Martin McIntosh Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 If you mean this Martin then the answer is no, I had enough trouble with the rest of the rigging. Many broken HD wires show that the wings flex quite a lot but having fitted small springs to each they now do not break and so far neither have the wings. I think that the struts probably help a lot here. Which kit is it, the original Precedent or the later SLEC one, and what are you using to power it since 1.3kg is a hell of a lot and mine has none, built fairly standardly from the Precedent kit? It is only 6.2kg despite Solartex and epoxy coated throughout. CG is 1" in front of the upper wing TE. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 My query was to Martin U as I cant see the diagonals un the pictures of his Stampe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin U Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 Martin M it is a Precident model with a Saito 180 but 3 servos at the tail. presently with 3 mm rod but I am planning to change them to carbon fibre. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin McIntosh Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 If you mean right at the back then that is where your problem lies. Mine are as far forward as possible with a balsa push rod on elevator and pull-pull wires on the rudder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 3 servos come to about 6oz and with the placing 4 times behind c of g compared to distance in front for ballast means at least a pound of lead to balance the servo weight alone, not withstanding any additional tail weight that may need compensating from the build process. saito 180 is a few hundred grams lighter than a Laser 180 that I have in mine (which balanced slight nose heavy with no ballast) so that also would contribute to the weight needed up front. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Santovito Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 I used pull pull on the rudder and elevator, with the servos near the bottom wing hold down block. Didn't use real diagonals between the interplane struts because I set up my struts to fold against the bottom of the top wing. but I did tie some elastic thread between them. Lasted about one season. For all strut and wire attachments, I used Dubro steel clevises and .03" brass sheet fittings. that way I only have to unsnap 3 strut clevises on each side and 2 flying wire clevises on each side after bolting on the wings. here is my build thread at the page with most of the fitting pics. (along with the compartment holding the 5000 mah A123 pack) Build thread Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bert baker Posted June 6, 2020 Share Posted June 6, 2020 Had a Saito 125 Golden Knight in one and it was fine do preref to have cross bracing on the struts and do like to have flying wires Have fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stuphedd Posted June 7, 2020 Share Posted June 7, 2020 Just too wet to fly today , so made me a wrap round Pitts type silencer for the DLE ,It still needs welding . It almost fits inside the cowling, will only need a small blister . You might want to turn it upside up !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Ryan Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 Hello Folks, I'm not sure if I've asked this before but i'll ask anyway haha. Are the flying wires on these functional or not? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 No. Don’t forget that the wing struts are! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Ryan Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 Oh for sure. If the wires aren't functional it just makes it a bit easier to design a quick connection method to make at the field assembly much quicker Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted June 9, 2020 Author Share Posted June 9, 2020 I’ve used clevis links and nylon fishing trace wire. Just a simple job of unclipping everything. The “closed loop “ on the aileron was just black elastic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glenn Ryan Posted June 9, 2020 Share Posted June 9, 2020 Excellent Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin Underhill Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 The servos were just in front of the tailplane, weighing 240 gm, moving them under the pilot has reduced the ballast by ~ 400 gms Huge difference! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 It’s surprising how moving “useful “ weight can reduce the need for ballast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 Laser Jon, If you are still tuned into this thread - what size Oleo's did you use for your sprung undercarriage? Many thanks. Geoff... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cymaz Posted July 4, 2020 Author Share Posted July 4, 2020 The OD on my Oleos are15mm. I found its more important to get the compression rate and spring size correct. I used trail and error using various size springs and combinations. Ive used Flexo Springs in Bristol on a few occasions, just had what I wanted. It was £6 p & p a while back Edited By cymaz on 04/07/2020 17:01:05 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Somerville Posted July 4, 2020 Share Posted July 4, 2020 I used 169mm HKing alloys struts 60-120class. A little long but at least they were in stock (took a loong time to come). A little long but easy to cut a bit off the tops. I dismantled them and put a short length of hardwood into the oleos to shorten the travel a little but firm up the compression. Probably be better with slightly stiffer springs tbh but can’t be bothered to search for an alternative. Kudos to Cymas for his work in finding the best springs. I chopped out the axles with part of the legs supplied in the kit and used those as the angle was already set. The bottom of the oleos was drilled larger and at an angle to accommodate them. Unfortunately the axle stubs were then too short and although I cobbled a solution which worked for a while I have since made up new parts that are much better. Edited By Nick Somerville on 04/07/2020 17:50:07 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
funflyerColin Posted July 5, 2020 Share Posted July 5, 2020 Hello everyone hope you are all staying safe and well, just thought i would share this link to e-bay of a precedent stampe for sale if anyone i interested fitted with a YS 140 4st. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Precedent-Stampe-Biplane-SV4B-with-YS-140-4-Stroke/114280799430?hash=item1a9baa9cc6:g:ZXAAAOSwimRe66nI hope i have done it right. regards Colin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Hazeldine Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 Thanks to everyone who's been helping with sharing info on engine installs for the Stampe that I'm refurbing. After a close flirtation with the idea of an OS GF40 (thanks to Alan Gorham for all the info there) I've decided to go with a Laser 180 - ordered today from Jon. Jon - would you mind please posting me a link to your photos of engine baffling etc. and also to the revised u/c you've installed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martin U Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 Nice choice Adrian, I have 2 lasers and they are a delight. Saito 180 in my Stampe which is similar regarding reliability and sound. Enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 I need to take a photo of my baffles. Apparently i dont have one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geoff Gardiner Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 Are they the same Oleos that Nick used - 169mm HobbyKing jobbies? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adrian Hazeldine Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 Jon - thanks for the pictures. U/C looks good and much easier to maintain! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon H Posted July 6, 2020 Share Posted July 6, 2020 Posted by Geoff Gardiner on 06/07/2020 22:07:26: Are they the same Oleos that Nick used - 169mm HobbyKing jobbies? errr...they are silver.. I have a spare set somewhere, i will dig them out and try and find some more useful information Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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