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Warbird Replicas Spitfire LF mk IXc


Ady Hayward

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Posted by Danny Fenton on 01/05/2017 16:15:18:

A friend did a PR pink "Spitty" and it was really nice. The weathering and detail shows up really well on pink

Cheers

Danny

Danny, I'm currently completing an 18" rubber powered Mk5 kit as a PRU pink job, which is now covered in pink tissue ready to be doped, based on this example:

spitfire pr.vii (mk5) sml.jpg

Do you have any piccies of your "friend's" version? I'd like to add a small dash of detail by way of doped-on trim etc, but don't know if it had under-fuselage cameras, whether it was armed or not, etc.

Cheers

Jon

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Hi Jon, no I am afraid I don't the model was built in the early eighties from an early 1/6 Mick Reeves kit.

I recall the PR Spits had any weight removed, so no guns or armour plating. If they got into trouble I believe they had to outrun their foe.

Good luck and show us a piccy when you are done?

Cheers

Danny

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Danny, that's as I understood it, but a random search for 'Pink Spitfire' images threw up some doubt as to armament and camera positions. Different versions pictured:

spit_fr9_17.jpgPlastic kit - late version, excellent weathering detail, shows full menacing armament - the modeller's mistake?

217a r7059 (small).jpg

Early version, early in-board roundels, shows guns but no under-fuselage cameras.

az7289_2.jpg

Also early Spit, top version has no armament but shows under-fuse cameras, although (armed) camo versions include cameras as well?!

Interestingly the bubble on the port side of the bubble canopy should have a cross on it, and the port wing should have a black stripe on the upper surface of the aileron (as per the illustration in my earlier post but which none of these do): this effectively formed the viewfinder, and all the pilot had to do was line these up and press the shutter-release button!

profile_a0307.jpg

Late early version, evident gunnery, side camera (not visible as on the port side).

So I'm left little the wiser by internet searches (a research version of 'fake news'?), but I do think little red squares on the LE of each wing, whether accurate to my subject or not, will set off the pink rather nicely!

Its a VMC kit of course (and should have been up flying in circles photographing the photographers at the Indoor Nats recently but woman/kid/ex/work stuff slowed up the completion, then I stupidly took a holiday and got sick and had to pull out altogether). Here's the pink tissue being applied a bit ago:

dsc_0643.jpg

Hope this hasn't pinked out the thread too much! wink

Jon

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Problem solved!

Took the kid to his first Shuttleworth flying display yesterday (and my first in 40 years!), where I bought a comprehensive guide to Spitfires for the plastic modeller.

My exact subject had four guns in each wing and two under-fuse cameras. By no means were the PR Spits all unarmed... possibly because the guys flying them were already feeling vulnerable and willing to sacrifice a little bit of extra speed for the ability to fight their way out of trouble?

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Hi Jon, as always there will be exceptions. It is important if you want to be accurate to model a specific aircraft at a specific time. Trying to find "generic" information will not be easy.

I recently did a Piper Super Cub for indoor scale and it not only had to be accurate to the full size but a specific date. In my case the summer of 1975 for which I had several good pictures.

Cheers and happy researching

Cheers

Danny

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Chaps , here is challenge for you . Ive obviously had a few of these Spits over the years .

Some IC and some electric . Some have been smashed up and some repaired to experiment with flaps, different motors etc . However , I have often weighed my 55" fighters and marvelled at the fact that they all seem to come out at just under 6lb , I suppose that makes sense because I always brown paper and paint pretty light .

However I have realised today that one Spit which was a composite of a crashed old fuselage and a new wing weighs only 5lb 3oz !! (I kid you not ) . Now, it does not have any paint on the wings (just brown paper) and has no scoops or wheel covers . It also uses 9gram servos .

As an experiment (after the crash ) I cut the bottom off the fuz and removed almost all of the central crutch behind the cockpit and most of the nylon pushrod outers . Other than that , it is bog standard ,

Anyone managed to beat that or want to have a go ? I'm sure one of you can do better ,

Oh and by the way , Guess how it flies ??

Perfect !!

laugh

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Hats off to you Richard.

A good choice of balsa can make a great difference to the final weight, as can careful application of glues and (If used) paint. It will be a hard target to beat.

PS. You didn't fill the wing and fus with helium by any chance?wink 2

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I think in most cases

the culprit has to be the covering and finishing although the balsa can make a huge difference. One of my designs had the prototype turn out at 2lbs where I had been careful with the wood selection. The 2nd one was 5oz heavier though it did have a cruciform tail as opposed to the V-tail of the prototype and less attention to the wood selection. Both balanced ok with just Lipo position being slightly different by a few mm.


As you say the weight difference is only a small amount and with the Spitfires large wing area does make it more tolerable to such changes. I must say that the wood selection thus far has been fantastic.

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Posted by RICHARD WILLS on 28/05/2017 16:41:48:

The weight will probably creep up a bit with the scoops and paint but I think 5lb 10-12 oz is easy to do .

Mind you , I dont think an extra 1/4 pound will make much difference to the flying ,its only about 5%.

It does make you wonder where the heavy ones come from though ?

too much glue , paint ,& paranoid over reinforcing areas , that's my excuse anyway

andy

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  • 1 month later...

It would appear after seeing a few Spits finished that the routes for weight gain are most likely as Richard has stated in his last post namely: Excessive use of primer. Excessive use of paint especially if using rattle cans. Applying too much glue into the joints/ not removing surplus glues. Adding additional structure to beef up the aircraft (Remember. They are designed to fly and not to withstand crashing). Adding loads of extra detail.

It is tricky sometimes keeping things in check but well worth it in the longer term.

An up to date blog can be found here:**LINK**

Adrian

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  • 2 months later...
  • 6 months later...
Posted by RICHARD WILLS on 26/05/2017 19:47:21:

Hi Chaps , here is challenge for you . Ive obviously had a few of these Spits over the years .

Some IC and some electric . Some have been smashed up and some repaired to experiment with flaps, different motors etc . However , I have often weighed my 55" fighters and marvelled at the fact that they all seem to come out at just under 6lb , I suppose that makes sense because I always brown paper and paint pretty light .

However I have realised today that one Spit which was a composite of a crashed old fuselage and a new wing weighs only 5lb 3oz !! (I kid you not ) . Now, it does not have any paint on the wings (just brown paper) and has no scoops or wheel covers . It also uses 9gram servos .

As an experiment (after the crash ) I cut the bottom off the fuz and removed almost all of the central crutch behind the cockpit and most of the nylon pushrod outers . Other than that , it is bog standard ,

Anyone managed to beat that or want to have a go ? I'm sure one of you can do better ,

Oh and by the way , Guess how it flies ??

Perfect !!

laugh

4.94 pounds ready to fly 😎 subject to independent verification

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  • 6 months later...

Gents,

A little something I learnt from the 'Boss' on Sunday and just tried out.

When using your included instrument panel print try this...

wrap thin solder around the shank of an appropriate sized drill bit in a coil. Cut through with a scalpel by placing the said coil on a cutting surface and cutting the coil from the inside, this will prevent distortion.

Using tweezers to gently straighten and then dip in canopy glue, finally placing on your instrument dials. Allow to dry and tone down with a black felt pen.

One quick and easy 3D panel....

This is of one for a YAK I did last night...smiley

20181125_141452.jpg

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