for attractive prototypes that are popular, yet not already done to death, then a practicable twin is the way to go. Top of my leaderboard: Whirlwind Beaufighter (or fort) (something like the old Flair kit) Mosquito (in 3rd 'cos it's already been 'Nijhuised' in a couple of sizes) Wildcards: Hudson Petlyakov PE2

Slow now

I'd use 3mm studding epoxied into 4mm carbon tube with 3mm clevises. I would not use those turned alloy sockets unless the threaded part was made separately from steel and the socket tapped to take it. If the socket and thread is machined 'all in one' then the threaded end will bend and/or snap. (T-shirt, etc.)

Four servicemen were undergoing a psych evaluation. They were all asked "What would you do if you found a scorpion in your tent?" Sailor: "I'd stamp on it" Soldier: "I'd crush it with my boot" Marine: "I'd rip off its sting and then eat it" Airman "I'd call room service and ask them what a tent is doing in my room..."