Dickw Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 A very timely bit of information - after 6 months sitting on top of the wardrobe (the Spitfire not me!) I have just taken it down and started on the winter building season. A couple of weeks work has seen it glass/epoxy covered (added 5oz) and am now in the process of primering and rubbing down. Looking forward to fitting out the cockpits, and hope to be flying in the Spring. Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 NICE! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ace Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 DickW - looking good, nice wing seat joint. Paul - also liking the dash idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickw Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 Posted by Ace on 26/11/2018 16:10:44: DickW -...., nice wing seat joint. That is mostly down to the quality of the Warbird Relicas kit - I just assembled the bits. I must say it has been a pleasure to build, and would have been in the air this year if I hadn't decided to modify it to the 2 seater. Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul Johnson 4 Posted November 26, 2018 Share Posted November 26, 2018 This angle shows the effect off better.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted November 27, 2018 Share Posted November 27, 2018 That panel really does look excellent ,full marks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goose is the real hero Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Afternoon All, First off, big thanks to Ady and other builders on this thread - your expertise and willingness to share your knowledge on this forum has been invaluable to me as I plod through my build of the WR Spitfire. I have a fairly basic question - how has everybody attached the rear control surfaces to the inner snakes? I guess I could run the inner snake right up to the control horn but this seems to leave a lot of the flexible inner snake out of the fuselage and therefore unsupported by the outer snake. I can't quite see how others have dealt with this from trawling the pictures on here. Any thoughts would be much appreciated. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dickw Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Hi Rob By coincidence I have just been sorting out the linkages on my own WR Spitfire. The attached photo shows how I did it and it seems to work OK freely, firmly, and with correct throws. As you can see I extended the "outer" part way to the horn. Just need to finish tidying it up before starting the final paint job. Dick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goose is the real hero Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Hi Dick, Many thanks for your reply. Unfortunately I have diligently followed the kit instructions and the snake outer is now flush with the fuselage skin (see pic if I can attach it). Not sure it would now be possible to extend the outer snake now in a way that would truly provide any strength and avoid fouling the inside with glue? Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goose is the real hero Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Photos! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goose is the real hero Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Corn 1 Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 I've always ended the outer flush to the fuselage side for neatness if nothing else. I then cut the inner not much longer and thread the connecting wire into it which then runs up to the clevis on the control horn. This is naturally rigid and as the snake is fairly straight inside that section of the fuselage the wire can travel back into the outer if needed.Edited By Barney Corn 1 on 01/02/2019 17:17:03 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martian Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Posted by Barney Corn 1 on 01/02/2019 17:16:37: I've always ended the outer flush to the fuselage side for neatness if nothing else. I then cut the inner not much longer and thread the connecting wire into it which then runs up to the clevis on the control horn. This is naturally rigid and as the snake is fairly straight inside that section of the fuselage the wire can travel back into the outer if needed. Edited By Barney Corn 1 on 01/02/2019 17:17:03 +1 for this method Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 You can buy short sections, 6 inches I seem to remember, of 2mm threaded rod. Wind that into the yellow inner so its well into the fuselage, just leaving a short section to screw the clevis onto. That will support the yellow snake internally making it stronger. I seem to remember they were expensive, about £2 each but you only need one. Two if the rudder is the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goose is the real hero Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Ah, okay - I was going to ask how to buy a wire that was threaded at both ends and of the required length! I suppose another option would be to solder the clevis end? Thanks for the replies all, I will try and get hold of the threaded wire that Bucksboy mentioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Robert, I wasn't too far off, Ebay has 12" of stainless steel 2mm studding for £5. Expensive for a short, thin rod but if it sorts out the problem.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goose is the real hero Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Top man, thanks for the heads-up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McG 6969 Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Hi Robert, Some guys at eBay need to make a quick and easy profit, I guess. Please look at some 2mm carbon steel threaded rod here at Banggood with a length of 250mm at the democratic price of € 1,65... but of course you'll need a bit of patience for the 'slow boat' to cross the big pond... Cheers Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graham R Posted February 1, 2019 Share Posted February 1, 2019 Why don’t you look on the model fixings site on their fittings page. 2mm stainless steel 200mm £1.50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goose is the real hero Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 Thanks for the info guys. I am definitely going to go down this route - out of interest, are there other ways of resolving this issue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bucksboy Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 You could slide a piece of the original blue outer over the exposed yellow to support it. But this time you'd have to support this 'extra' piece of outer as it's receiving no support itself. That would mean glueing a long triangular fillet between the outer and the fuselage. From the side you'd hardly notice it and once in the air it would be impossible to spot. Of the two methods I'd prefer the long threaded steel insert into the middle of the yellow inner. The whole snake run looks nice and straight so the longest piece that will fit without causing fouling would be best. Use a power drill to grip the threaded rod to wind it in, the friction makes it hard to accomplish by hand. I hope this helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Goose is the real hero Posted February 2, 2019 Share Posted February 2, 2019 Certainly does help, thanks. I would have probably spent quite some time trying to screw it in by hand! The first method described above would probably be alright but as you say, the second option seems optimal in this case. Ill post some photos of my Spitfire should it ever be in a fit state! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RICHARD WILLS Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 Hi chaps we've got a small batch in stock at the moment , but I'm not sure when we will make any more after this batch . The world's changing , sadly . Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew exton Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 Got one of Richards motors he sells for the spitfire , what size 2 blade prop do I want to be looking at ? On 4 cells thanks in advance. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andrew exton Posted March 24, 2019 Share Posted March 24, 2019 Got one of Richards motors he sells for the spitfire , what size 2 blade prop do I want to be looking at ? On 4 cells thanks in advance. Andy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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